When applying epoxy to my spinning guides I have trouble making a straight edge on the ring side to the blank. No problems with the foot side but when applying to the ring side and sealing the tunnel to prevent water entering, I cant seem to get a clean edge. I've tried small brushes, small model car paint dobbers with the foam tips. Running out of ideas. Should I tape the area behind the guide to get the edge or is there something I am missing. I just want that clean look. Thx all

If you are trying to get a smooth edge while the rod is turning instead turn the motor off and apply the epoxy in that area by slowly turning the rod by hand.

Have fun

John

Thx John

That does seem to work better. The micro guides seem to give me the most trouble with not alot of room to work with behind the guide. Got a build going on now with them. Gotta just be more careful I guess. I try to do it with the rod rotating as slow as possible so I can steady my hand with the other. Might have to get something to rest my hand on while applying the epoxy while using the other to rotate the rod..

Thx for your reply

I shaped the end of a mixing spatula to a triangle blunt point and apply the epoxy in the tunnels and around behind the ring by turning the rod by hand. I have also cut and shaped knitting needles for both burnishing tools and applying thread epoxy in tight places. Both the plastic and metal needles need very fine polishing to insure they do not scratch the rod. I haven't had an issue yet. I have a Dremel tool for polishing and often use jeweler's rouge for fine polishing.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

Use some sort of " block" to steady your hand and you should be able to get a clean, crisp epoxy edge as you rotate the rod while holding the brush steady.

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As Mr. Kirkman said, a "block" under the hand really helps to steady the hand for a clean and crisp line.

You can form a very nice block out of a block of EVA or other hard foam.

Try and inexpensive Yoga Block usually large enough to provide a nice stable rest for the hand,

I like the block ideas. I've seen them before but haven't tried it yet, but I think that"s the ticket. Ray, the spatula is interesting too. I should be able to make this work and thx for the great ideas.

Stan may be referring to dealing with guides that slat forward such as Fuji KL-Hs. As others have mentioned, a heavy, stable hand rest and turning by hand for the ring side of the wrap works for me as well. I tried masking early on when starting to build rods, but even with pulling the tape immediately after applying the finish to each wrap, the edge did not flow out as nicely as doing it “Hero”.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

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Stan I have had a good bit of success using stainless steel leader wire. I use somewhere around 30-60lbs tooth proof wire leader. Make a little triangle and twist together at one end, this will give you a handle. The other end I just bend real slightly, maybe 30 degrees. You can run the wire up against the edge of the thread wrap, it will drag a small bit of epoxy with it. This ideally will wet the blank around the wire thickness past the thread wrap. If you get the angle correct you can stay under the ring on small guides that tilt forward. Then you can add a bit of epoxy if needed drop by drop and it should flow to that wetted area.

I don't do this every time, but it has helped me on those small guides. I usually keep this device at the ready and use as needed. Its easy to wipe off with a paper towel and reuse.

With my wrist solidly supported, and turning by hand I apply finish with a bamboo shish-ka-bob skewer. I am not lyin'

Lynn, as an old fishing buddy would say to me- that sounds like a likely story..lol.

Mark

I am using the KL-H guides. I really like those and the ideas to help me get the edge correctly done are just what I needed. Roger thanks for the link, I am ordering those today, and Lynn, I've used those for grilling but have not tried them for rod building........yet lol

Thanks all!

Two shots of whisky, works every time. Also a a fly tying Bodkin (large needle with a handle) helps with the tunnels.

I get a solid edge with the brush, but obviously that skips over the tunnels. Once I have the nice edge around the rest of the blank, I stop turning and put the guides at a 90 degree angle to the floor. I take a toothpick with some epoxy on it and drag from where the edge stopped to the tunnel. I then fill the tunnel with epoxy. Rotate the rod 180 degrees and do it again. Push the thread a little with the tooth pick so that the air bubble comes out now instead of getting trapped trying to get out when the epoxy is almost dry. Ask me how I know about that last step lol

Another solution will be to extend the wrap to the other side of the ring. Aesthetically will give a better look to the rod and its the end of this kind of problems.
I do it this way. Going to post a photo in here with an example.

Lance, I like the whiskey idea, maybe 2 before and 2 after.

Seth, I've tried the toothpick before, may have to revisit that, thx

Nuno, I've done the locking wraps with the Kt guides on casting rods, may have to do it on a spinning rod,

I'll first apply the epoxy to cover the threads without trying much to go beyond the edge on that side. Then I'll use a #0 artist brush to run epoxy just outside the thread edge and along the tunnels. It slows me down a bit but I'm usually in no hurry.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI