Not necessarily for storage, but cleaning as well.. I heard everything from pledge to a thin coat of 3-2-1 oil.. (No ive never put oil on my rods) pledge seems like it would put a bice shine.. Possibly protect the blank material, but also seems lime it would leave a residue... I never put pledge on my rods.. Its for wood.. Not composites.. Atleast thats how i feel about it.. What i have used is WD-40 with Silicone.. Obviously avoiding getting it on cork or any grip material.. The WD stands for "water displacment" and the 40 is the 40th formula they came up with.. Its also (from what ive heard) basically fish oils.. The fact it has silicone in it seems to help protect the finish in my opinion.. And helps cast a little smoother when applied to guides... I dont use it for only rod storage, but for general cleaning as well.. If anyone has a better product that wont cost a arm and a leg, or if im wrong to be using WD-40, please put your 2 cents in..

One more thing about WD40... Its also a fish attractant.. Ive never, and would never soak any form of bait or lure in it as im a bit of a environmentalist, but people have, and say it works.. I guess it works like a feramone scent.. Makes sence if im right on it primarily being made from fish oils..

Thanks in advance for comments, suggestions, and general awesomeness of knowledge... You guys are my goto..

Cleans the rod and guides with a mild soap, let dry, and store

Actually, one of my go-to cleaners for fishing rods, bench tops, windows and general cleaning is Windex window spray.

I think that there is Ammonia in the solution, since you can smell Ammonia in the cleaner.

I will also go to the big box store and buy a gallon of Ammonia for about $2 and then dilute it a bit for general cleaning. I use that for the same as windex, but I also use it to wash floors and cars as wel.


There is nothing in a rod that is going to get better or worse by putting anything on the rod or the grip.

Good luck



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/13/2018 12:42PM by roger wilson.

So your saying that a fiberglass rod for example, isnt going to benifit from any form of protective coating? I mean i guess i have to agree.. Vehicles are exposed to extreme hot and cold conditions.. And the panels are abused way more then a rod would hopefully ever be.. After years of exposure brittleness occurs..

Ok, lets restate the original question, for the adverage fisher person who stores rods in the shed.. Where it is exposed to hot and cold conditions.. I consider this abuse, but 90% of people do this..

Anthony

When I clean my rods I use whatever is available, Simple Green, 409, Fantastic, Dish washing detergent, etc. I follow it up with paste wax, it seems that less things stick to the rod when it is waxed. Its my thing.
As far as storing the rods as long as they are clean and kept out of the elements no additional precaution is necessary.

The hot and cold conditions present no worries because the temperature excursions are not instantaneous therefore the rods suffer no "thermal shock " Just keep them out of reach so they do not get damaged by handling or moving abuse during storage.

Good Luck

John

WD40 is a solvent, not a silicone. It does displace water, but is not meant for corrosion protection. In fact, if you want to accelerate something to rust, coat it with WD40. Now I'm talking about the long-time formula, not one of their newer specialty WD40 products that are different and labeled for other uses.

BoeShield T9 would be my choice for corrosion protection, hands down. This would be for mechanical type devices, such as a reel, of course.

For the rod blank, just a coat of wax or even a household furniture wax/polish like Lemon Pledge would be about all I'd do.

In either case, keep stuff out of the stuff and in an area free of moisture. You can mess up a rod pretty quickly by shutting it up, damp, inside a rod tube for a long period. Not as bad now that our rods aren't made of wood or weeds, but still not good on finishes, grips, etc.

...........

simply some dish washing soap in a spray bottle a soft tooth brush for the guides and a soft brush for the grips and rinse it off after and let it dry and then in the sock or snake skin cover and store in tube for fly rod or rack for other rods

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Anthony

Everyone has their favorite cleaner and polish. My favorite cleaner is Dawn dish soap, which is always in my house, is a great degreaser, which is very good for cleaning cork grips, and it contains no abrasives so it's safe for all rod components.

If a little additional luster is desired, I use Johnson's paste wax, which is just wax with a dryer and is safe for all rods. Do not use automotive waxes unless you know with certainty exactly what it contains.

I do not use anything containing silicone. If you've fought silicone contamination in your epoxy finishing area you know why silicone is not welcome.

If needed, and it's a rare event, mineral spirits can be used with a cotton swab to clean the interior of nickel silver female fly rod ferrules.

I fish saltwater mostly and all I do is rinse them off with water real good. I have never used any soap or anything else but I do store my rods inside away from moister. I use titanium framed guides so there is no problem with corrosion. I will use mink oil or clear wax type shoe polish / cleaner on the cork to keep it from dry rotting and it has worked for over 30+ years.

Tom- i know its a solvent, the specific kind im talking about is with silicone..

For the record guys.. I do NOT store my rods in such a manner.. This is for general discussion, and to possibly disporove the myth of some products vs. Others for best results...

Donald- thankfully i havent had to deal with silicone contamination yet.. But after the rods finished, does contamination really come into play?

Anthony

Nothing wrong with silicone PROVIDED everything you use to apply it to and on does not get even close to your work area. Silicone is in lots and lots of products, and the problem is epoxy will not play pretty (as in it's really ugly) with epoxy. So use all the silicone you wish on a finished rod. Just know that silicone contamination in your work area is very bad and the devil's own work to remedy.

What I tell folks who ask how to care for their rods is keep them clean (most non-abrasive soaps such as Dawn or Simple Green), store them clean and DRY, thoroughly dry, in a rod sock and tube. Lots of bad things can happen to stored rods, but a clean, dry rod in a sock and tube placed in a cool, dry place is as safe and well protected as possible within the bounds of reasonable expense.

Ok.. Your talking about in your work area.. Yeah i completly agree with you it not being good

WD-40 is petroleum oil, you might as well pour engine oil in the water. Charlie White from Canada proved bilge water was a salmon attractant by dipping his trolling spoons in it than filming the results side by side to a clean spoon. This was back in the 80's. It's illegal to use WD-40 as a fish atteactant.

Im not saying to use it as a attractant.. I would never... I was simply stating the fact that if ypu get some on your guides its not like pouring purfume on your reel.. The fish wont be deterred.. Ive heard of people having less luck after using a product like lemon pledge.. I guess fish dont care for the smell of lemons.. I use it on the rod.. And the guides, as a cleaner... Then wipe it away.. I dont leave it on... Although im sure theres residue..

Some fallacies in above posts. (1.) I do not agree that 90% of rods are stored in sheds, especially where better storage places are available in homes and garages. (2.) WD40 is not a petroleum product, it was developed for the aircraft industry and is fish oil based.

As for preparing rods for storage, I clean my fly rods after every trip, with primarily water, using a light dish soap if I think necessary, I apply carnuba wax about once a year after cleaning with soapy water and drying thoroughly.

I also fish a lot of saltwater though just starting out building. I also collect vintage Mitchell reels
. On all my user reels and rods, I just hose down. I than apply a light coat of Corrosion Block a waterproof grease.

Depends upon what you wish to protect against: mice, oxidation, warping or obsolescence?

Ok, so the majority of people who dont properly store there rods.. Sorry to put a percentage on it.. Or a specific location..

Thank you phil.. I was under the impression it was a fish oil base, not petroleum.. As for what to protect against? Warping, although that boils down to storage issues, mice storage issues, oxidation storage issues.. obsolescence.. Probably not storage issues...

How about the question gets revamped again..

What is a good "repellant" for grime.. And whatever else finds its way onto your rod? I would guess wax would give a noce barrier to help keep the gunk off.. And no one suggest fish cleaner waters.. Anyone who has fly fished knows, your line gets filthy even in crystal clear water... Lol



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/14/2018 01:14AM by Anthony Unger.

Ingredients in wd-40.

------------------
Image result for ingredients in wd-40marketingcommunicationsink.com
WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons". ...
<25% petroleum base oil. ...
12–18% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon. ...
2–3% carbon dioxide. ...
<10% inert ingredients.

---------------------
By the way, lots of folks spray wd-40 on their lures and or baits to catch more fish and in general - it works to put more fish in the boat.

Also, the preparation used to help with your bathroom habits called preparation H also works very well.

Genuine preparation H contains "shark - liver oil."

Active Ingredient Preparation H | Search & Find Quick Results.?
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Active Ingredients: Preparation H is available in ointment, cream, gel, and suppository product forms. The Ointment contains Petrolatum 71.9%, Mineral Oil 14%, Shark Liver Oil 3% and Phenylephrine HCl 0.25%.

Lmao.. That'll be the day... See some guy using a suppository on a treble... Lol

I did a search on wd-40 after all this back and forth.. And acording to wiki, it is petroleum based.. Wiki isnt always accurate. however, i will never use it again based on the possibility..

Simple green was designed for the aircraft field.. Warning on that though.. It needs to be flushed heavily with water.. It is a penetration cleaner, it will get the grime out from under bolts.. But with that on mind, aluminum rivets on aircraft have failed due to currosion.. It gets in there and is hard to get out.. They make a currosion free version specifically for aircraft..

Keep that in mind while cleaning your rods that have aluminum exposed.. Better safe then sorry.. Thanks for all the input guys..

"Is Simple Green corrosive to aluminum?
? Alkaline — What are high-alkaline, water-based cleaners, and are they hazardous? ... However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process."

Roger is right on what the ingredients of WD40 are. From the official WD40 Company Material Safety Data Sheet.

By way, an aliphatic compound is a general type of hydrocarbon, the other being an aromatic hydrocarbon. Depends on the structure. Examples of aliphatic compounds are the simplest, methane (CH4), Ethylene, isooctane, acetylene, propene, propane, squalene, and polyethylene are examples of aliphatic compounds. When in doubt about products like this search for the product exact name and Material Safety Data Sheet. These are legal documents required by the US gov't, not some user-generated "opinion data base."

The WD40 company states the uses of WD40 as "Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion."

Keep it simple: Clean the rod with some kind of soap and water and dry it, inspecting for any damage, then wax if you want. Or not if you don't.