Jim,
No need to go up and down the rod. Have the reverse switch on a cord so that the switch on the cord goes with you up and down the rod for convenience.

Again, the advantage of using a reversible dc gear motor go be able to give you the speed control and the reversibility that folks like to have.

One example of a dc conversion power unit for a power wrapper.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Note the white cord with the black box on the end. This is the reversing switch that goes with the wrapper as he/she moves up and down the rod.

Best wishes

Jim... Rogers power wrapper is run by a DC motor and therefore he can run it at any speed and has the ability to run it in reverse. Correct me if I am wrong Roger.

Tom,
That is correct.
Power supply, speed controller, motor. Pedal to control to speed of the speed controller and a reversing switch in the wiring between the speed controller and the motor.

Be safe

Sounds like this is one of Rogers custom setups that does not come with most rod wrappers available for purchase today as a stock unit , if all the people who commented about having power wrappers but still preferring to wrap by hand had Rogers setup maybe they would all prefer to wrap under power .

Herb,
From my very first attempt at building a power wrapper, I was concerned about sub 10 rpm rod speed and control.

Lots of different ways to achieve this control. But over the course of many different builds, the dc gear motor and speed controller has been the best solution.

Be safe

I do a little of both. Obviously for decorative wraps, a lot are done by hand. Normally I start the wrap by hand and transition to power, then back to hand if i need to do quick trim bands etc. Took a little getting used to, but now it's turned into second nature. Whats important is dialing the pedal so you have really good control over what you're doing.

What I am gathering here is that maybe there is not a single wrapper out there that allows the scope of control offered by aftermarket modifications. MANY guys who wrap by hand would opt for a set-up with unlimited speed control and a reversing feature - and the FAST guys could just dial it up using the same unit. Why is this so hard??

Jim Ising Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What I am gathering here is that maybe there is
> not a single wrapper out there that allows the
> scope of control offered by aftermarket
> modifications. MANY guys who wrap by hand would
> opt for a set-up with unlimited speed control and
> a reversing feature - and the FAST guys could just
> dial it up using the same unit. Why is this so hard


What I don't understand is that AT, Pac Bay, CRB and Alps monitor these posts and see why we want, so why couldn't they offer a DC version on their wrappers. And a retro fit units already sold? Might be a good question for all of us to ask at the rod expo. I've always wanted a12 inch extension for mine and been told to buy the long version and just cut it off. RIGHT????

Roger Wilson do you sell your setup?

i think power takes the fun out of making a fishing rod..it,s like brushing your teeth with an electric tooth brush..lol. enjoy the process..

I am like Jim too. I do not think that there is any wrapper offered such as Roger speaks of and this isn’t near the first time I have read of Rogers setup either.

Batson, AT, CPW, PB etc could or should listen to their customers or either offer a retrofit to upgrade the already thousands of wrappers out there. I know that I would be interesting in it.

Bill you hear us? This could be the potential for a great marketing upgrade to help many in this craft.

Yes, Roger have you thought about doing this or getting a pot together for the masses?

Art,
A link to a video that I made a few years ago.

[www.amazon.com]

This is a generic head stock made of ball bearings and a block of wood, connected to a pittman DC motor vial round belt.

Notice the ability to go from hand to foot control as well as the ability to have a reverse switch on the end of a cord so that one can go up and down the rod and have the reverse ability at hand.

Best wishes

Impressive there! Thanks Roger

Roger, that is a pretty neat seat up you made in that video. I'm wondering if you could incorporate a foot switch in place of the directional change box.

Something like this [thmarinesupplies.com]


I would think it would add some convenience

Roger, I really like that DC Motor set up. Could you give the motor, foot pedal and and switch information . That you have in the video at www.amazon.com.
I think It's time to upgrade mine.

The specifications are like this:

1- 24v power supply - at least 1 amp
1-24v dc gear motor - choose your desired final speed. Any thing from about 100-1000 rpm work fine. If you want to do drying as well as wrapping, then choose a motor that is closer to 100 rpm than 1000 rpm. A nice compromise is somewhere between 200 and 600 rpm. This assumes that you are uing 1:1 pulley ratios. If you use a pulley ratio other than 1:1, you can use a different speed as needed. Bottom line - a chuck speed that goes from 0-at least 100 rpm does a nice job of both wrapping drying.
A chuck speed of 0-800 rpm, but is a touch fast for drying because it will not really slow down much slower than about 20 rpm.
1-Head stock. Your choice of head stock bearing set up and chuck to use on your setup. There are many to choose from as well as one you make yourself. I prefer using 2-1/2 inch bearings along with a 1/2 inch keyless chuck with a straight 1/2 inch shank on the end of the chuck to insert into the bearings. Then, when using the wrapper, I either use the 1/2 inch chuck with a piece of solid tapered stock into the butt of the rod blank - if you do not have a butt cap on the rod, or I use a 1/2 inch shank with a 3/4" x16 tpi which will allow you to screw on a 2-inch taig chuck.

1-DC motor speed controller with at least a 24 volt 1 amp rating and a speed range of 0-100% . It is most important to select a speed range of 0-100%. There are a bunch of speed controllers that are sold with a speed range of 5% -95%. You don't want to choose one of these because you will not be able to stop the motor if the speed control is turned all of the way down.

Finally, the pedal --

As Willie Wonka said in the move in the chocolate factory. Always a problem with the desert - as evidenced by the little girl eating blueberry desert and then blowing up and turning blue.

The pedal is about the most expensive part of the unit to set up and get to work correctly. The typical speed control uses a variable potentiometer that ranges from 0-10K oir from 0-100K, depending on the design and vendor. So, to use a pedal, you remove the potentiometer from the speed control and replace it with a potentiometer of the same range but have it located in the foot pedal. But, the difficult part of the equation is to have a pedal that will give full range of movement for a 0-10K or for a 0-100K potentiometer.

There are some commercial pedals on the market that will work with no variation. The easiest one to source is the one made by Line Master. It is called the Varior pedal. It is an all steel pedal with a rack and pinon drive to turn a 5K pot, or a 100K pot as needed through its full range of movement.

Another option is to use a Guitar band foot pedal that has a rack and pinion drive in the pedal. Buy the pedal, gut it out except for the rack. Remove the potentiometer that has an audio taper and will not work and remove the gear from the potentiometer shaft. Then, obtain a long 1/4 inch shaft potentiometer with a linear taper in either the necessary 10K value or the 100K value. Then, modify the shaft of the new potentiometer to fit the gear which slips onto the shaft. Finally reassemble the pedal using a 3-conductor cable to get to the speed controller - 3 pins.

Another possibility for a pedal is to find a pedal with a linear pedal and a lever movement to allow for the full range of movement of the potentiometer that will need to be the correct value to match the needs of the speed controller.

Unfortunately, I have never found an inexpensive solution for the foot pedal that is easy to obtain and works for this application.

Finally, it is nice to have reverse n the motor. With a conventional brush style DC motor, the motor can be reversed by simply reversing the + and - voltage on the motor. One can reverse the voltage polarity by using a doubloe pole double throw switch in a cross wired configuration.

Finally box it all up and use it.

If only building one unit, one is likely to have $200-$400 in the completed unit by the time that all of the bills are paid and everything is working perfectly.

But, if you do it right, you will have great results and will be able to use it for many many years.

Take care

Thanks Roger, I'll look into it

Just FWIW , Roger has talked about his specific setups and given links on not only what to buy but where to buy the things he uses multiple times over the last year alone and it's very detailed information about how to go about changing over to a DC motor , wiring, speed control you name it Roger covers it . I could only imagine how much detailed info he has contributed over the years he's been a member on this site , the archives are jam packed with more high tech Roger Wilson contraptions than any human being could possible absorb over a lifetime.

Use the "Search" function at your own risk.

Herb,
10-4. Thanks much

I just like to help if I can.

Be safe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2019 09:52PM by roger wilson.

herb canter Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Just FWIW , Roger has talked about his specific
> setups and given links on not only what to buy but
> where to buy the things he uses multiple times
> over the last year alone and it's very detailed
> information about how to go about changing over to
> a DC motor , wiring, speed control you name it
> Roger covers it . I could only imagine how much
> detailed info he has contributed over the years
> he's been a member on this site , the archives
> are jam packed with more high tech Roger Wilson
> contraptions than any human being could possible
> absorb over a lifetime.
>
> Use the "Search" function at your own risk.

X2 on Roger