I have a Rainshadow eternity 8wt on it's way. What size seat should I use with a fighting butt?

Mark

No standardization for fly rod reel seat sizes. Ideally, the reel seat hardware and barrel ID will be a bit larger than the butt' OD. If not (and it's usually only a problem for glass rods), you will need to cut the butt section and add a stint.

With regard to seat OD and length, many manufactures and retailers include in their product descriptions a rod line weight or line weight range for which the seat is suitable.

For an 8 weight that might see use in the salt, check out the REC RSLS seat which is compatible with the salt and accepts a REC fighting butt.

Mark

No standardization for fly rod reel seat sizes. Ideally, the reel seat hardware and barrel ID will be a bit larger than the butt' OD. If not (and it's usually only a problem for glass rods), you will need to cut the butt section and add a stint.

With regard to seat OD and length, many manufactures and retailers include in their product descriptions a rod line weight or line weight range for which the seat is suitable.

For an 8 weight that might see use in the salt, check out the REC RSLS seat which is compatible with the salt and accepts a REC fighting butt.

Mark,
I also favor the REC hardware. But I think the RSLL is a better fit for most reel feet. Also - the REC foam bushings frequently have bores that are not symmetrical. So I us the RSLL and Flexcoat bushings bushings in 15.5mm.
If you are going to use a pre-made fighting butt - REC hardware is easy to use. Just don't forget to leave a full 1/2" inside the rear of the seat to accept the fighting butt hardware.
That will increase the overall length of your rod by 1.5 - 2.0".
That's why I like to build the FB directly on the blank. You can safely trim an inch or so off the butt of the blank if you want to stay at 9'0".
Regards,
Herb
CTS

R-CAH LXL2 Fly Seat by Alps. Takes a fighting butt easily. Looks great on that blank.

So Herb, you just build the fighting butt on the blank and do not use a detachable or add on? Is there a benefit for a detachable?

As far as I am concerned - no benefit. But the REC FB can be epoxied in place. I like to use the same cork rings for the FB as I did with the grip so everything matches.
Are you going to build your own grip??? If yes - you should also build the FB
Herb

My experience is removal fighting butts and / or butt caps for when you remove the fighting butt disappear sooner, or later.

The detachable is necessary if you ever intend to fish the rod without a fighting butt. It also allows you to use a standard length rod tube without having to cut the blank length. Some like them, some do not! Personal choice.

I see no benefit to a removable fighting butt. With 4 piece rods they are short enough, and I know if it were removable, I'd lose it. Spence and I could look for them together.

I have an old REC fighting butt which is permanently mounted to the rod and features an extension which unscrews to extend the butt cap and provide increased leverage. I looked at the current REC online catalog and couldn't identify this feature in their current products. Did I miss it?

Mark,
Batson makes rod building recipes for many of their rod blanks - particularly the newer models.

In your case, here is the link to the rod blank in question, i.e. the ETEF908-4 --- which is an Eternity 8 weight, 4 piece fly fishing rod blank.

[www.batsonenterprises.com]

When this page opens, scroll down the page until you get to the recipe for your blanks.

To answer your question -
Batson specifies a CCFB-2 fighting butt which is a 1.375 butt.
Furthermore they specify a { R-(TR) - WTS - SG } ---- reel seat.

To find the Blue Prints for Batson rod blanks, go to the Rainshadow blank page with the series blanks that you care checking. Then, go midway down on the right side of the screen, you will find an index tab labeled Blue Prints. Click on this tab, and then when the tab opens, scroll down to the blank on which you need the building information.

I had a nice chat with Mr. Batson about this page and its links.

Take care

Just about any reel seat will work so in my opinion you want aesthetics and then consider the weight. What looks good, is functional without failure and how much does it weight. On an 8 wt, I like a fighting butt and like many have said what is the purpose of being able to remove it. I used to just use Struble seats because that is what all the nice rods seem to have and they were fairly light and very functional. Now I look to REC for a simpler build and I have been using quite a few of the Alps seats especially the HERA7WL2, they really look good and are light compared to many of the other ones. Alps really has some nice fly reel seats and they have made it a point to produce some very unique and quality machined aluminum reel seats in general. American Tackle has some unique designs also for fly reel seats. Sorry to give so many choices but I haven't even mentioned the harder to find brands like Sea Guide. It is really going to be your preference, there are some really good choices now.