I'm a beginner rod builder. Have built a handful of ultralight trout rods. I'm working on my first flyrod. 7'6" 3 wt. 4 peice. Mhx native series. For guides I'm going 9 plus tip top. 8, 3, then 1/0 to the tip, does this sound about right or should I go 2/0 to the tip. Thanks for any input, Tim.

Tim

By 8 I assume you meant 8 mm, which is OK.

I do not skip two (2) guide sizes, and 8 mm stripper followed by a size 2 snake then 1/0s to the tip top is an option.

A better option would be a low frame 8 mm stripper followed by a size 1 snake then 2/0s to the tip top.

Some think fewer and larger guides work better and others opt for more and smaller guides.

My thinking is so long as the static load test is OK there is little difference between 8 vs 9 guides. For a 3 weight rod i'd be sorely tempted to use size 2/0 snakes PROVIDED I knew the owner and that his or her line to leader knots doubled back over the line would easily pass thru the 2/0 snakes, else I'd use 1/0s.

Why not single foot wire guides for min weight and why worry about knots through the guides, just keep the knot out of the guides? Certainly not a big deal, but just wondering.

My recommendation is the 8mm stripper followed by all single foot light wire guides that will pass your line to leader knot all the way to the tip top. It is a small light rod......keep it light!

Michael

You are correct that knots ought not be in the guides while fishing. It can be a formula for disaster.

I was referring to passing the line to leader knot, doubled over the line, when rigging the rod and not when fishing the rod. It's not as much an issue these days with loop to loop connections. Nail knots can be a problem.

I am using single foot snakes, with a Fuji LN stripper. I have purchased the snakes in multi sizes. Pac bay brand. I prefer the smaller ones and just wanted some imput. Also have the standard tip top. I jumped in deep on this one as I am in the process of building the grip from birch. The blank is the brook trout finish and my wraps will be white, black, and orange. This build is for a good friend of mine and will be used mainly for mountain stream natives, thus the theme. I may even attempt a small feather inlay on the butt. Oh boy.

A little confusing Tim! Single foot and snake are not the same.

I stand corrected, Phil. I am referring to single foot wire guides.

LOOK at "" Snake brand "" guides universal the foot is bent to the blank [ contour ] an the feet are some of the best finished on the market, a little more $$ but not bad

William Sidney
AK

The leader-to-line connection usually ends up in the guide train when a fish is being landed. Even a modest-size fish will pop the 6X tippet commonly used with 3 wt. rods if a knot encounters any obstruction. A snake guide with the same nominal opening as a single foot guide will allow a larger knot or line loop to pass because of the geometry of the snake guide, and snake guides are less prone to catching on branches, etc. Before you assume a single-foot guide train will save weight you might measure or research the weight of a set of single-foot guides versus the weight of a set of (smaller) snake guides.

It is not just the weight of the guide! There is also the weight of an additional wrap and epoxy.. Additionally, he already has the guides as he states above.

Keeping the line from slapping against the rod helps with feeding line during casting. My experience is that your guide setup is a bit too small even for a 3 wt. I would use at least a 10 mm stripper and would not use the 1/0 or 2/0 snakes at the top. A very light tip top is a good thing to use. A good thing about larger guides on a fly rod is that they let the line hang a bit further from the rod. I personally use single foots for the top few guides on a flared even if I use double foot snakes the rest of the way down., I also think that a short light rod needs to be able to pass the leader connection easily through the guides.