I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2019 EXPO
EXPO ON FACEBOOK
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
All American Guides
American Tackle
Angler’s Roost
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
BRC Rods
Bingham Enterprises
Canada Rodbuildersupply
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
CTS New Zealand
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
Reelseatblanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rod Components USA
Rodgeeks
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Magazine Blog
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast

Refinishing old rod
Posted by: Josh Hutchison (---.sub-174-231-166.myvzw.com)
Date: November 25, 2018 07:09PM

I have stripped an old rod of my buddy’s and am putting a new guide set on it. Most of the old guides were double foot and the guides I am replacing them with are single foot so the “footprint” where I scraped off the epoxy and thread is much bigger than what I’ll be replacing it with. My question is how do I cover up the scuff marks on the blank from the scraping and sandpapering off of the old epoxy? I realize when I put the new guide on the new epoxy will hide the imperfections, but I don’t want to epoxy the whole “footprint” where the old guides were?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Refinishing old rod
Posted by: Herb Ladenheim (---.hfc.comcastbusiness.net)
Date: November 25, 2018 07:23PM

If the blank was painted and it is gone - you can't.
If the paint is intact you can use a MMM product to bring up the shine - basically buffing cloths with grit from 600 to 10,000. [www.esslinger.com]
Herb

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Refinishing old rod
Posted by: Bill Sidney (---.gci.net)
Date: November 25, 2018 07:38PM

when redoing old rods that is one of the pip falls on using old blanks , where time is money I will not re-guide an old blank for money , it just don't pay . to much time lost in LABOR , I think

William Sidney
AK

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Refinishing old rod
Posted by: Norman Miller (---.lightspeed.jcsnms.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 25, 2018 08:14PM

When I refinish a rod I strip the rod completely down with just the handle and reel seat remaining. If the blank is painted and the paint has chipped off in places, I will scape all the paint off using a utility knife held perpendicular to the the surface. It is not that difficult to do, it is easier than you think, and doesn’t take that long. I then wet sand the blank with 800 to 2000 grit wet/dry paper, to smooth everything out and remove the final traces of paint. Wipe the blank down with DNA and give it a coat or two of Permagloss. Wearing rubber gloves, Wipe on a very thin coat of PG using a PG saturated cosmetic sponge, cheese cloth or a coffee filter, by holding the applicator tight and squeegeeing on the PG. this will only take only a few seconds and will give a very thin coat. When finished stand the rod against the wall and let it cure. It will not drip if it’s a thin coat. You can give additional coats after about and hour or two. If the original fiinsh is just scratched up a little and doesn’t need to be removed you can scoff up it up with a fine scotchbrite pad or fine steel wool, and then apply a coat or two of PG. I have not had a problem wiping PG on a commercially painted rod. If done correctly you will not know where the old guides where and this allows you to optimize your guide placement.
Norm

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Refinishing old rod
Posted by: Bill Sidney (---.gci.net)
Date: November 25, 2018 11:33PM

Norm makes it sound easy , I wish it would work that easy for me ,

William Sidney
AK

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Refinishing old rod
Posted by: Michael Danek (---.alma.mi.frontiernet.net)
Date: November 26, 2018 09:12AM

I agree with Norm and will only add that when you take the old finish totally off, then refinish with PG or similar (NOT WRAP EPOXY) the blank will be a beautiful gloss charcoal that will go well with just about any wrap colors.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Refinishing old rod
Posted by: Phil Ewanicki (---.res.spectrum.com)
Date: November 26, 2018 01:54PM

The average rod blank on the market today has substantially better performance than nearly any 20-year-old rod blank. Unless there is some emotional attachment to an old rod blank [?!!] it's usually a better all around deal to have a rod built on a new blank, with new components.

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster