Hello all. I just started using a Brother P-touch to make decals and have a question about the edges showing. Is there anything that can be done about it? I thought I read in another post about using Sally Hansen hard as nails, but was unable to find anything in a search. the edges don't seem to be lifting just prominently displaying themselves. Is there a procedure to eliminate this? I applied the sticker (white on clear) directly to the blank. Should I put a coat of epoxy on first?

Thanks for the help.

I'm not familiar with P-touch decals, but in general putting a thin strip of CP along an edge is a good idea to prevent lifting. Most builders, especially with matte finish blanks, put a coat of finish epoxy on before the decal. This is more important with clear decals. Since you are not having lifting but are having "prominent edge" I would not recommend "hard as nails" because it is pretty thick and would possibly make the edge more prominent. If you are seeing the edge because it is at a higher level than the blank, then more epoxy on the area outside the decal, probably some sanding, then a final level coat would work. Can you better define "prominent?"

Hard as Nails is a fingernail finish that is available at more cosmetic sections of stores. Good stuff when used for the right purpose, but in general it is better to use materials specifically designed for rodbuilding.

Occasionally I will wrap the decal overnight with D thread to really snug down the decal and the next day immediately epoxy over the decal.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

If the outer edges are showing through how about removing the edges entirely by carefully cutting away the edges and just leaving the decal before you apply it , a fresh coat of epoxy before the decal in laid down is recommended by virtually all who have experience with this stuff.

Wrap over the decal with D Size Thread or any package cord, then apply a coat of CP and you won't have a problem with the edges lifting up.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I always lay down a coat of lite epoxy before applying the decal. I then apply the decal as soon as the epoxy will no longer finger print (don't test for this on the blank, use the left over epoxy from the application) then burnish the decal well especially the edges. Done this way i cannot even find the edges after another coat of epoxy.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2018 06:57PM by Phil Erickson.

He says his edges are not lifting. Which is why I asked for clarification about what "prominent" meant.

I have a P-Touch but mostly use Deal Connection decals and there is a local print shop that make them by me for a low price. The problem he is having with the edge is that it shows through after coating so you can tell there is an edge, it is not invisible. My friend also has one that builds and uses the thread techniques listed above and he says it will work. You can also try trimming the edges of decal at an angle so it will not stick up as much and put CP over it. I mainly use them under a tiger wrap and you cannot see the edge.

you can find the hard nails paint [ clear ] in most big BOX stores that sell finger nail coloring wife / girl friend or any women , will steer you to the correct place , I think

William Sidney
AK

Scott,
You have received many good replies from many veteran builders on a subject which pops-up here rather frequently. I have utilized such replies to develop my own method. Wrapping the decal to help it conform to the blank is essential but rather than thread or cord, I simply use 2-3 mil plastic cut into ½ wide strips and leave it for 12-24 hours. I have also found applying a coat of thread epoxy to the blank prior to the decal eliminates trapped air, especially on satin or porous blanks and affords a positive bond with the decal as well*. I have never been able to over-coat the decal with a single coat of finish, even high build, without being able to see a faint outline of the decal, so I put two coats of regular on top of the decal. Don’t leave any sharp corners on the decal, round everything off and trim closely to the text or logo.
*Note; A fairly thick (3-5) coat(s) of finish under the decal will “suspend” the decal off the blank and offer a shadow effect which is quite nice but at the expense of additional weight and larger diameter at that point.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Wow, Thanks for all the good ideas.

One thing I forgot to mention was that the blank in question was a matt finish blank.

I will experiment on the butt end of my next build to see what works best.

Thanks again!!

Adding to Mark's note, one can use electrical tape under applied with lots of stretch instead of plastic, just make sure to have something like decal backing between the tape and the blank to prevent any possible transfer of gummy residue. I like it better than wraps because I don't have a motorized wrapper and the thread sometimes leaves little "ridges."

Michael, thanks for the acknowledgement. Your suggestion has prompted me thinking yet again. Electrical tape is generally stronger than 2-3 mil plastic but we obviously do not want any possible contamination of the sticky residue over the decal or where the finish will be applied, as you stated. I’m thinking of starting the electrical well off to the side of the area to be finished until secured and then flipping it over with the sticky side up to cover the area to be finished and then end up flipping it back over again to secure the final end. I will try it out on my next decal and let you know the outcome. Thanks, Michael.
As for the “little” ridges left, they are just that, little, and they have always disappeared with the top coat of epoxy finish, even regular build. But that is why I have addopted the 1/2in wide strips of plastic rather than thread which I can only assume would leave more pronounced "little" ridges.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark,
If you want to avoid issues with the tape - while holding down a decal, simply wrap the decal with a wrap of paper before putting the tape on the rod and decal.

The paper will protect the decal from the sticky and the tape will be easy to remove.

You don't need to overthink it.

Good luck

I don’t have any experience with the p touch but instead use the pearl label and had the same issues, I have found through much trial and error my best results have been to trim close to the actual printed part of the label using sharp scissors and they have to be sharp no dollar store. Then stick label to high tack transfer tape this I think helps pull of some of the excess glue that comes out around the side , which I think is partially what you’re seeing. Then I will heat the area I am applying with a hair dryer and place label.next step I will roll the label with a hard rubber roller while applying heat with hair dryer for a good 2 or 3 minutes, pull of transfer tape and epoxy relatively soon and have gotten really good results. Hope that helps also I practiced on a Dowell before I put it on a rod.