Alright.. So.. I made the mistake of showing my mother some of the feather inlays on the photos section..

My question.. How do you guys go about applying them? Do the oils in the feathers need to be washed out first? Do you guys coat with colorfast to assure the epoxy doesnt fisheye? Is that even a concern? Lol as you can tell, i have no idea where to begin.. But luckily im a fly tyer, so i have alot of feathers...

Any suggestions, pointers, comments are welcome and appreciated

Many put down a coat of CP first, and while still wet, then arrange the feathers and when dry, apply more CP before epoxy.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/24/2018 07:22PM by Phil Erickson.

Yes, the oil in some feathers can be an issue, but I've never tried to wash it out with soap or alcohol. Select the feather size and color that works aesthetically and trim as needed. If you'll be putting the feather on a wrap, make the wrap. Then put down a coat of CP regardless of whether you are mounting to a wrap or directly to the blank. When the CP is cured. test fit the feather, put down a coat of CP and quickly position the feather using a brush loaded with CP to move the feather as needed and smooth things out. When the CP has cured at two more coats of CP to well seal the feather. Finish with epoxy or spar.

Strongly recommend you practice on a spare blank or dowel before the real thing. Some feathers look great but just don't work - at least they don't for me. And some that seem iffy work well. Go figure.

id like to toss another question out there….is it required to have a coat of epoxy over a base thread, or can you use CP to get a smooth surface for the feather to adhere to ? im fixing to try my first inlay on my next build.

I have never applied a feather inlay to thread that has not had CP already on it and dried. Might work, but I don't know. I think you need a hard finish which will allow the feather to move freely. Feather inlays are not as hard as they look. I have never washed feathers before; cannot understand how the feather could be washed and then look like it is pristine. I do as Don does. I'll only add that don't worry if you get a lumpy stub of a feather vein sticking out. After the first epoxy coat you can cut it off and then more coats of epoxy, sometimes 3 for me, and you'll never notice it.

If you need to wash feathers, hit them with a jet of steam, it relaxs the babules and allows the feather to go back to its natural shape.. Trick i learned from making flies.. Best way it to boil water in a small pot, make a kettle spout with tin foil, works well.. You have to wash hackles that arent store bought.. Get the greese out...

The steaming process is used by alot in making salmon flies.. You know, the picture frame kind.. Like the jock scott



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/24/2018 11:17PM by Anthony Unger.

So the color perserver acts as a barrier essentially? Ive only made 2 rods so far.. Never even seen the stuff



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/24/2018 11:20PM by Anthony Unger.

CP protects the original coloration of the feathers and thread. If you don't use CP with feathers they will come out almost black, certainly much less attractive. Same for snakeskin. It also provides a stable platform on which to put the inlay and when it dries, the feather will be secure. often inlays are better if done in several layers, so CP keeps the under layers in place while you top with another. When done and dry, wrap epoxy makes the inlays permanent and stunning in appearance. I usually have to use several coats of epoxy.