I'm interested in a Liberty blank for a custom drop shot rod but what I'm looking for is a 7' Medium X-Fast blank rated up to 1/2 oz, sometimes 5/8 oz. I've looked at the DS700 but it's only rated up to 5/16 which isn't enough for my specific application. I do however see they offer a 7'6" spin jig model (#SJ763-USA) which is Medium X-Fast rated up to 5/8oz. If I were to remove approximately 4-6" off the butt section, what will the affects be? Thank you!

Talk to Kevin, he's very helpful.

I (and I know I am not alone) have trimmed enough blanks to get a notion on how the blank will behave after cutting it.

You could do what is called a “SWAG” (SCIENTIFIC WILD A$$ GUESS) that is cut the blank assemble the rod and hope for the best (not recommended), or you could hedge your bet and try to predict the results of trimming the blank without actually cutting it.
If you want to see the effects of cutting from the butt make a temporary assembly (taping on the guides) and mount the grip (temporary) where you would like it to be and fish, cast or drag weights along the grass. If you want to see what happens if you cut from the tip, tape a guide where you would like the tip to be and use the guide as the tip then fish, cast or drag weights along the grass. Try different combinations until you are satisfied with the results.record the positions of the components and complete the rod.

It will involve some effort and trial and error, but in the end there will be no surprises. It may be that cutting some from each end may do the trick.

The least impact on the blank is trimming from the butt end.

Have fun
John

Try the blank as it comes, I've seen dropshot rods get longer over the years, so when I had a chance to try a 7 1/2 ft. blank made by Lamiglas I gave it a shot. I really like it just the way it is, it also is a great finesse small mouth rod.

Even for the hobby builder it is possible to build a CCS testing rig that doesn't require all the space of the 4 x 8 sheet of plywood (although that is the best, easiest to use setup), then he can test exactly what shortening the rod will do. Without actually shortening it. Just make the proposed shortened point the rear support point if shortening from the butt, or hang the weight wherever you want near the tip by attaching a guide there.

He can keep records of all the rods he builds and will be in a good position to build new rods that accurately meet his needs based on past experience with rods and correlating to his CCS numbers.

Another thing that would help making this decision is to get the long blank and tape guides/reel seat to it as if it's shortened from the butt and try it out. I would never trim any blank from the tip. It just seems to wreck the action every time.

But if a builder, even a hobby builder, plans on building for a while, he should take the time to build a CCS rig and learn to use it.

Talk to Kevin, he's a builder first, and they're his blanks.

I would order the blank because it's close enough to what you want to most likely work as is or as shortened. Mount the reel seat (with tape) where you would if the blank were shorter, put guides on with tape, and try it out.

Then move the seat back to where it would be if the blank were untrimmed, move the reduction train and a runner or two , and try it again.

Does either meet your expectations? If yes, build. If not, keep it for a future project and keep looking.

I believe either configuration will work just fine.

I would order the blank because it's close enough to what you want to most likely work as is or as shortened. Mount the reel seat (with tape) where you would if the blank were shorter, put guides on with tape, and try it out.

Then move the seat back to where it would be if the blank were untrimmed, move the reduction train and a runner or two , and try it again.

Does either meet your expectations? If yes, build. If not, keep it for a future project and keep looking.

I believe either configuration will work just fine.