Hi folks , yeah me again , i know i know but throwing this question out anyway hoping Norm or another member takes the bait. I have the KL 25 H -KL12 H and a 7L as a reduction train on a relatively stiff 9 foot rod which will transition into 1 KB 6 and a few KT 6 runners out to the tip . It seems to cast just fine and looks OK but i also have a 8 M and 6M guide and just curious if i should go to a 6 M instead of the 7L as the last reduction guide , it's a tad bit higher but i have not tested it yet .

Most groups i see for the KR concept goes from a 25 H or 20 H to a 12 M or 10 M and then a 5.5 . Size 6 runners is the smallest i want to go .


Thank you

Set up the first two guides where you think they should be, then the third. Choose the guide and spacing that allows you to achieve the "target/bullseye" look when sighting down the guide train. No problem with size 6 runners. I might use two or three KB's for the greater strength of their foot. But having said that, I've never had a KT fail.

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Set up the first two guides where you think they
> should be, then the third. Choose the guide and
> spacing that allows you to achieve the
> "target/bullseye" look when sighting down the
> guide train. No problem with size 6 runners. I
> might use two or three KB's for the greater
> strength of their foot. But having said that,
> I've never had a KT fail.


Thanks for the reply Michael



Thats my dilemma , the 7L 8M and 6M all show a bullseye pattern , the 7L is the one with the least height but it's one ring size larger than the running guides , i doubt you would be able to tell a 7L from a 6L positioned in the same spot . Probably making a big deal over nothing .

Do not know reel of line size, but I assume you have that part figured out. Try a four guide reduction group KL25H, KL12H, KL8M, and KL7L, or KL25H, KL12H, KL7M, KL6L. Either one of these should transition nicely to KB/KT 6 runners. The fourth guide (KL7L or KL6L) would be in the choke guide position. Since you already have the KL8M and KL7L try these. With a smaller reel and lighter braid could also try KL20H, KL10H, KL7M, KL6L. This would also work.
Norm

Thanks a lot Norm , you're the best .

The old guy sure saves me a lot of time! Ha!

Old Guy! Only as old as you feel, HA!
Norm

Just because there's snow on the roof, doesn't mean the fire is out in the furnace!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I think this is interesting because Fuji stated there system is an effort to reduce reduction guide number and bring the choke guide closer to the reel and they are doing this especilly with braids but with braids it,s amazing how much closer you can get with the lighter lines..i made an ultra light with just a butt guide then to the choke which was a BLAG6 then BLAG4 runners..i know technickly the 6 is not a choke..anyway, to reduce the line,s twirl i positioned the butt guide to choke the line also or about half as much as the #6 guide..i only used 2# fireline but it cast #8 zonker type flies way better than a fly rod..i never tried a heavier line just to see if this guide arrangement would work because i gifted the rod to a friend and cut way back on fishing and rod making..

I think this is interesting because Fuji stated there system is an effort to reduce reduction guide number and bring the choke guide closer to the reel and they are doing this especilly with braids but with braids it,s amazing how much closer you can get with the lighter lines..i made an ultra light with just a butt guide then to the choke which was a BLAG6 then BLAG4 runners..i know technickly the 6 is not a choke..anyway, to reduce the line,s twirl i positioned the butt guide to choke the line also or about half as much as the #6 guide..i only used 2# fireline but it cast #8 zonker type flies way better than a fly rod..i never tried a heavier line just to see if this guide arrangement would work because i gifted the rod to a friend and cut way back on fishing and rod making..