‘Morning all.

I just received a 9wt Sage Salt HD blank for a build. Does anyone have advice on how to remove the silk screened logo on the blank? They are never in the right place and often off axis to the spine I want to use (not that it matters that much in a butt section)

I recently did a Sage Mod and the black ink used in the logo came off with acetone in a wile or three. For a Sage X which I did at the same time, the white or gray ink (like the Salt) only shifted a little with acetone, so I used a little more “vigor” in attacking it. By the time I got it off, I’d started to soften the rod finish and had one or two small dropouts, in the gloss coat on the rod. . As it turned out, I wasn’t able to loose the marks behind wraps or a feather inlay and keep the spine I wanted so I first scuffed the entire area to hide the Mark. Of course, I sanded through the color level in trying to de gloss the area so just sanded the finish off and let the carbon base be exposed. It ended up looking great, the X series are finished in a black spruce color and the carbon gray under the finish has a sparkle.

With the Salt project, if I can’t get the logo off, I can sand the area down. But, that’s not what I’d like to do. Does anyone have guidance on how to approach removing the brand mark?

David

Sage does not build or recommend building their rods on the spine

Their logo is most likely along the straightest axis and is screen printed so it can be difficult to remove with common solvents. It is important to remember that in order to keep the Sage warranty intact, you may be required to have that logo remain on the blank. Contact them to make sure. If so, then you might be better off to just wrap over it with some sort of short decorative, signature wrap or feather inlay, etc.

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Ron,

Why does sage no recommend building on the spine? I know they include an alignment dot on their blank and have recommended guide spacing, but I never saw where they state to not build on the spine.

Most companies build on the straightest axis, both for cosmetic purposes and to maximize blank deadlift strength. See the article on blank strength in the online library here.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I am not aware that Sage has anything in their catalog or on their website stating specifically not to build on the spine, however.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2019 08:16PM by Tom Kirkman.

The Sage alignment dots are normally on the straightest axis not the spine.

I spoke to Jerry Siem a few years ago about building on the spine:
"Build on the spine if possible - if not build on straightest axis. The lower two sections not important. The top 2 sections - especially the tip section - most important to spine - if possible".

Re question - consider the warranty.
Herb
CTS

The dead lift article is nearly irrelevant to me if the question is building on or opposite spine as I use both when casting and back casting. The issue is when the straight axis is not at 180 or 0 degrees but 45 or 90 degrees to the spine. An un-lined rod being straight is how I would see it in a store. On a river or the water, it would be weighted by a line and sagging in a direction. Unweighted straightness is a factor that makes it easy to sell a rod by pointinting to an observable but irrelevant factor. The stiffness of the spine gives the rod energy and life.

On a 4 piece, the spine of the butt section probably contributes less to the overall feel, but it is observable in a roll test and the logo more or less locks you into a design viz the length or seat/butt/grip complex that I want control over.

And, yes, Sage marks the straight path and suggests you build along it on their website but not on any material provided with a blank.

So, no experience by anyone with removing the logo silkscreen?

Herb Ladenheim Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I spoke to Jerry Siem a few years ago about
> building on the spine:
> "Build on the spine if possible - if not build on
> straightest axis. The lower two sections not
> important. The top 2 sections - especially the
> tip section - most important to spine - if
> possible".
>
> Re question - consider the warranty.
> Herb
> CTS
Agree on the spine and importance of the top vs the bottom. I’m not very concerned about the warranty, Sage is a great company, if there is a manufacturing issue I believe they will make it right. If I introduce an error, so be it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2019 11:53PM by David MacDonald.

The spine and the straightest axis are not necessarily 180 degrees opposite each other.

Deadlight capacity is rarely an issue on the backcast where loads will never come close to reaching that limit. In fish fighting, however, having the most powerful axis of the blank in play can be important.

The solvent required to remove the silkscreen painted Sage logo is the same solvent that will remove the paint on the blank. It's not easy to remove that logo.

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The spine and the straightest axis are not
> necessarily 180 degrees opposite each other.
>
> Deadlight capacity is rarely an issue on the
> backcast where loads will never come close to
> reaching that limit. In fish fighting, however,
> having the most powerful axis of the blank in play
> can be important.
>
> The solvent required to remove the silkscreen
> painted Sage logo is the same solvent that will
> remove the paint on the blank. It's not easy to
> remove that logo.
>
> ...............

Thanks Tom, I’ll reach out to Sage and experiment a bit

I thought I'd follow up and report on this.

The recommendation from an other builder was "paint thinner, a soft cloth and some rubbing. So I wetted an old piece of shirt and rubbed the heck out of the end of the blank that would be under the cork as a test. The thinner, naptha in my case, didn't do anything to the finish, even after rubbing in some heat. So, I went to work on the logo itself and the grayish paint seemed slowly to dissolve, slowly. I gave this a little while and decided to up the chemistry so, using a q-tip soaked in acetone, i did an art-restorer's roll on the heavily painted bits (like the letters in SAGE) and it lifted or shifted the material so I wend back to the naptha and some rubbing. Judicious use of the acetone and the naptha got it off in 10 minutes. At one point I was concerned that I was loosing color on the blank, but I gave it a good polishing in a dry cloth and looks good. There is some ghosting of the old logo and I'll see if it can polish out or fade in sunlight. Because the blank is an inky blue/black, none of this will photo so you'll have to take my word for it.

DDM

Thanks for the update.

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