I'm looking for the weight in grams or ounces for the 1:1 ratio of Threadmaster epoxy, regular and lite.
If anyone knows this I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you for your time,

~ Mark

Hello Mark.

It's just equal amounts of hardener and resin, I use either a 3 or 10 cc syringe, I have 2 of each and so I don't get the 2 halves in the same syringe 1 is painted black and the other is painted red.
Most sellers of epoxy will sell you some syringes in whatever size you like.



Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Mark J. Mire Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm looking for the weight in grams or ounces for
> the 1:1 ratio of Threadmaster epoxy, regular and
> lite.
> If anyone knows this I would greatly appreciate
> it.
>
> Thank you for your time,
>
> ~ Mark

46 grains hardener : 54 grains resin.

Thank you very much Jay and Bob!

~ Mark

Mark,
You can call thread master and ask them the specific weight of the resin and of the hardener
If you wish to mix the resin and hardener by weight, you will need the information.

Or, you can also do the following:

Take two identical empty syringes and weigh each syringe on your sensitive scale that you are going to use for weighing.

Then, since the resin and hardener are to be mixed equally by volume, pull say - 5 ccs of material into each syringe. Then, measure each syringe individually.

Then, subtract the weight of each syringe from the measured weight.

Then, divide the weight by the number of CCs in the syringe.

Now, you will have the weight of the resin and the weight of the hardener by weight per CC of material.

So, if you decide to mix up a lb of resin, you will know how much weight of hardener you need to put with it.

-------------
But the manufacturers already have that information, so a simple e-mail or phone call will answer the question.

For large volumes of materials that need to be mixed - weight is a very good way to measure materials for mixing.

But, for small volumes, like we all use for building rods, then the use of volume is an easier and more repeatable way to measure the materials.

Good luck

p.s.
The other very simple thing to do, is to take two brand new bottles - that are each identical to each other - of a new batch of thread master finish.
Weigh each of the filled bottles of material. Each of the bottles will be identical in size, so the difference is weight will be the difference between the weight each of the materials.
But to be complete, you will also need to weigh an empty bottle so that weight can be subtracted from the full weight to know the real actual weight of each of the materials.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2018 11:08AM by roger wilson.

Wilson, great idea about the new full bottles. I didn't consider this!!!!!

Well, I called Scott at Rod Dancer and he had no clue. I thought he purchased the patent rights from Andy for ThreadMaster, therefore I thought he would know that information about his product.
If I need to contact someone else I wouldn't know who. When I get home I will look on the bottle for a manufacturer phone number, maybe my whole premise is wrong.
So yes, that was my first instinct, go directly to the source.

Such basic information, weight measurements is so much more accurate!

Thank you very much, I appreciate all your information.

~ Mark

My personal opinion is that you will find the syringe method best. When weighing you are adding possibilities of something going wrong. I'm betting no two bottles will remain the exact same weight each time you order. I guess you could check that theory by weighing several different bottles. Might be that a slight difference in measuring vs weighing makes no difference in consistency but i wouldn't risk it, that's just me. YMMV

Why not just use equal volumes, as Bob and Terry suggest. To me that is the easiest way to go. If you really want to use weight rather than volume when mixing your finish, just weigh an equal volume of each. This should be simple since you obviously have a scale. To get a good volume measurement, I put color coded Yorker caps on my Threadmaster bottles, and add resin and hardener to separate color coded syringes with the plungers removed. I do this by putting my gloved finger under the syringe nipple and filling the syringe to the desired volume. I then insert the plunger and squirt the contents into the mixing container. This should give very accurate measurements. However, Jay gave you the weight ratios of hardener to resin, which is 0.852. In other words, 1 oz of resin would require 0.852 oz of hardener, or I gm of resin would require 0.852 gm of hardener. In my experience Threadmaster is the most forgiving of measuring errors of all the finishes I have used.
Norm

Got it, thank you all very much for your time and input.
The syringe method is proven to work great for many years with many highly experienced rod builders.
I sincerely respect that!

Although, I find using weight I eliminate messy syringes. Put cup on scale, put in the amount of weight for each product and voila, i'm done and never touched 2 syringes!
And to boot, far more accurate.

Now the intangible variable is the confidence in your numbers; equal amount the eye confirms! I fully understand we aren't reloading explosives, rocket science, or brain surgery.
And having to figure it out by weighing the bottles, jury rigging measurements to equal weights was precisely the reason I thought the manufacturer would be the first and foremost expert on their product.

I simply like less steps and less mess.

Thanks all!

Mark J. Mire Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Got it, thank you all very much for your time and
> input.
> The syringe method is proven to work great for
> many years with many highly experienced rod
> builders.
> I sincerely respect that!
>
> Although, I find using weight I eliminate messy
> syringes. Put cup on scale, put in the amount of
> weight for each product and voila, i'm done and
> never touched 2 syringes!
> And to boot, far more accurate.
>
> Now the intangible variable is the confidence in
> your numbers; equal amount the eye confirms! I
> fully understand we aren't reloading explosives,
> rocket science, or brain surgery.
> And having to figure it out by weighing the
> bottles, jury rigging measurements to equal
> weights was precisely the reason I thought the
> manufacturer would be the first and foremost
> expert on their product.
>
> I simply like less steps and less mess.
>
> Thanks all!

Get yourself a decent scale that measures in grains. Weigh 3'cc's of hardener and 3cc's of resin. Repeat several times to confirm your readings. Works well for me.

MEssy syringes just tells everyone you don't store your epoxy properly, for $4 you get the bottle tops that the syringes get stored in, and you never have to clean them up. ever. And you can easily and accurately mix a 1/2 CC as well as 5CC's and anything in between without having to do a conversion. But, to each their own, it wouldn't be rodbuilding if people didn't make things harder than they have to be.

Billy! lol..if it,s too easy, that would make us less talented in others eyes..

Yorker caps is what I call them, Right Billy!!! [www.mudhole.com]

I’m with Billy.
Or depending of the brand you can drill a 4mm hole in the bottle top.

Seringues stored, no cleaning between uses, you simple but the bottle (with seringue) down and stir the amount you need (with no air in).

Simple and efficient.

________________________________________
@+
Eric
[www.emfishing.fr]

I measure by weight; with a digital scale, which is dead on accurate at the bottom end of the scale, and does not show any measurable inaccuracy unril it gets near 9000 grains; the top end of the scale. I had this unit tested by a friend; who is a certified metrologist. And, that is not a guy who makes guesses about the weather.

I had the three varieties of epoxy i use tested for specific gravity in the campus lab, at the college whre I taught for 25 years. Results as follows. I also did the weight test using new, full bottles that Roger suggested, and those reults matched the measured values.

Weights in grains, ratio = hardener/resin.

Threadmaster lite. 8/9

Flexcoat lite. 6/7

These two produce a small mix. Enough to cover a set of guides.

Flexcoat Rodbuilders glue 10/12. Enought to glue on a 10" grip or a reel seat, but not enough for both.

You can argue for ever about accuracy. My thoughts are a cerified digital scale in inherently more accurate than eyeballing the scale marks on a syringe. But, as long as your method produces acceptable results, ther's no point in fixing what ain't broke.

I couldn't agree with you more.

Thank you very much for your time, and sharing your expertise!
I really appreciate it!

~ Mark J Mire