Hi all,

I have found this site to have answered many beginner questions , both the FAQ and forum. Two things I haven’t found that I hope someone can answer before I start my first rod build:

I bought titanium coated guides (I fish primarily saltwater) . After filing/grinding to get a smooth transition, obviously the coating has been damaged. Do I need to re-coat or protect them somehow? Or will the epoxy that is applied over the thread wraps protect from corrosion? I assume the epoxy is enough, just want to be sure.

The second question I have found info on. But I found lots of different opinions, and lack experience to decide, so I though I would ask here. I have some “marine epoxy” left over from another project. Is that acceptable for the reel seat and cork handle? It says it forms a waterproof bond in fresh or saltwater.

Thanks for any info.

Phil,
Especially with salt water guides, do yourself a favor and do not grind or file on the guides. Work with the guides to get a perfect wrap without doing any grinding or filing on the guides.
You can use a sharpie, to recolor the guides, but that does not give you much protection. But, if you do a good job of coating the guides, including the tunnels, you will be in good shape.

Any two part epoxy that has the thickness, or thinness that you need for the job and cures completely - no matter the age or brand will work just fine to assemble fishing rods.

But, for guide coating, please use one of the excellent 2-part thread coating epoxies that are sold for this specific purpose.

Good luck

Thanks! I will see about not grinding/filing the guides. I did buy the rod dancer epoxy kit, so I should be good to go. Thank you for the feedback

If your "marine epoxy" is a paste type product, you may find it difficult to easily use in what should be fairly close fitting assemblies. A thinner viscosity product, or a gel type epoxy, might be easier for you to use.

............

Roger,

Use a chloride free sharpie, or the late Bill Stevens will promptly dismiss you from the craft ;-) I've greatly missed reading Bill's thoughts and ideas.

Phil,

Chlorides will react with stainless steel to produce micro fractures. On the tip of a guide foot, it is largely immaterial, but in high wear parts it can prove catastrophic.

As far as the marine epoxy, as long as it's an adhesive epoxy, it should do just fine for bonding grips and reel seats. As a new builder, try to avoid 5 minute epoxies. You just won't have enough time to place the part align, double and triple check before the epoxy starts to set.

Phil,
You received very good advice from qualified veteran rod builders. Deviating too much from the advice from such can be risky.
Roger, do SOLID Ti saltwater guides also fall into your “No dressing of the feet” as well? If so, please afford explanation.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Generally, with many of today's very well made guides, there is really no reason to do anything to them; except to fasten them to the blanks , wrap and coat them.

In general, if you can do without putting a mark, grinder, or file oln the guide foot - you will have the guide as originally designed by the guide manufacturer for maximum guide live and durability.

Good luck

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Roger,
>
> Use a chloride free sharpie, or the late Bill
> Stevens will promptly dismiss you from the craft
> ;-) I've greatly missed reading Bill's thoughts
> and ideas.
>
> Phil,
>
> Chlorides will react with stainless steel to
> produce micro fractures. On the tip of a guide
> foot, it is largely immaterial, but in high wear
> parts it can prove catastrophic.
>
> As far as the marine epoxy, as long as it's an
> adhesive epoxy, it should do just fine for bonding
> grips and reel seats. As a new builder, try to
> avoid 5 minute epoxies. You just won't have
> enough time to place the part align, double and
> triple check before the epoxy starts to set.

Correct Joe. Sharpie markers will cause corrosion on guides that were ground. Painting them with testers or similar paint is the preferred way.

Low chloride industrial type paint markers will work also. I believe if you just coat them with epoxy and get an airtight seal and the epoxy doesn't crack you will be alright. I don't believe the introduction of chlorides at low temperatures (below 140 F) and minimal stress will cause micro structure fractures but rather galvanic corrosion due to the higher ferritic content of the material that SS guides are made from. Just saying.