I have been building a few rods and when applying fish to one I messed up and didn't add enough hardener. I didn't realize until few hours after I applied it when I was doing another rod. It's been 2 days and it's still tacky. I am wondering what y'all would recommend I do. I assume I need to get it all off and rewrap the rod, what's the best way for cleaning it all off? Is there another options?

Thanks

Don't give up on it just yet. Is the rod in a warm place? If not put it in one for another day.

If still no joy try applying another coat of finish, this time with the correct 1 : 1 ratio and well mixed.

Hold trying to remove the original finish coat as a last resort which is maybe not going to be necessary.

Agree with Donald. Always try the toughest solution after exhausting all other possibilities.

You need to get syringes! They are not troublesome, you don't have to clean them after each use, just keep them clean and separate from each other. I have not had any curing problems since I started using them. Many years ago.

Had one last year like that, and am usually extremely careful with my mixes. After a couple days I did as Donald suggested. Put a 2nd coat on and all was well

It really depends upon how far off you mix was! If only slightly, time and warmth can help. If too far off, especially if really gooey, the only cure is removing it and that becomes tricky.. An Acetone soaked rag will work, but you must becareful with the thread wraps and the margins.

Brett,
I agree with all of the above replies. Phil is correct in that the length of time required to (hopefully) salvaging the wraps and finish is dependent on how far off the mix was. Even if not the correct ratio, the catalyst will eventually harden the resin but the end product will not be the same as if mixed properly. You will need to apply an additional coat of properly mixed finish over the present one. But first, give it one to two weeks if needed at 125-150* if possible, then recoat. Hopefully it only requires a few days. Keep us posted on the results. GOOD LUCK!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

10-4 on Mark's comment.

If the job has not been done right, it has not been done right. Do it over correctly.

When I had this happen when I was first starting, I stripped everything off of the rods except the grips and reel seat. Then, used a good cleaner to clean up the rod blank and redid the rod. Finally, finished it correctly with a proper mix.

Best wishes.

I would start over. It's so easy to do this right, that with an improper mix you're going to make a bad product, every time. Syringes work great and are too easy to use. And honestly, I've never had a mix fail. Even using 1:1 ml has worked great, so use syringes to make your measurements precise.

If it's for you, strip off everything and do it over. If it's for someone else, only put out your best work. Start the whole process over again if you have too.

I'm struggling right now with a beautiful fly rod I'm making for someone else, but the decal went wrong, and I'm trying to redo that area and make look pro. The fishing part of the rod is 100%, but the decal has to be perfect before it goes out.

The guys who are telling you to strip all wraps and do it over are right on the money.
If you put a proper mix over the mess that you have now the original mixture will PROBABLY not cure - you will end up with a "soft-boiled egg" and the guides will be poorly supported.
Herb

Brett,
In addition to using equal amounts of part A and part B, be sure to mix enough.

When doing finish work I add equal parts of part A and part B to a mixing cup and then use a craft stick to mix for 120 seconds or 2 minutes as measured on the clock.

Even if the mix looks like it is mixed in less than 120 seconds, continue to mix, and also to frequently scrape down the side of the mixing cup and off the sides of the craft stick so that 100% of the content of the cup are mixed properly.

Be safe

what,s the harm in trying a second coat..you can still strip if you have to... especially if it,s just tacky..

Ben
Double post
Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2019 05:31PM by Herb Ladenheim.

Ben,
Because the 2nd coat will cure properly - but it won't cure the finish that is under the wraps next to the blank.
That's like getting a second stool test to avoid a colonoscopy because you didn't like the results on the first - which do you believe???
Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2019 05:30PM by Herb Ladenheim.

i figured Brett checked for softness by trying to move the guides..if no movement, a second coat would give even more wrap support and protection..but on the other hand he may not want the extra epoxy and weight on the rod.

Herb, if it was my rod, i would have wiped the epoxy off as soon as i suspected a problem..the reason for that is because i always use CP to seal and protect the wraps even from a heavy alcohol wipe..Brett didn,t say but i,m sure he didn,t seal the wraps or he would have wiped of the epoxy without questions..it,s no problem to let the wraps dry after an alcohol wipe an apply a new coat of epoxy..

Herb, I'm curious about how you know the first coat will not cure properly. I'm wondering if some of the hardener of the second coat might effect a cure on the first coat. I've heard of this fix working well before and think if it were not getting the first coat to cure the bond of the guides to the blank would be so weak that someone would have mentioned it before. thanks, Mick

Thread holds the guides on, finish protects the thread. Give it another coat, if it doesn't set up to your liking, then tear it off. If it does your ahead.

IMO - misconception that threads hold guides firmly enough to use the rod to fish.
Guides can be moved quite easily without thread finish - and should to give guides a final alignment.
Once the finish is wicked into the thread it is almost impossible to move guides unless unduly stressed to destruction.
So - the finish does add a lot of support to the guides.

Michael - I have no idea if the first coat of finish will cure - or not.
But how will you know if it cures, or not, after a second coat??

Best practices dictates that the wraps be stripped and re-done.
Herb

When folks suggest this, I always thing about a home built on quick sand. Not a good final result.

As I stated in my first reply, give the improperly mixed finish an extended opportunity to cure as best it will. If it is still gooey, strip everything off and start over. If it appears to have cured adequately (good enough), apply a second, properly mixed coat and you are done. Ultimately and obviously, the best approach is to start over but at what cost? If the initial, improperly mixed batch cures enough to be tack-free, a simple second properly mixed coat will save a lot of time and frustration while retaining over 90% of its otherwise integrity. The hardener in the properly mixed second coat will basically not aid the first coat to cure, BUT the second coat will definitely chemically/molecularly bond to the first extremely well due to the first not being fully cured. The strength of any composite structure, be it the stealth bomber, a race car tub, wind energy blade or guide wrap is 98% due to the fabric employed. The purpose of the matrix (epoxy) is simply to align and hold the fibers in place and adds very little structural integrity even if strengthened with the new buzz word “nano technology”.
I am pathetically picky about everything I produce, possibly to a fault. I would definitely give the first coat of finish a chance before starting over!!!!!!!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.