I've never been a fan of filling my cork grips, I honestly prefer the way they look and the texture my grips have without filler. However, I'm reworking a handle and I will need to fill the pits. I've heard of guys using min-wax wood filler. Any idea what color I should use? There's 3-4 different colors that look close, and I'm not certain which to use.

Jay,
I use one thing for pit filling.

Elmer's golden oak wood filler.

In a word, it works and works well.

[www.menards.com]

I will generally use 2 or maybe 3 coats - depending on the depth of the pit/s.

I normally do this on the lathe, and do it prior to the final couple of grits of sand paper for the grip that I am turning. That way, the final finish takes care of both the cork and the filler at the same time.

Unfortunately, in the world of today's cork with very high quality getting more and more expensive, or not available at all - it would seem that if we make cork grips, there will normally have to be some pit filling done on the cork.

This is a very big reason why more and more builders and commercial rod makers are using grips made of material other than natural cork.

Good luck

I agree with Roger, Elmer's Golden Oak wood filler. I put on a pair of nitrile gloves and rub it into the pits. It sands very nicely, and is rated for exterior use, so is water resistant. Can also make a paste using cork dust and exterior Titebond wood glue. Stays in place very well but requires a little more sanding. After sanding I apply a cork seal, to make sure everything stays in place.
Norm

That's the one I meant, Elmer's! Thanks guys!

That's the one I meant, Elmer's! Thanks guys!

Jay,
I agree with leaving the natural cork just that, natural. However, there are times when a pit is more of a hole which requires filling. I learned of Elmer’s golden oak wood filler on this site, probably from Roger and/or Norman and it does work nicely. Hopefully you purchase a fresh tube. The first tube I bought was so thick or dried-out it was nearly impossible to squeeze out of the tube, even after kneading and applying a bit of heat.
Just curious, does anyone use Pit Paste?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Make sure it's the outdoor stuff, there are 2 types.

Mark,
The only filler i use is PIT PASTE.
Herb

Pit Paste also works well, just like the Elmer's wood filler it sands nicely. My only minor problem with it is it does shrink a little more than the Elmer's wood filler, and seems to pop out a little easier.
Norm

Jay,
Another option is to salvage some of the cork dust you create when sanding the grip and make a paste with Titebond lll. I turn the cork handle on a lathe and apply a thin coat of the Titebond lll to the pits (kind of a primer coat). Remove any excess with a damp cloth and apply the paste in all the pits by pressing it in firmly with a spatula or similar tool. Leave it high, let it dry,then just sand it off smooth. By using this method, I find the color match to be spot on.
FYI - Not my idea - Learned it on this forum !!!

Jon Hood

DAP Plastic wood filler, natural or light oak. Last longer in the can than the Elmer's in the plastic tube and dries faster when applied. It is solvent based so it holds up to moister. Over time just about all fillers will come out eventually if the rod gets a lot of use and exposure to water. I do not like Pit Paste because it comes out of the cork too soon and dries up in the small container (short shelf life).

Thanks guys. I ended up using the Elmer's stuff. It didn't really match what was in the existing cork color-wise, but once everything was sanded down and all cleaned up things turned out just dandy.

Obtain some wine bottle corks - real cork. Sand the corks with #150 sandpaper over a sheet of newspaper and save the dust. Mix up some clear, flexible epoxy with a set-up time of at least ten minutes and stir in the cork dust at a 1:1 ratio to the epoxy. Trowel the cork-epoxy mixture into gaps in the cork handle, taking care to completely fill the holes. Use a spatula to level the cork-epoxy with the surface of the grip, and carefully wipe off excess mixture around filled holes with a soft cloth saturated with epoxy solvent. You can turn the handle on a rod dryer while the epoxy sets up if you wish to be extra careful. I have a couple of rods I repaired this way 10 or more years ago and the repairs are still difficult to detect. Repairs still feel and look like cork, because they are.