What I have is a rod turner set up for drying.

I have a motor and want to use it for doing the wraps.

What I want to do is find approximately 1/4in shaft with bearings that I can attach it a board and put a pulley on one end and something to hold the rod on the other end.

Any one know where to find any of this (shaft, pulley or rod holder)?

Lee,
Over the years, I have built many variations of a power wrapper.

After building, using and then changing; this is the headstock and chuck that I use for all of my wrapping:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This head stock was built; using plastic cutting board for materials. It uses a 1/2 inch keyless chuck to hold the rod blank or to hold the 3 inch taig chuck. The Taig chuck is mounted on a 1/2 inch shank that has a 1/2 inch plain shaft on one side and 3/4x16 threads on the other side. The 3/4x16 threads accomodate the taig chuck for assembly and disassembly.

To hold the chuck the 3/4 inch nylon cutting board has a hole bored on each side to accommodate the 1/2 inch bearings that are pressed in from each side to provide the bearings and stability for the chuck.
On the end of the motor and on the end of the chuck, there are 2 inch XL cogged pulleys, to accommodate an XL cogged belt to drive the chuck from the DC motor that is located inside the pvc pipe under the chuck.

The DC motor is connected to a 24 volt variable voltage power supply that is controlled by a foot pedal to allow for hands free operation. It is strong enough for wrapping rods, but has insufficient power to do any grip turning for shaping corki.

For that job, I use a better tool - which is a wood lathe.

Here is a picture of a wrapper made by Wylie Wiggins:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I traded a headstock and power unit to him for an interesting illuminated rod blank.

The power unit is a Dayton right angle drive AC/DC motor that is reversible and its speed is controlled by a foot pedal. At the time of these builds, these units were available on the surplus market for very little money. If you can find them now, there are rather expensive.
Wy,lie did the rest of wrapper building as he describes:

Good luck

Lee,
If you want a decent functional unit, it is tough to come up with a wrapper that you build for much less money than you would have to pay for a built up commercial unit on the used market.
The commercial units have already gone through the development issues of which you have and at the end of the day, you will have spent similar amounts of money.

Your choice.

Here are other examples of wrapper power units that I have built over the years and all worked all right.

[www.rodbuilding.org]
This headstock used a stock Taig head stock on which is mounted a stock 3 inch 3 jaw Taig chuck which is an excellent chuck used by various manufacturers for rod wrapper head stocks. The chuck is powered by a DC motor on which there is an xl cogged belt driving an xl cogged pulley that is mounted on the shaft of the head stock.

This is a picture of a power unit that is powered by a sewing machine motor, connected to a jack shaft and pulleys for speed reduction. A chuck is on the back side of the shaft that is shown with the large pulley:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is a picture of a power unit that uses a Cedar post for the main mount. It uses the main shaft from a sewing machine, including the clutch and belt from the sewing machine as well as an added jack shaft for further speed reduction. This unit drives a small 2 inch chuck which was not really very functional for rod building; but ended up being a good source of power for a fishing line - line winder machine.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Sources for parts included on line sources, surplus stores, used tool shops, pawn shops and junk stores. Lots of different ways to accomplish the tasks that you are wanting to do.

See you made it Lee , great people here an just rod building, an Roger is an excellent source of know how on this type of info you are looking for

William Sidney
AK

Lee

Our DL713 is what we have in our shop for wrapping any rods we build and it works great. The direct drive motor eliminates all the hassles of pulleys and rubber belts, and you can manually reverse it if you need to. Many belt driven motors have trouble with this. Foot control included. Also, the motor comes with a lock so that you can use the centerline of the wrapper as a guide alignment tool. The control board is ergonomically laid out with two thread tension devices and tall V uprights that give you plenty of room to work. Interrupted in the middle of a wrap, no problem, the motor will hold the tension enough to walk away in the middle. MADE IN THE USA. Check it out on our website

[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

[www.rodbuilding.org] That is the pulley I am Looking for Where did you get it and the shaft it is mounted on?
As for the cost by the time I get it done I'll have less than $50 in it unless I go with a different motor.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2018 09:12PM by Lee Semon.

[www.servocity.com] I buy a lot of items their, Great service!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2018 10:33PM by Jay Dubay.

Lee,
What are you using for speed control? Do you have a foot pedal? What motor are you using for the unit?

Your post of the pulley was not successful. Can you refer to it again?

-------------------------------
An example of a keyless chuck and 1/2 inch arbor to mount the chuck:
[www.amazon.com]

Here are some 1/2 inch bearings to support the chuck.
[www.amazon.com]

Your choice of pulleys and belts:
[www.google.com]

Do you have a reversing switch on your motor to back up and correct mistakes?

Good luck and happy building.

I use a sewing machine motor with a foot peddle and I want to slow it down and give a little more powder to the wrapper.

Lee,
I went that route initially, many years ago.
Hence the pictures of some of my first units using double jack shafts to slow down the speed of the 5000 rpm sewing machine motor.
Although it worked, I still was not satisfied.

That is why I eventually migrated to small DC gear motors. DC gear motors are small, have a lot of torque and have a gear train built into the end of the motor. Thus, one can purchase inexpensive DC gear motors with a final outspeed of nearly any rpm.

For wrapping motors, I typically use either 500 or 1000 rpm motors, depending on the user and the application.

Dc motors also have the nice property of being reversible with the reversal of the dc voltage to the power leads. The flipping of the input dc voltage is easily accomplished by the use of a reversal switch.

----------------
I also went the route of investigating all of the different ways to hold a rod at the end of a shaft, as you are wishing to do. Eventually, I settled on the use of a quality Taig machinist chuck for exactly the same reason that several other commercial power wrapper manufacturers have also settled on the same chuck. The chuck is relatively inexpensive - i.e. $70, tough, various jaws are available for the chucks and of high quality for long term durability.

Best of luck in your search for the power wrapper of your dreams.

Be safe

p.s.
You can search the pictures on the rod building forum for different ideas on less expensive chucks that do work for low and intermittent use if you have to absolutely minimize your $$$$.
You can also do some searching of on line sources for other ideas.

But, at the end of the day, it is tough to beat coming back to a quality chuck.

p.p.s.
Since you indicated that you already have a dryer, what are you using to hold your rod, when you dry the rods. in fact, the flex coat dryer chuck actually makes a pretty good chuck for a power wrapper that is reasonable in price and comes with a sleeve that will slip over and lock onto a 1/4 inch shaft, if you want to go that route.

[flexcoat.com]

[www.mudhole.com]

For the drier I bit the bullet and got an AMERICAN TACKLE ROD BUILDING DRYER.
The rod wrapper I first built about 20yrs ago but it went some where about 10 yrs ago had a sewing machine motor on it. and the one I have now is man powder by hand. I am building a new one from maple. I'll try to post a pic. of it when I get it done just missing a few things I think I'll have it going next week.

Lee,
I appreciate your initiative.

I just wanted to share the design that I use for my current rod rests:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Over the years, I used a lot of different designs for rod rests. I finally came up with this very simple rod rest because it is easy to make, works very well, and it allows me to have my hands under the rod directly under the rod rest, if I need to wrap in that location.
It is made of aluminum bar stock, 5/16th inch bolts, skate board ball bearings, O rings, and nylon cutting board for the base. I like to use nylon since it is easy to machine, inexpensive and needs no finish work and is stable and does not warp or crack.

Lots of different ways to do it, but make the wrapper the way that you want to make it and then enjoy it as you use it to make the rods of your dreams.

Be safe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/23/2018 10:45PM by roger wilson.