So looking at HS821-1 HM blank from North Fork. .600" butt diameter, ex-fast. I'd really like to take 4-5" off the butt of this rod. What's the preferred method for shortening down rods so you don't accidentally put any stress fractures or cracks in it.

Thanks

I use a chop saw with an abrasive cut off wheel on it.

A dremel tool with an abrasive cut off wheel on it works equally well.

For example:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The picture is a miniature chop saw purchased from Harbor freight.
I removed the saw from its base and removed all of the raised markings on the base by using a belt sander. Then, I obtained a narrow piece of aluminum angle to use as a back stop and bolted it to the base at the center line of the motor shaft.
Finally, I remounted the saw to its base and replaced the saw blade with a 3 inch abrasive cut off wheel.

Lastely, I mounted the saw on a 2x base with rubber feet to give the saw some weight to remain stationary when using it.

This saw will easily cut a blank, piano wire or other similar materials.

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[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is another chop saw that I have modified for use with an abrasive cut off wheel.
It started as an 8 inch chop saw. I modified the base by raising it and putting a backing bar on the saw. I added a light for ease of use and replaced the 8 inch blade with a thin tool room 8 inch abrasive wheel.
The nice thing about using a thin abrasive wheel, is that little material is removed from the item being cut, so the cutting goes quickly and cleanly.

Good luck

If you are very careful you can use a fine blade hack saw, the key is caution. As mentioned an abrasive wheel is best.

I wrap tape around the area I want to cut and use my junky 10” Ryobi mitre saw and cut it. Perfect cut, no splintering every time

The problem with saws is that it is possible for a tooth to catch fibers and break them out. So tape is right, and the fastest, smallest/finest tooth saw moving very slowly will work. But not as reliable as a high speed abrasive wheel moving slowly through the blank.

I take masking tape and wrap it where I want to cut the blank. I then take a Dremmel with a stone cut off wheel and carefully cut around the blank. I hold the Dremmel steady in one hand and with the other hand I steady the blank and slowly rotate the blank 360 deg and make very light cuts until it is cut all the way through.

It usually takes several revolutions to complete the cut. This method is a safe, quick and will not damage the blank.


Have fun

John

I use a 41/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel. Quite possibly one of the handiest power tools on earth if you're a fabricator/handyman sort of guy.

DREMMEL tool an TAPE , make sure the tape is on tight, no matter what method you use to cut it off with always use tape & have it on tight , with a couple of wraps cheep insurance , I think

William Sidney
AK

Michael I’ve never had a single problem with the saw. I do not force the blade through and take generally around 10 seconds to make the cut. I think slowly working through the blank may be why I’ve not had a problem. I only cut the butt and the area I cut is always under a grip. Maybe I have just been fortunate.

No, your right Thomas, a miter saw works great, also cuts foam and cork grips straight, or at an angle cleanly.

p.s.
If you use a chop saw or similar saw using a blade; remove the blade and put it on backward. The blade will still cut, although more slowly, but with the blade and the point of the tooth pointing in the direction opposite to the direction of blade rotation, the teeth will not catch on the rod blank and destroy it.

However, it is still better to use a blade with no teeth, in the form of an abrasive cut off wheel or a diamond saw blade that is normally used to cut ceramic tile. No teeth on the blade and no teeth to catch on the blank.

Good luck

p.s.
Here is a saw used to cut graphite and fiberglass arrow shafts. Essentially the same construction as fishing rod blanks.
Effectively, the saw is a 5,000 rpm motor with an abrasive cut off wheel mounted to the assembly and then a table to support the arrow shaft.

[www.meatprocessingproducts.com]

Roger thank you for the suggestion

I use a small triangle file. With just a few times around the blank and it is done. You can finish with a flat file to make the cut straight if needed. There is no flying graphite particles.

The small triangle file that Randy mentioned also works well for cutting the skin of carbon fiber grips.