Wanted to poll all the knowledgeable folks that contribute to this forum to get ideas on components for two new builds. I ran across the NFC sale and couldn’t resist grabbing a few blanks at the discounted prices. I purchased an MB 706 HM and one of the new MB 736 X-Ray rods. Both willl be used for light t-rigs and general miscellaneous bottom contact baits. I am still fairly new to building rods with only a few builds under my belt so far. Those turned out great, but I am really excited about these blanks, and wanted to try and use hardware that wiould match up well with the blanks. So any recommendations for handles and guide trains would be greatly appreciated. I typically like the guide sizes in between that of the mini and regular size guides. Also, I typically prefer cork, but am not opposed to Eva either. My old black Cumaras have held up well. If you have time, I would very much appreciate any and all recommendations. Budget - is not too much of a concern, but not looking to break the bank either. Hoping to take advantage of the BF sales for the components as well.

MB 706 (HM) -

MB 736 (X-Ray) -

Thanks,

Jim

I recently received an MB 736 X ray, and have a couple of posts about it elsewhere on the forum. But .... I am excited about the upcoming build (this blank is crazy good) so I don't mind posting about it again lol

First off, I lightly sanded the entire blank to remove the textured feeling it has. It looks cool n all, but for me personally, I just didn't think I'd be able to get used to the feel of it. That and I use what is probably pretty high thread tension when wrapping, and I had concerns about how well I'd be able to pack my wraps. Be that as it may ... I am building my MB 736 as a casting rod. I have a second one on the way that I will most likely build as a spinning rod, but that decision may change. Anyhow, I want a full length rear grip so I will be using a 10" CFX carbon fiber grip, from Mud Hole. I've built two other rods with carbon fiber grips, And really like them a lot. Otherwise I have used EVA for all of my other builds. I don't mind cork handles, I just haven't built a rod using it yet.

For the reel seat, I am a huge fan of the MVT reel seat from Alps. I don't know that it transmits vibrations any better than any similar reel seat, but it's a beautiful reel seat, and is very comfortable in use.

For guides I am using Fuji T2 titanium K guides with the dark grey finish, and slim SIC rings. Sizes and models I will be using are as follows, #10, #8, and #6 KWs for the reduction train. 2, #5 KBs for the midsection, and 6, #5 KTs for the running guides.The tip top is a matching Fuji Arowana #5 ring and a 4.5 tube. As mentioned earlier, I sanded the entire blank, but I need to do a little more light sanding to fit the 4.5 tube.

I didn't purchase a fore grip as I make my own. It's more or less a 3/8" thick EVA nub that I turn down to the OD of the thread barrel. I do that so I can trim the length of the thread barrel very short, and not have the nub interfere with the reel seat's hood nut when putting on or taking of the reel, from the rod. It makes it very easy to keep my index finger in touch with the rod blank. A EVA butt cap, a couple of titanium colored trim rings and a titanium colored hook keeper completes my list of components.

I got the guides, reel seat, and trim rings, from Get Bit, and the butt cap and CFX rear grip, from Mud Hole.

Oh in case you're wondering, for guide wraps I will be using black for the main wrap, and Pro Wrap #9820 gun metal metallic for either trim bands at the end of the wraps, or an accent in the middle of them. Haven't decided yet.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2018 12:32PM by David Baylor.

Appreciate you sharing your build and expertise. I will check out the build list you referenced.

Anyone have any quality handle kit recommendations? Trying to reduce the chance of mistakes, based on my overall experience with custom builds.

I agree on everything David had to say on the running guides. I think 5's make a lot of sense-going smaller can bring on some problems with no significant advantage. While his reduction train will work fine, I usually start with the KR reverse #6 and go all the rest of the way with the #5's.

For spin I love the KLH set-up, and have settled on the 20H-10H-5.5M for the reduction. For lighter braids you can start with a 16, but then if you want to use heavier braid at some time, you might not get the greatest casting performance. The weight add for starting with the 20 has to be very small, and it gives more versatility over starting with the 16. Runners just like the cast version.

For spin I prefer up-loading the seat. I cut off as David does and I use a small ramp off the back as he does off the front. But by using the uploading configuration one can size a front ramp that is the same size as the seat hood, so the feel off the front is very nice, smooth, no threads. and it looks great besides. But if you are using kits, then these options may not be available.

Pay attention to the placement of the seat relative to the butt. Too long and you could end up snagging the butt on your clothing. Some builders in search of perfect balance end up with too much length behind the seat. less likely with these very light blanks, but pay attention.

Here is an example of the front of the uploading setup I mentioned. I turn my own cork-built a simple setup that works well in a drill press. No lathe.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Great information, thank you. I will check out the link. Both rods will be set up as casting rods.

Smallest grip you feel comfortable with in carbon fiber either batson or cfx, reel seat is preference, I like ecs with barrel shortened, guides either titanium sic or torzite. Rv6,lag5,4,3.5. Wraps as short as possible, epoxy as thin as possible but while still providing adequate coverage (or permagloss)

I like what everyone has said so far about guides. As far as real seats go for casting rods I like Fuji because I have not had any failures with the hoods or bodies. For easy mounting I would use Fuji ACS or ECMS; for a little more complicated with inserts the PTS, PMTS and PULS; Somewhat complicated (space barrel 1.25" from rear seat edge to edge) split 2 piece reel seat SKS with your choice of hood/nut. I just think Fuji has a better real seat material formula that resist cracking. On fly rods I like the aluminum Alps, REC and Struble reel seats.

I couldn't agree more with Michael's cautioning about rear grip length. It's definitely something you want to pay attention to, especially if the rod will be used for pitching. Pitching, at least the way I perform it, brings the butt of he rod directly in line with the center of my body. What might work well in warmer air temperatures with less bulky clothing on, might be more than troublesome in cooler air temperatures that require wearing bulkier clothing.

Contrary to a couple of comments about the length of the rear grip.
i.e. I personally prefer the use of a balanced rod with the reel that I plan to use on the rod. If this means that I need a longer rear grip to balance the rod, I will put on a longer rear grip. I can live with the consequences of a longer rear grip - but I can't live with a rod that is not balanced.

Your choice.

The suggestions for guides and reel seats will build up into a nice rod.

But the rod will function as well if one uses pac bay minima guides in the appropriate sizes that cost just a fraction of some of the suggested components listed above. I also use the Pad Bay skeletal reel seat with cork rear grip and cork between the reel seat sections and no fore grip. Light, functional, long lasting and very comfortable to use. -

Again, your choice.