Thats it, ive had it.. Stupid v stands left thier mark on yet another rod, im going to upgrade the stands, or build new ones.. First things first.. Anyone have a good place to source bearings? With or without wheels... I dont want to use inline skates.. I cant find anything worth it for less then 50$/4 wheels.. I can make the wheels out of nylon at work, but i need bearings to press first.. I cant remember who it was, but someone on the board here was making custom stands that were 3d printed, they were very nice, but a bit out of my price range...

And before anyone suggest this. Ive used tape, shrink tube, thread, all eventually fail and burn, or scratch the heck out of the rod.. Lynn saw a rod first hand.. Stupid stands...

Btw, the shrink tube worked the best, until the felt got wrapped up, bound around, burned the v stand.. And that was on the 9rpm dryer over night.. Its very frustrating...

Jeremy does rod stands and they are 3d printed with bearings..... message him and see what he can do for you.

[www.facebook.com]

Anthony

Yoi can get just about any bearing you want on @#$%&. and if you are willing to wait several weeks you can get them cheap from over seas.

Because you can make the wheels yourself bearing size selection should pose no problems.

I made my wheels from Teflon rod and assembled them without bearings. I have had no problem with them.

You may want to try the nylon wheels without bearings, at 9rpm they should work fine.

Good Luck

John

Try these

[bearingsdirect.com]

Mill 5/8” centers in 2-3” diameter nylon discs, consider grooving the outer rim for an o ring and mount on s 1/4 bolt.

I’d buy a set of 8 or 12 if you,re making.

;)

I re-purposed some rollers from an old sliding glass shower door. The nylon wheels have ball bearings and the outside of the wheel is grooved to run along a rail. That groove is just the right size to accept a neoprene rubber O-ring stretched over it. They work perfectly, and they are wicked cheap!

Anthony,

Here is a picture of a dryer that I made recently from plastic wheels from a surplus store. The wheels were on a small block and tackle. I paid $2.00 for 10 wheels. There was a jar of O rings in the area as well that fit the wheels well. They were another $2.00.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

You don't need large rollers for your rod rests. These stands were made using 1 inch shower door rollers with integrated ball bearings.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

These were the first rod rests that I made using skate board ball bearings. I was using these with my full length rod lathe, so needed to be able to get a positive capture on the rod blank when spinning the blank at 3600 rpm turning down a rod grip already glued on the handle. Whereever I would have the rod rest, I would put two wraps of masking tape to avoid marking the blank. When first starting I built many many rods using these rests.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

These are the rod rests that I have used for many years to build rods. They use a skate board bearing with an X oring on the bearing and a round O ring in the groove of the X oring.
Notice that the rod rests use a cantilever design. I tried a lot of rest designs over the years and found that this design works better than any other because there is nothing under the rod in the area of the rest to prevent your rod from being in that area to wrap when the rest is close to the guide. I am no longer using these bearings and O rings, so if you would like them, you can have them for the cost of shipping. Just send me your mailing information and I will send them today.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I prefer to use smaller rollers on the rest, rather than large rollers. The large rollers impede vision as well as access to the rod when wrapping and are unnecessary as long as the top roller does a nice job of clamping the blank in place.

Take care
Roger -- hflier@comcast.net

Roger, thats is basically the idea i had in mind... I was going to try and use the stands i have, and utalize the exsisting holes punched into them from the stamping process, but... They are i think #10 holes.. Cant even get a darn 1/8 inch screw through..

I dont know why i allways try and over complicate things.. I work at a machine shop, i can kinda get metal.. I shall build stands.. And ill take you up on that offer.. Im nkt just using the stands for the dryer, my power wrapper/rod lathe has enough power that i burned up a cheap bearing from a figet spinner on a 1/4 inch mandrel.. So whoever suggested any bearing, thank you, but any doesnt work as well as i hoped

Phil Ewanicki Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I re-purposed some rollers from an old sliding
> glass shower door. The nylon wheels have ball
> bearings and the outside of the wheel is grooved
> to run along a rail. That groove is just the right
> size to accept a neoprene rubber O-ring stretched
> over it. They work perfectly, and they are wicked
> cheap!

I did the same thing as Phil and the rollers have been going strong for over 10 years. Picked the rollers and rubber "O" ring at the Hardware store at a very reasonable price.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Im going to build solid stands in the near future, right now i just need a strong bandaid.. Lol thank you all for the responses, and willingness to help...

Anthony,
All the above replies are very good. Allow me to add a few thoughts to consider from building my own power wrapper.
• At the relatively slow RPM used for most thread wrapping, ball bearings are not really required.
• The quickest, easiest and possibly cheapest route is purchasing rollers with a rounded groove in the OD designed to run on a rounded track such as Phil, Roger and Donald. I purchased mine through e#*&. Most come with ball bearings.
• Since you have the ability and lathe and if you have the desire to make your own, the Teflon John used for his rollers is an excellent material to use although PTFE can be pricey. While nylon is certainly another option, Acetal (Delrin) is known for its machinability and ability to hold close tolerances. Most plastics are inherently slippery enough to not require a ball bearing as long as they rotate on a smooth shaft = no threads. While use-specific shoulder bolts would be best, they are expensive. You can also use partially threaded bolts or screws with a proper unthreaded shoulder length and cut off the unneeded threads. Aluminum is another option. A simple slip-fit bushing of the proper sized telescoping brass tubing works extremely well.
• If a bushing is utilized, avoid similar metal-to-metal or plastic-to-plastic contact. This is especially true with stainless-to-stainless!!! Metal-to-plastic affords a very good bushing.
• O-rings made of neoprene, Buna-N, urethane and such can leave “skid marks” on the blank and also deteriorate. While the marks can be removed, they are a nuisance. Consider stepping-up-to-the-plate and purchasing silicone O-rings. Yes, they are more expensive but worth it.
• I agree 110% with Roger in not having a stand directly under the blank to afford more accessibility while wrapping. My approach is very similar to Roger’s. If you care to do so, look in the photo section under Equipment and Tools, Mark’s Wrapper.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

The only thing to use to line V stands felt! Won't mark.

Rolling friction is a tiny fraction of sliding friction. Wheels Rule!

I think what Phil Ew. was trying to say is that “ball bearings rule” and he is certainly not incorrect. My purchased nylon rollers came with ball bearings. As long as they are open or shielded, not sealed, they afford very little rotational friction for our rod wrapper applications. However, with only the load of the thread tension and low RPM involved with our wrappers, a proper bushing will perform extremely well and for a fraction of the cost, or in the case of plastic wheels, possibly eliminating the cost of a simple bushing let alone a ball bearing.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Most hobby stores that sell remote control air planes, will have all sorts of barrings in many sizes.
Can get them with plastic rimes on them that are used for landing tires with solid rubber or dense foam tires mounted on them.

While I hear you on the V stands, there is a simple solution that I have used for years on my rod dryer.

Just wrap the rod at the V with a layer or two of blue painters tape. You do have to always turn 1 direction to avoid catching the tape and unraveling it, but once you figure out the direction to apply the tape and the direction to turn your rod, it's fool proof. Then just peal of the tape when the rod has fully cured.

But if you are just looking to build something cool, and need an excuse, good luck!

I just used peel and stick foam available at craft stores for the "V" slots after i had a felt strip get all tangled up one time . I just slapped together a make do wrapper for just a few rods nothing really nice or permanent and it served the purpose. I'm sure rollers or the wheels being discussed are far better though.

A.F. Boyer sliding patio/shower door wheels. You'll see something that will give you an idea. Tell them what you have in mind.

They always hang thier head when they see me come in lynn lol.. Im 'difficult' lol always looking for something specific..

I work at a machine shop.. We do phenolic, plastics, and of coarse, metals.. I had the saw guy cut me 12 derlin disks 1/4 inch wide, grabbed 3/8 bolts, nuts, and washers that have no thread for 1/4 inch.. Gonna go to my brothers Tommorrow night grab some wood. Should get me by.. Thanks for the knock on the head mark... Drill the disks, bolt it up, gotta grab a few springs for the hold down.. And ill be in good shape for the shape im in.. Hopefully

Anthony,
Don’t sell yourself short; you were 90% of the way there! Hopefully my contribution aided the remaining 10%.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I also agree with Phil Er. concerning the use of felt to line V notches of rod supports. My curing cabinet employs simple felt-lined V notches and I have yet to scratch or even mar a rod even though it may be rotating in there for 24 hours. I also blow off the felt and fluff it up with compressed air periodically. None the less, silicone O-ringed rollers would be the best, but could not justify spending the additional money.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.