I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2019 EXPO
EXPO ON FACEBOOK
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
All American Guides
American Tackle
Angler’s Roost
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
Bingham Enterprises
Canada Rodbuildersupply
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
CTS New Zealand
Custom Fly Grips LLC
DBlue Fishing
Decal Connection
DONART
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
Reelseatblanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rod Components USA
Rodgeeks
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Magazine Blog
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast

Pages: Previous12
Current Page: 2 of 2
Re: Double and Triple wrap Guides Question
Posted by: Paul Wray (138.162.8.---)
Date: September 05, 2018 12:12PM

I have an older rod, dating back to the late 80's that was my dads. I am wanting to rebuild it for him, and this sounds just like the right idea to bring it back to life. should I wet sand the blank before applying?

If I was to sand, what grit should I use? maybe a 300, or are we talking about a grit like a 4000?

when you say wipe it on, you saying like soak a rag, and just rub it until it shines, so there is no dull showing?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Double and Triple wrap Guides Question
Posted by: Norman Miller (---.lightspeed.jcsnms.sbcglobal.net)
Date: September 05, 2018 02:22PM

You can do a search on permaglosss, and you will get a ton of things to read. Basically, I use a round cosmetic sponge to apply permagloss. I use Kroger brand, but I am sure there are others that will work. I think Tom likes cheese cloth, and some like the foam from a foam paint brush. I pour a little into a small mixing cup about the size of a shot glass. Wearing a pair of nitrile gloves I let the sponge suck up all the Permagloss. Then starting at the tip, I wrap the sponge around the blank, or punch the tip through the sponge, and pull the sponge down the blank, with the sponge acting as a squeegee. This will give you very thin coat that just wets the blank. I then prop the blank against the wall and let it cure. Since it is a very thin coat it will not run, and it will cure in about 30 to 60 min, at which time you can re-coat. Permagloss gives you a very light, and durable finish that look great.
Permagloss is a moisture catalyzed polyurethane, the higher the humidity the quicker it cures. Because of this you have to take some care as to how you store Permagloss so it does not cure in the container. I make sure the cap is tight, and I place the container inside an airtight jar with some dessicated and place it in the refrigerator. II will last a long time stored this way.
For preparing the rod, if the finish is severely damaged I will scape it off, and then wet sand it with 800 to 1500 wet dry paper. This wet sanding does not damage the blank, it's almost like polishing the blank. If the finish is just scratched, then I will wet sand as mentioned, or rough up a little with a fine Scotch brand pad or extra fine steel wool. When happy, coat with Permagloss.
Hope this helps,
Norm

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Double and Triple wrap Guides Question
Posted by: Mike Ballard (37.48.125.---)
Date: September 06, 2018 12:36PM

There is an easier way to do all this. Go ahead and make your wrap and then double back and return to the starting point. Now you have two layers of thread over the guide foot. Select a thinner or "lite" epoxy and apply that heavily enough that it soaks in all the way. You do not need it to form a thick top coat. This is just a penetrating coat so no need to go so heavy that you might have sags or runs. About 12 to 16 hours later, apply a regular or high build epoxy per normal. I guarantee you that this will create one of the strongest and most durable guide wraps you can make.

Options: ReplyQuote
Pages: Previous12
Current Page: 2 of 2


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster