Hey guys, new to this site..

I am at the thread coat stage of my 2nd build.. This is a 2 piece, 7' extra fast action, medium power.. 6-12 lb... I put a microwave guide system on it.. Never tried them before, hopefully they work as well as i hope.. Cfx carbon fiber split grip, looks beautiful on the slate grey blank.. I used all size A maroon and smoke gray nylon pro thread...(i put some water on the a portion of the wraps to see how they will darken, and honesty prefer the look) Aero reel seat.. Should have went bigger then a 16, but my pfluger Presuident fits well enough.. Since im new to the site im not sure how to add pictures yet..

On my first build, when i applied the 2 part ,coat (prokote) around my logo and rod info the finish was very uneven, i added a second coat to try and level it out.. Didnt work.. And my edges of the guide wraps were not exactly neat... Went further then i wanted trying to get a perfect edge.. I know you can lightly sand the first coat, to level out the logo area, and i know theres suggestions of using a plastic tape to get a perfect edge on the guide wraps..

My question...
When you guys suggest plastic tape, would 3M electric tape work? Its a vynl tape.. Everyone suggests a plasic tape, but never gives a brand... Also, how imperative is it to have the rod 100% level when on the rod dryer? I have a crb 9rpm dryer..

Also, with this second build im not puting any rod info or logo on it, the thread wraps are maroon with smoke gray accent thread, im not using color preserver, it seems from reading what people have written it could be more trouble then its worth...

its for me, and i know what it is..lol its very clean..and in my own option, gorgeous.... Very stealthy looking.... Any suggestions, or comments or welcome.. I need criticism, and you guys to pick my process, or techniques apart..

One last thing... I places the guides according to the suggested spacing.. After the massive research ive been doing on each step before acually doing each step, i wish i would have done static spacing... I will do that for the next rod...

Thanks guys,
TJ



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/18/2018 09:15AM by Anthony Unger.

first off, dont use water to check your thread colors. use alcohol, it gives the same effect and will totally evaporate.
to help remedy the uneven finish use heat on the finish ( i prefer a heat gun ) and wipe your brush along the bottom of the blank to remove the excess.
try some threadmaster epoxy, you may like it better , i do.

In addition to Sam's comments, try applying the guide finish while the rod is spinning quickly. The fast rotating speed of the rod, will insure that you have straight edges on the guide wraps.

If you are wrapping by hand, then this is a problem. But, if you are wrapping with a power wrapper, you can use the power wrapper to spin the rod at your desired speed while applying finish.

Good luck

I checked the small portion with water, 6 days ago.. So it should be dry... Im using a hand wrapper, my dryer spins at 9 rpm.. So.. Little slow lol.. Thanks for the responses

Apply your epoxy on the labels with a smooth brush length wise, easier to prevent wavy finish.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

Ditto DNA vs H2O. Or just know that the wraps will darken with a dark blank.
Ditto ThreadMaster Hi
Ditto brushing lengthwise to obtain even surface. You can apply while rotating. But stop rotation and "pull finish lengthwise to lower hi spots and fill low spots. Then return to rotating.
I never use tape. Just make sure your wraps are symmetrical then finish as close to edge as possible. Then "drag finish to end of wrap - and onto the blank - using a blunt metal embossing tool like this - [www.youtube.com]. Rotate to get even edge.

NEVER use generic spacing from books.

Good luck.
Herb

Anthony,

I used to fight the same problem, then I went back to the Library, (click link above), and re-read the article entitled "Improving your Epoxy Finish" and it solved ALL of the problems with lumpy epoxy over the decals. The come out like glass and I was simple amazed! As for edges on each side of the wraps, just rotate the rod and support your hand with a block of wood so you get rid of the shakes. Just apply the epoxy to the edges of the thread wraps and it will slowly flow down onto the blank surface.

Good luck and read the article"Improving your Epoxy Finish " and follow what it suggests.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I guess before i coat the wraps ill run some line through, see how it follows the blank.. I have to think i might have to redo the guides..

With the microwave line control system, they give measurments off the arbor for the first 3 off the reel... Its my understanding that those guides have "critical" spacing for the system to work properly.. Does anyone agree or disagree with that? As i stated before, ive never used a rod with that system.. So i have no idea

First of all, if this is just your second rod, you did great. It's all together. It has a handle, a reel seat and guides. Go fish it before you do anything dumb like removing and rearranging the spacing. I often find I like 1 more guide than the recommended spacing, but the factory recommendation is a good place to start.

Regarding finish, while no expert, the thing that improved mine the most, is putting it on, then rotating it guides up, and allowing the extra to collect below the guide and wick if off. I actually use a hobby stainless spatula but any extra finish is removed. Then allow it to rotate for 12 hours and repeat the process. Extra finish just accumulates and forms lumps, waves, footballs etc. And epoxy isn't paint, you are not going to make a nice edge with tape.

After a year of this, then go back and improve any rods you feel are not up to snuf. I found the rods I was not happy with spacing were mostly factory rods and went back with new guides and optimized spacing.Thread Master lite, ProKote and Flex Coat Lite. You may like high build. Everyone has a different preference which is normal.

as you get down the road in building , you will improve in all aspects of building , it just take time to do it , there is no magic pill to make it all fall in place for you , all of the suggestions
above will work , as time goes on you will take some, throw some out , make your own , as it is what "" works for you "" , good luck on your builds ,
just practice , practice , PRACTICE , & PRACTICE is what it takes remember this is ## 2 not ## 52 .. good luck

William Sidney
AK

I modeled this rod off my fenwich elite tech smallmouth pro.. Its my favorite rod, the best rod ive ever bought... My goal is to make every rod better then the last obviously.. But im making that my benchmark.. I contemplated cutting the blank down to 6'9", but figured it is my second rod.. My first rod i did a chevron wrap.. Came out 10x better then i ever expected it too.. I wish i could add pics... Fly tying for many years i think helped with wrapping the guides.. I have no problem with them.. The current build has a balance point on the threads of the reel seat.. Im nist picking your brains.. Lol i will coat it tonight, fish it, give a report back...does the rod need to be level when you coat? Or can it be on a sloght angle tip down? Im not sure if it matters... I know its leveling, but does it pull that much?

Ps sorry of there are typos toward the end of this message, my phone wont let me scroll down to see what im writing lol

Anthony

Level it !!!

Rog

And yes, the rod should be as close to dead level as possible when on the dryer. Stick with the suggested spacing with the 1st 3 from the reel with the microwaves. put the runners where they're needed, and there's only one way to determine that.

Im guessing static placement?

I have to say.. Wow guys.. Thank you all so much.. Im really glad i joined this board...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/18/2018 05:21PM by Anthony Unger.

Got it on the 1st guess. I'm glad you joined also, keeps us old guys from getting stuck in the mud.

What you call "waves" in the finish, or what looks like "hills and valleys where the hills are high points or rings around the blank, are most frequently the result of excess finish. And it is a fine line between enough finish to cover and too much. It's a learned by experience thing.

Try this. Get the finish as level as you can pushing / pulling finish length wise of the blank. Then, instead of using the dryer, rotate the rod by hand 180 degrees once every minute for 10 minutes. With a bright light behind the rod you should see the depth of the finish. Watch it like a hawk and if you see (or when you see) a "hill" or "ring" forming on the bottom of the rod wick off the excess. After ten minutes rotate the rod by hand every two minutes and continue to watch for the hills or rings and wick if necessary. Then put the rod in the dryer, monitor for a third, ten minute period, and you should be home free.

The medium viscosity ProKote gives you about a generous 45 minute open or working time at room temperature of 68 to 72 degrees. If you stop applying finish 30 minutes after mixing you've got time to make corrections and wick off excess finish.

That is some really good advice on coating.. I just got done puting the first coat on.. Honestly it looks (atleast now) like that should do it.. The only complaint i have on how the finish came out is with those small guides i got a fair amount forward... Havent gotten the angle to keep the prokote tight to the guide foot yet... Other the that, its came out really nice.. Cant wait to get the thing on the water.. I figure ill let ot spin over night.. That should give it about 12 hours..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/18/2018 09:26PM by Anthony Unger.

Still a rookie myself...coming up on 2 years and 3 dozen rods. Took a few rods to get a perfect finish, and a few after that to get consistently perfect finishes. Higher speed has made all the difference for me as far as clean lines and keeping the coats as thin as possible, but my first 2 dozen were finished with the same dryer you're using. Thin coats is the answer, and as level as possible. Try everything you've read above, keep what works for you, and make notes from every build.
I still fish with the first rods I built...not as pretty, but I'm the only one who notices! You're going to find the info gained from this forum will quickly take you to the next level on every future build. The only thing you won't learn here is how to explain the need for another rod to your significant other! None of us has figured that out yet!

Lol... Thats why i have 2 jobs... Lol... I use my first rod for catfish.. In fact, im on my way to the water now..

So what must i do... Create a account for the picture page and post a link?

I have a few scratchs from the carbon fiber id like to get off.. Might try 2000 grit... Any suggestions on a polishing compound? Its a matte rod... I might just leave it as is...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/19/2018 12:55AM by Anthony Unger.

Anthony,
If you have a few scratches on a bare blank that has no finish on it, just grab various grades of sandpaper, starting at about 600 grit going up to 2000 grit.

Take a bucket of warm water and set the blank in the bucket. Then, frequently dip the wet and dry sand paper in the water and sand lengthwise on the grip to work out any scratches and leave you with a perfect blank

Do a final follow up with a bit of soapy water and a paper towel or rag to clean out any sanding dust or slurry off the rod and follow up with a warm rinse of water.

Then, leave the blank standing vertically for a few hours to be completely dry before starring to do any building work on the blank.

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