So the other day i was paid to haul away items for a customer and she had an old sewing machine bench unit. It has the motor down below the bench and the belt coming up through the table. Where can i find a pulley and chuck that i can mount to make this my rod wrapping bench? I ll try to figure out how to post pics

Chuck can be made fron a PVC end cap and a couple thumb screws. Try Grainger or FLexcoat for Pulleys

Chuck can be made fron a PVC end cap and a couple thumb screws. Try Grainger or FLexcoat for Pulleys

Chuck can be made fron a PVC end cap and a couple thumb screws. Try Grainger or FLexcoat for Pulleys

Chuck can be made fron a PVC end cap and a couple thumb screws. Try Grainger or FLexcoat for Pulleys

Jeremy,
On line @#$%& sites. On line hardware sites. Amazon.

However, you might be money and time ahead to just start from scratch. You can make a very simple compact rod builder for very little money if you choose to that will do a much better job for you and be easier to set up than a sewing machine type setup.

It is your choice.

[www.google.com]

This is a picture of one of my first power wrapper power units, using a sewing machine motor, skate board bearings and wood to create the headstock.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is another picture of a headstock unit that I made from a different sewing machine motor and the original sewing machine main shaft and the sewing machine pulley. This particular setup had the added feature of being able to loosen the nut on the end of the shaft, to let the shaft slip when needed if hand wrapping and not getting any resistance from the drive system.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This one was made from a Cedar Fence post, skate board bearing and associated parts. The chuck was a mini chuck that I picked up on line.

Both of these items are long gone, because I have developed units that work better for my needs.

Feel free to drop me an e-mail if you have any questions.

Good luck.

Thx Barry, your starting to act like my wife, I heard you the first time. LOL

Both of those look like nice set ups, I already have my V blocks and thread center, I cant believe I didnt think of granger. Thank you Roger

Jeremy,
Granger is a fine expensive supplier.

You can do some looking and find a lot of sources that are much less expensive. You can look at surplus stores, pawn shops and used tool shops for what you need.

Good luck

Jeremy,
Another option is to take a rechargeable 18 or 24 volt variable speed drill with a 2 speed selector. Then, power it with an appropriate power supply, bolt the drill down to the bench with the battery removed, replace the speed controller with a pedal and go to work.

You can take a piece of solid stock and insert it into the chuck of the drill to insert into the butt of the rod blank when building new rods with no butt cap on the rods. After building, glue on a butt cap and you will be good to go.

I built this many years ago. It has since gone to the drill happy hunting ground, but it helped me a lot over the years.
At the time, I think that I paid $2 for the drill. I stripped out the motor, gear train and chuck and mounted it into a wood base and then powered it by an old power supply that I had obtained from a scrapped out electric organ at no cost.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Here is a picture of the wrapper bed made from a 1x6. The rod rests are made from aluminum and shower door rollers. Likely about $10 in the bed and rod rests.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Good luck



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2018 09:37PM by roger wilson.

Jeremy/ All

a friend & I are embarking on a similar project, using a sewing machine motor & controller as drive - looking at Jeremy's photos, I see you've got a double reduction on the drive, just wondered what your motor speed was originally (ours says 10,000rpm, but unchecked... that's on a list of things todo...) & what max speed you get at the chuck - we were thinking about getting a reduction to a max 3-400rpm, so 25-30:1 reduction. Or do you think there's any advantage in having a bit higher rpm at the chuck, & just holding back on the controller? I guess it's only on long underwraps where a higher speed is likely to get used?

Many Thanks

Martyn

Martyn,

In past years I have built a lot of different power heads for power wrappers. I have ended up with power wrappers with a chuck maximum speed ranging from 200 rpm up to 1500 rpm.

From user experience, I have found that most builders do not use or require a chuck speed more than 600 rpm or so. Most will seldom use a chuck speed over 300 rpm.

However, for wrappers that are very quick and or do not have a lot of fancy wraps but do make long butt wraps prefer a chuck speed up to about 1000 rpm.

I really haven't seen the need at all for a chuck speed over 1000 rpm.

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A typical sewing machine motor runs at top speeds ranging from 5000 to 10,000 rpm. So, the typical reduction required is between 10-30.

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But the real kicker using a sewing machine motor is the ultra slow speed operation of 1-2 reliable rpm. There is a lot of this rpm used in rod wrapping for starting, stopping and or intricate wraps on the rod. So, often the need for speed reduction is not for the maximum wrapping speed required, but the minimum wrapping speed required. In order to get this minimum wrapping speed with a very fast sewing machine motor, often the use of the double or even triple reduction system is required.

Good luck

Roger

thanks for that, your advice confirms what we were thinking, so thanks very much for that

Many Thanks

Martyn

Martyn,
In addition to your thoughts, you can make the job really simple.

Take a DC gear motor with a maximum output speed of 500 rpm. Mount the motor on a simple face plate mount. Mount a light pvc chuck on the shaft like the typical flexcoat dryer chucks. Power the DC motor through a power supply speed controller and foot pedal and you will be set. No added belts, no added speed reduction, no added construction required.

Conceptually, this is what your headstock would look like:

[www.mudhole.com]

The difference would be the use of a different motor, with a guiet gear case and then, a speed controller as shown in the picture would have the potentiometer replaced with one in a foot pedal and be driven by a DC power supply and you would be set. No belts, no pulleys.

Good luck

Thanks Roger, greatly appreciated

Martyn

Thanks Roger, Martyn sorry I just saw you question, those were Rodgers pics but of coarse he took care of you. So many people on this site are awesome and experienced. What a great forum