Hi all, would like to know others ideas or what type of material you use for pull-thru loops for wraps ...I have used mono, unwaxed dental floss, and even wrapping thread itself - but I am always open to "new" methods and techniques

I use 8 to 15 lb braided line. I use the stuff I would normally throw away when changing line on my reels. I like fluorescent yellow or chartreuse, because it makes the loops more visible.
Norm

I use the free samples from HITENA [ no the left ] there low LB test line is some of the thinnest you can find , if not the thinnest , clean it with a DNA bath before use , not sure on that they use on there line .
I use 4 lb test never have had it break on me , one of there free samples will last you an all your friends till you leave this life , then same ,idea as Norm Miller stated above , just free an thinner,

William Sidney
AK

Bill, I tried the Hitena braid sample for loops,the only problem was when I laid the loop down couldn’t find it again, it was so thin and colorless it was invisible.
Norm

Yet again, great replies from those-in-the-know. I have switched from D thread to 10lb braid, Power Pro if it matters, for my pull through loops. I spend a considerable amount of time on my wraps and the last thing wanted is for the pull through loop to break after an hour of wrapping and everything goes ”Boink”. Whatever is used for the pull through, cut off at least 2ft and position the end of the loop so it is not at the same point of actually pulling the wrap thread under each time. I use the same pull through for at least 20 wraps. While certain the pull through would last longer, I prefer to avoid the Boink!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Norm: LOOPS , I had the same problem as not finding it , I make lots of them , over time I find a lot , not all , but most ,

William Sidney
AK

I use Stren green 10lb braid, color makes it easier to find when dropped. Always have a few loops made up "just in case"!

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

Same here 10lb braid with a little bead or plastic bread tied on so i can find them ..

Each rod stand (there are 5 on my lathe) has a bent wire hook for hanging the loops. And when I tie a loop I put a small piece of masking tape on the tied end. So there is always a loop handy and a nearby place to hang the loop after pulling the thread under the wrap. I make 10 or so loops at a time, still sometimes misplace one: Lay it on the bench or the lathe bed and it is gone forever!!!

I'll stick with mono for the pull loop. I tried the braid, it just slowed me down, I didn't like the limp loop.

I'm with Paul...I got sick of the limp loops too. And it really does slow you down. At least it does for me.

I have used the mono, but after about 3 pull-throughs, it takes on "a set" in the form of a kink - I was wanting to avoid this, in maybe the loop being of another material that I've not tried.....once the mono gets the "kink" set, it tends to make it a bit harder to pull up under the wraps - and no, my tension on them is not too tight-so, as my looking for something else.....I know that you guys here have dozens of ideas and methods. I thank you all that have responded so far, what a great group !

Thanks again

Can't find your loops when you drop one, a simple piece of red yarn loop lock to the knot end solves that problem. flip the knot back over and sick the yarn thru pull the loop close and snip a small tag, Lay it in on the bench , drop it on the floor you'll spot that that red tag every time,

It's a shame that peopel are using the most expensive adn best braided line you can buy, for pull throughs. SMH. If anyone can't deal with teh limpness of raid, you're not using it properly. Use heavier braid, like 30-50#, make it really long, open the looop up, cut the thread and it will fall righ tinto the open loop. YOu never ever have to fiddle with teh tag end to fit it through the loop, just grab the tag and pull the loop - you can't do it faster than that. CAn't teach technique via typing though

I have learned to to use the characteristics of mono and will pull from different points of the loop which causes the loop to deform and set slightly in a more open position. Easier to hit a square loop than a narrow slit shape or just slip in your loop and tug slightly on one side to distort the loop and cause it to open wider.

with braid I have a 3" circle for the tag end to fall through. The problem with Mono is for beginners, they might use too heavy a # test, and when they pull through there is a void left by teh mono which causes the wraps to get loose, especially on thinner diameter blanks. I helped MH with 3 of their classes, and by far the biggest problem people were running into was losing tension on their wraps when the thread was pulled through using too thick mono, and poor technique (which is expected by people just starting)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2018 09:13PM by Billy Vivona.

I use 10 lb high vis power pro braided line for pull loops. When I make the loop, I also incorporate a very high vis - bright pink, or bright red or orange bead. That way, when the pull thread gets dropped or misplaced, the bead makes the loop easy to see.

Also, the bead creates a nice handle for the pull loop and makes the work easy.

The 10 lb power pro is thinner than any of the common wrapping thread and thus makes easy work of pulling the thread through the wraps. Also, 10 lb power pro breaks at about 25 lbs, so the thread will break before the pull loop will break.

Good luck

White 10 lb spider wire braid. I use it on my spinning rods, so I have a lot of it hanging around