Hi Guy's, I am about to build a 37kg stand up rod that is 5foot 6 inches long. I am not wanting to go rollers all the way but may consider a roller tip. If I use ceremic guides and tip I will have to use a 12mm tip as the tip is 5.5mm in diameter. Was looking at 20,16,12,12,10,10 then tip. Because I have to use a 12 tip do I still use the 10's or do I just use all 12's? I don't use windon leaders or have bulky knots to pass. Biggest knot would be a plaited double knot in 80lb mono. Reel is a shimano tyrnos 50 2speed.Has anyone had experience with alps rx roller tips? Any advice greatly appreciated.
Tight lines Scott.

Scott,
I have had the same issue but on a smaller scale. The vintage FG Conolon blanks I love to build, mostly freshwater, inherently have larger diameter tips than modern CF equivalents and obviously require larger tip top tube diameters and consequently larger ring sizes. I have reserved myself to accepting running guides the same size as the tip top, even if larger than preferred. Smaller runners than the tip top kind of defeat the purpose except from a possibly a weight standpoint. I am curious as to what the veterans have to say. It is a different ball game if rollers are employed.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Cheers Mark, that's what I was leaning towards. Just running all 12's then the 12 tip. Also wonder if should step up to a 25 for the stripper when using a 50 size reel. I am only a beginner still and could use some advice from some with far more knowledge then I.
Tight lines Scott

You might want you reel on your rod and space out the first guide. I am not an expert, however I was told it should be as level as possible from reel spool to fist guide. Tape on remaining guides lock down drag and and pull tip to the ground. That is how I build my shark rods for pier fishing to lift 100lb sharks up for roping. I use Aftco tips.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2019 09:04AM by Greg M. Ray.

Scott,
First of all, I have never built an 80lb rod and hopefully others who have will chime in. If you have not read the reprinted article, “Stand-Up Trolling Rods” in Volume 21-Issue 3 of Rod Maker Magazine, you owe it to yourself to obtain a copy. Apparently that article made the original issue the most popular in the magazine’s history. And rightfully so as virtually every aspect of stand-up rods was covered in depth down to and including building the rod to conform to the specific fighting harness to be used.
That being said, I am curious as to why you prefer ring guides over rollers. It appears the majority of builders employ rollers on rods 50# and up while virtually all rods 80# and above utilize rollers. If you are @#$%&-bent on ring guides, at the very least exploit the benefits of spiral wrapping the guides!
I am also interested in what more qualified members have to say.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Greg,
You must use incredibly strong tape! The method of static loading the blank you mentioned does not allow the blank to bend as it would in its natural, naked state. Consider using a suitable string secured to the tip of the rod and loading that string while running a separate, light weight thread from the reel, through the guides and tip top with a minimal amount of weight, just enough to straighten the thread. This will accomplish placing the guides to evenly distribute stress on the blank rather than introducing unnatural stress to the blank while static loading the blank for guide placement.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks for the input guy's. This is only my 2nd complete build and not really planned or budgeted for. Took my sons mate out for a shark fish and the shimano backbone rod we were using got broken when I had to dump the leader on a 6foot bully. Not sure if the leader wrapped around the tip or whether the angler had the rod tip up to high. Only ever broken 2 rods fishing and both of them backbones. First one was 15 years ago when I reached out to grab the leader whilst having the rod as well on a 7foot shovel nose shark. My fault.Want to try to keep costs down as much as possible so that's the main reason for choosing ceramics. Have decided to use a roller tip either aftco or alps rx. My first build was a 15kg stand up rod and when static testing the guides I put the rod under a fair load and all of the guide slipped to the underside of the rod. Scratched the blank but luckily the guides were in the correct position so no biggy.After that I tied some light cord to the tip and used that technique to load the blank. That was a big sign for me as to the benifits of a spiral wrapped rod. I do have a copy of the magazine with the stand up article and it is full of great info. Some time down the track I would like to build a spiral wrapped rod. Here in Australia I have never seen one. One day I would like to build a bent butt 37kg with full rollers but for now it's ceramics and a roller tip.
Tight lines Scott

So I guess the question that I need help with is if using ring guides on a 37kg rod would you use 12 or 10 as the smallest guide? The shimano backbone that broke used size 10 as the smallest.
Scott

Scott,
If the smallest ring / tube size available of the tip top for the blank you are using is a 12-5.5mm, then use size 12 runners. As I mentioned earlier, smaller runners could be employed but may defeat the purpose and also may look a tad odd. Besides, on an 80lb rod, tip weight is certainly not of the upmost importance. Build it, fish it, enjoy it, and learn from it!!!
I am surprised if not mildly disappointed the heavy-hitters have not chimed in.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark, have decided to go with a roller tip. A 14 should just fit over or may have to sand or scrape paint off to fit it on.
Cheers Scott