About to build first rod, and gathering components. How do I determine what Reel Seat size to purchase, especially if I dont have blank on hand at the moment.

Also, If i will be using on a 325-500 gram Jigging Rod, is a graphite reel seat acceptable, or should I go for all metal? Will be used exclusively in salt water.

Thanks!

I don't know about the size but the graphite is better suited for salt water up to about 40 lbs line I think

William Sidney
AK

Paul,
You want to use the reel seat that fits the hand as long as it is large enough to go over the rod blank.

Rod blanks are sold with butt diameter and tip diameter measurements. If the reel set will fit over the butt of the rod, it will fit over the blank further up the blank.

With smaller blanks - the typical reel seat is generally much larger than the rod blank and an arbor is used to fit between the blank and the inside of the reel seat.

Good luck

Thanks for the replies. I found some youtube videos, which used the masking tape method, so this doesn't look to difficult now. Thanks!

Reel seat arbors are superior to masking tape. Some reels fit some reel seat styles, sizes, and manufacturers better than others. I think the reel seat is often overlooked as a vital part of custom rod building. Reel seat size also matters for both. Nothing feels better than the perfect fitting reel seat that does not come lose and fits the hand perfect. What I have discovered, at least for me, the Fuji DPSD reel seats size 22 work great for spinning reels that would be used on that rod and Alps aluminum size 22 seats work well with most conventional jigging reels. Similar brands and styles should fit somewhat similar but I am reluctant to state that without knowing for sure. You can use a reel clamp without worry on an aluminum reel seat. I am conscious about how much I tighten a clamp on the graphite seats.

Thanks Scott. Just FYI, but I have several Shimano Trevalla's with the Fuji Graphite reel seats. All of them have reel clamps, and I made a special tool to tighten the snot outta them also. I took a wood chisel, that was the same width as the screws used on reel clamp, I then took a grinder and made the chisel into a screw driver, then hollowed out the center. This makes those screws go on real tight, even after the screw starts to protrude from the middle. I also have a pair of channel locks, that has rubber gripped teeth on the inside of mouth, I use that to tighten the reel seat screw cap, and they never come loose, in fact, you have to have the pliers to remove them, no human has enough grip to loosen these suckers by hand.

Thanks Paul. I am likely overly cautious about over tightening clamps and collars on graphite reel seats.

I've never had a problem with a Fuji seat with a full arbor under it. I've also went on trips where I forgot the clamps and have had no problems with the reel coming loose. I think the material seizes on itself, for a better word, unlike metal.