Hi guys,

Ive had this AT power wrapper for about 4-5 years now with pretty consistent use. I love it, but noticed that over time, I have had to gradually dial up the power over time to get the same power and control that I usually work with. Now I am at the end of the dial and its where I want it for now, but I fear Im just going to lose power in the near future.
So far I have:
- cleaned all connections
- changed the o-ring
- taken the pedal apart and cleaned the connections in there
Eventually I figure I'll have to replace a part, but I'm not sure if I should change the motor, rheostat, or the pedal. What do you guys think? Anyone experience this?

Thanks,
Nick

Open up the motor. Check brushes. Sand the dark stuff off the commutator. If it is the typical sewing machine type motor, your sewing machine repair shop will have new brushes if needed.

I spent many an hour in my dad's truck repair shop repairing starters and generators (remember them??). Putting the armature in the Little South Bend lathe and turning the commutator to round it up and get to fresh copper was the first step. Installing new brushes was the second step. And new bearings & bushings.


I still have the 1907 South Bend, handy little thing:

It could be the bearings [ DRY ] little oil will help that , how is the power supply [ voltage } , takes a min to check it ,
spin the motor by hand to see if it mover freely [ no belt ] as some thing could be binding , dragging , just an idea ,

William Sidney
AK

Nick,
In addition to the comments about dirty brushes and stuck bearings, both excellent ideas.
p.s.
When ever I lube up a motor like this one, I like to use sewing machine white turbine oil. It does not oxidize over time and turn to gum as happens with other oils.

But, in addition, a quick check of motor condition is to disconnect the motor power lines and connect the disconnected motor power lines directly to the end of an extension cord. Then, plug in the extension cord into your 110v wall socket and verify that the motor turns at its expected full speed.

You can do this both before checking the brushes and for dry bearings and then checking again afterward.

If you find that you are not getting full power - especially after checking the brushes and bearings you can assume that the motor has gone bad and is time for a new one.

However, if you do find that you do not get the full expected speed when plugging directly into line voltage, you then have to decide if it is the foot pedal or the speed controller.

So, the next thing to do is to bypass the speed controller and just put the foot pedal in line with the motor. If you now, can use the foot pedal to go from 0-full speed, you know that the foot pedal is all right.

Then, disconnect the pedal and connect only the speed controller in line with the motor and verify the operation of the speed controller.

So, you have a defective motor - in the form of bad brushes, dry or defective bearings, or a bad armature or a combination of the afore mentioned items.
Or, you have a bad pedal that can be resolved by purchasing a new pedal.
Or, you have a defective speed controller that can be resolved by purchasing a new speed controller.

The following picture may be of help if you have a connection issue:

[www.google.com]:

The first picture shows the connection of the motor to the plug.
The 2nd picture shows the connection to the plug, to the pedal to the motor.
If you were to test the speed controller, you would substitute the speed controller for the pedal.

Best of luck

Nick,
If you don't mind - when you get things back to normal, can you let us know what you found to restore the unit to correct operation?

Thanks everyone, Ill have to take it apart when I get off work. I have some trouble shooting to do especially with all the great suggestions. Keep posted for the update. I may end up just getting a new motor.