Mark, one thing I would add; you should terminate or trim the ends of your grip with something that is a little more solid than the birch bark (as in wood, acrylic or cork). It seems that the bark is a little spongy and I'm afraid that it may have a tendency to chip, separate or de-laminate on an exposed end.

Mark B.,
Thanks for the advice. I have learned the same thing from a number of other sources including the article in RM so it must be true and I will certainly address the issue while fabricating. Being a composite guy, I am considering laminating two plies of 8oz FG cloth, which will not be seen once saturated with epoxy, on the end pieces to counter the tendency of the rings delaminating. But then, I may decide to employ contrasting, more solid end pieces as most do. I am uncertain at this point.
If anyone is still following this topic, do you have a phone number for Custom Fly Grips? Their website does not include a phone number and I am having difficulty emailing them due to the need to update my browser.
Also, having no experience with birch bark, what percentage of rings can I expect to have to reject due to cosmetic or structural issues and imperfections? This includes having to avoid bad areas in the sheet as well. If, in a perfect world, I can get 64 rings per square foot, how many can I expect to get in the real world you and I live in; 60, 50, 40, 30? I would prefer avoiding the need to place a second order but at the same time do not want to end up knee-deep in excess birch bark rings either.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

An extra sheet of bark is $10. Buy 2 extra sheets just because it's only $10.

In my experience, you will get somewhere slightly over 50% of very good rings from a sheet, This is of course my experience with my supplier which you know, other suppliers may be give you more or less. The sheets of bark often have areas that are too rough or pocked to use.

If you have the opportunity to talk with your supplier, advise them of you application and preferences. I have found John at Bark Canoe helpful.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2019 12:49PM by Phil Erickson.

Phil,
I am having difficulty sending you something to your posted email address.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark, my listed address is correct. If you are typing it, some often forget the k. Here is a link philerick@sbcglobal.net

I know I'm a bit late to this discussion (new to the site, but wish I had found it years ago!), but I prefer Minwax Tung Oil Finish for my birch bark and cottonwood bark handles. It isn't 100% Tung oil, but it has always served me well on the stocks of my trap shotguns, and I've now used it on over a dozen birch bark and cottonwood bark fly rod handles. When I get some good photos I'll post some on this site. I use 5 or 6 coats of Tung Oil, with one or two days rest in between coats. Also, before I hit them with additional coats (after the first coat), I spin them in the lathe with 3000 grit sandpaper between coats. By the time I'm 5 or 6 coats into the process. the handle looks beautiful and is smooth as silk. Anytime the handles appear to need a touch-up, all it takes is a quick wipe with Tung Oil and they are as good as new again.

Mark

One of the "secrets" to using TruOil is to allow each application to throughly dry before applying another, else you make a mess.

I made birch bark grips long ago and abandoned them in favor of faux birch bark grips made from 1/8" cork, which is much easier to glue up and turn to shape, and with a bit of wood stain and colored glue is (to my eye) just as attractive as the real thing.

Good luck.

Hi Donald, I agree. As I do when I use Tung Oil Finish on my shotgun stock, I usually wait a day or two between applications. I also buff the wood between applications, first at about 5 minutes after saturating, then an hour, and again a day or two later. Buffing is much easier with the fly rod handles because I can put the spindle in the lathe and buff it at a low speed (although I think a high speed would be fine too). Hand buffing is very easily accomplished... just buff until it isn't "sticky".
One thing I also do, but probably isn't necessary, is my first coat or two I dilute the Tung Oil Finish with about 25% mineral spirits for a deeper penetration. Then I follow up with 5, 6, sometimes 7 applications of 100% Tung Oil Finish. You will know when it doesn't get any better between coats. When I need to re-finish annually (both my shotgun stock or my fly rod handle) I usually give a quick wipe with mineral spirits to remove soil/debris/oil, wait an hour or two. and then apply a couple of coats of 100% Tung Oil Finish with buffing in between coats. It has worked great for me for 20+ years with my shotgun and a few years with my fly rod handles (I've only been turning birch bark handles for a few years for family and friends). But like so many things, "to each their own". My trap shooting buddies swear by several "ideal" preservations/restorations and they all seem to work just fine. BTY I probably turn 5 or 6 times as many cork handles as I do birch or cottonwood bark (I only build for "friends and family, so I only build a dozen or so a year, and never make a dime... I consider it "therapy" rather than "income"), so I have no problems with cork. But for those who venture into birch bark, you will find some very appreciative fans. And a LOT of equally effective treatments/coatings. Tight lines to all.