So I initially did some wraps previously with viscose and rayon thread. This was a while ago. I noticed then, that after I applied several coats of color preserver, the threads would "spread" apart. I found this really odd. After that I would burnish the wrap and it would go back to looking good and in order.

On other spots where the wrap did not spread with color preserver, when I applied the finish, the thread too would spread apart pretty bad.

So I went and bought Pac Bay nylon thread.

Recently, I did a butt wrap in all nylon thread, applied color preserver, waited a day and then applied the finish coat I noticed much much less (just one section of the whole rod really) but nonetheless the wraps spread apart. Now I have to say my wraps lean more towards tight. At this point I cannot pin point the cause of this.

Any ideas or if anyone has encountered this please advise.

Any thoughts is greatly appreciated.

Adrian Soto

Adrian,
From your description, it sounds like you are doing more that a simple wrap??

If so, are you suggesting that your weave pattern is changing with specific thread brands or color preserver?

Could you take a couple of pictures, post them, and point out the areas in the photo that illustrates the issue?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2019 03:30PM by roger wilson.

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Adrian,
> From your description, it sounds like you are
> doing more that a simple wrap??
>
> If so, are you suggesting that your weave pattern
> is changing with specific thread brands or color
> preserver?
>
> Could you take a couple of pictures, post them,
> and point out the areas in the photo that
> illustrates the issue?


So the wraps are in my opinion simple wraps no weave designs at all. The butt wrap is a diamond wrap. I will upload pictures here and see how you will be able to see them.

Adrian Soto Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> roger wilson Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Adrian,
> > From your description, it sounds like you are
>
> > doing more that a simple wrap??
> >
> > If so, are you suggesting that your weave
> pattern
> > is changing with specific thread brands or
> color
> > preserver?
> >
> > Could you take a couple of pictures, post them,
> > and point out the areas in the photo that
> > illustrates the issue?
>
>
> So the wraps are in my opinion simple wraps no
> weave designs at all. The butt wrap is a diamond
> wrap. I will upload pictures here and see how you
> will be able to see them.


I uploaded a picture in the gallery section under miscellaneous. I do not know if that is the correct way. Its titles wrap separation. Its unfortunate I don't know how to upload into this thread.

I guess you can see it under my username as well

On the photo page, please register with your first and last name, thanks.

My first question would be are you thinning your CP and how many coats are you using?

..............

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> On the photo page, please register with your first
> and last name, thanks.
>
> My first question would be are you thinning your
> CP and how many coats are you using?
>
> ..............

I have been registered. What I did was upload a picture while logged in and it shows under my name (TheReelShop). Thats how it lets me log in.


So in regards to the CP, I have not thinned it. I literally just finished learning after the fact. Without thinning, I apply 3 coats. It does leave a somewhat of a "haze" which clears on some parts.


I Just tried to log in now and it doesn't let me. I traced back to my history to make sure I was not losing it, and in fact my account username shows as Thereelshop. I don't know what to do now. I did upload a picture.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2019 01:02AM by Adrian Soto.

I believe what Tom means is for you to register under your REAL first and last name which is apparently Adrian Soto not the "Thereelshop" . It's in the sites "Rules & Regulations" section.

"TheReelShop" is not valid on the photo page. You have to register under your first and last name just as you do here.

You might drop back to two un-thinned coats. That should be enough. Pack the thread tight against each wind. Assuming your CP is a good and you are being careful to fully coat the thread, there shouldn't be an issues.

..............

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> "TheReelShop" is not valid on the photo page. You
> have to register under your first and last name
> just as you do here.
>
> You might drop back to two un-thinned coats. That
> should be enough. Pack the thread tight against
> each wind. Assuming your CP is a good and you are
> being careful to fully coat the thread, there
> shouldn't be an issues.
>
> ..............


Since you asked if I do any thinned coats, are thinned coats preferable? I was able to now log in to the photos page, although I never got the activation email. I do not see anywhere in order to upload a photo.

Adrian,
Now and then one will hear stories that thin their finish a bit with acetone or similar solvent.

However, I take the approach that the formulators of the products have spent years to give the very best product - right out of the container.

I mix the thread wrap finish at room temperature. I slowly mix the finish in a mixing cup using a craft stick for 2 minutes, or 120 seconds by the clock.

Then, starting at the butt section of the rod with the longest wraps, I will apply finish first at speeds of 0-75 rpm. I progress on up to the tip guide with the job to get enough finish on each part of the rod to insure complete coverage.

Then, I go back to the butt wraps and start again, with a heat gun in my hand, I will save the heat gun over the finish to thin the finish as needed and to also take care of any bubbles that might happen to still remain in the finish.

I normally do this work with the rod turning at about 20 rpm. I work from the butt of the rod to the tip of the rod.

I use Flex Coat normal finish and normally never have to apply more than 1+coat. By that I mean that as I am going over the work on the 2nd pass, if I note any areas needing more finish I will add a touch as needed to insure that I have full and uniform coverage.

After I do a final check under very bright lights with a head mounted magnifier and I am satisfied that the finish is perfect, I will either slow down the speed, or transfer the rod to a 6-10 rpm dryer for overnight drying.

In the morning, I will do one more quality check and if perfect, will pack the rod at the end of the day for shipment to the customer with no 2nd coat required. If the first 1+ coat is perfect, no need for more finish.

However, I would not be able to do this without the slight application of gentle heat as needed to insure that the finish flows perfectly and is 100% free of any bubbles or imperfections.

By only needing one coat and one drying cycle, it allows me to ship the rod in 20 hours after the first application of finish with a quality product.

Good luck

You should not thin color preserver. Full strength. Two wet coats at most.

...........

Thanks you both Roger and Tom.

I will apply that method and see how it works out for me and see how it turns out. I notice some times I have a good level finish and sometimes it just doesn't go well with me. Still working on it.

And with regard to the CP I will coat two next time.

here are links to the pictures for you to see. Hopefully anyone can see them.

[drive.google.com]

[drive.google.com]

Either thread gaps or areas that were not fully wetted with CP.

.............

I hope it's the latter because i can't see how anybody could miss gaps like that , those are huge gaps . I don't think it would be difficult to do those sections over.

herb canter Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I hope it's the latter because i can't see how
> anybody could miss gaps like that , those are huge
> gaps . I don't think it would be difficult to do
> those sections over.


Well the thing is those gaps were absent prior to applying the CP or the finish. Those gaps were visible from eye distance 3ft away. So before I applied the CP I could assure I did not have any gaps. This happened after the fact.

Well thats what i thought because i can't picture how anybody could miss those gaps , so this leaves that the CP somehow missed or didn't penetrate those areas , narrowing it down.

Your saying that the spots are just saturated with finish and no CP rather than actually “separated”?

Adrian,
To give the theory a test, cut off the wraps and guides. Clean up the blank and give it a good polish with 1000 grit paper.

Then, rewrap the guides, but use NO CP. Apply a coat or two of thread wrap finish and see how your results turn out.

You want to discover if the CP is causing the problem. Do, a couple of rods with no CP and see how it goes for you.



Take care

p.s,.
To remove the guides, just use a bit of gentle heat to soften the finish. Then, take a razor knife or blade on the guide side of the rod and cut through the thread and finish letting the blade touch only the guide foot. This will insure that you do not nick the blank with a blade. Then, peel off the guide, thread and finish. To clean up the area, use a bit of gentle heat and hold a razor blade or knife at 90 degrees to the blank and scrape the blank as needed to remove all of the finish, wraps and finish. Clean up with some very fine sanding paper and you will be good to go. Normally, it only takes about 10 minutes to strip the guides off a rod and clean it up for rewrapping.

I think they look separated but are not gaps at all in reality , there is an illusion that makes you instantly think separation when you first see it but if you peeled back the finish the threads would show no separation is what i mean . Please agree even if you don't