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reaming cork
Posted by: darrel odland (---.lightspeed.frokca.sbcglobal.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 03:13AM

Guys, Need some advice on how to center my cork pieces when reaming them out. I use a drill with the Alps reamers and do it by hand with each piece. However some of them are not centered, making my job of shaping handle more difficult. ANY advice would be helpful!!
"Bent Rods to ya"
Darrel from CA.

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Matthew Paul (---.lightspeed.milwwi.sbcglobal.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 05:17AM

either buy this [www.mudhole.com]
or make one

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Ron Schneider (---.mid.dyn.suddenlink.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 08:40AM

Try securing the drill in something solid and then rotate the cork slightly as you go thru it.
Do in stages.
One way is to use a large "hose clamp" around the body of the drill and also a 2"x2"x12" piece of strong wood.
Chuck the wood in a vise, or mount it to a bench top.
That should help you from reaming on one side too much.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
Fax 870-425-0782

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Spencer Phipps (---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 09:29AM

Flex Coat Pilot, or Concept Reverse Pilot drill bit/s, than finish with reamer. There was an article in an old RodMaker mag on how to make them, or you can buy one reverse drill bit and just grind your own off that pattern, it's not difficult.
If your original grip's ID is larger than the drill bits shaft on the reverse bit, or the pilot on the original design just add a tape arbor to take up the slop.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2018 09:33AM by Spencer Phipps.

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 09:32AM

The simple answer is cloth gloves.

Cloth gloves you say, why?

The reason for using cloth gloves is that you can hold the grip as you ream it under power and use the cloth gloves to let the grip slip from time to time as you ream. By letting the grip turn a bit ever few seconds, the rotating grip will tend to do a nice job of keeping the hole centered.

In addition, I use the variable speed wired drill simply because I never run out of power and I have the control and speed range that I wish to use. For much of the reaming that I do in cork, I do at a very slow speed. i.e. speeds of 5-200 rpm. I almost never pull the trigger to top speed. I find that faster speed is not necessary and may be detrimental to the job from time to time.

I use a couple of 3/8th and a 1/2 inch corded variable speed drills, held in my lap when I am reaming cork.

I tried using a fixed drill, a drill press, a horizontal fixed drill be always came back to a hand held drill and a hand held grip to do the job most quickly and most efficiently. For the reaming I use a set of circular files that I have modified to handle the reaming needs.
I use the variable speed drill - with the direction set in reverse. By having the drill in reverse, the drill will not try to screw itself into the grip and without reaming or cutting, actually screw itself in and split the cork. But by keeping the drill in reverse one forces the spinning drill into the hole and it does a very nice job of reaming the cork with no issue of splitting the cork. I start with a small file and gradually work to a larger size as needed. In particular, I will use the file to insure that each end of the grip is reamed to the perfect size. Then, if reaming a long grip that can't ream to the center, I will use an appropriate 18 inch aircraft extension bit to drill out the center of the grip to accommodate the center of the grip over the blank.

For example:


Extension bits:


Cloth gloves:

I buy these gloves by the dozen. Any time that I am doing turning, I always wear these gloves. Notice that there is no rubber or anti slip dots or palms on these gloves. The idea of these gloves is to do a couple of things. Keep your hands clean, protect your hands, and if an object needs to slip, you can loosen your grip and the object will slip in the grip of the gloves

Any time that you are working with objects that are spinning in front of you; you really do NOT want a non slip glove on your hand. If you have a non slip glove on your hand, the glove can grab and can easily break a hand or worse. But, with gloves like this, when working with this sort of work, you just loosen the grip and the object can spin, and the glove will protect your hand from the spinning object.

By keeping new gloves on hand, if the gloves become soiled, you toss the glove or gloves and put on another glove or pair of gloves

On the other hand, when working with tools, as in wrenching on a car, I use nitrile, latex, or mechanics non slip gloves to prevent your hands from slipping on the tools. So, I also keep a box of this style gloves on hand as well for the times that I don't want my hands to slip and or keep my hands clean. i.e. any time that I am painting, I keep a pair of nitrile or latex gloves on my hands to keep my hands clean.

Good luck.

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Phil Erickson (---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 12:05PM

Rather than reaming each piece of cork individually, I find it much easier and accurate to glue up the cork pieces and then ream the grip after shaping.

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Bill Sidney (---.gci.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 01:23PM

I find that build the grip , then ream , it works best for me , I do not use files, I use the FLEX COAT reaming tools, the kit with 4 fiberglass rods, an but them in a drill .
don't go to fast, it will heat up, then epoxy will let go then you have to re-glue the sand paper back on , [ new paper each time ]
PS watch out on the direction , you want the grip pushed away from rod , NOT PULLED INTO IT , will split the grip real fast in most cases , you can hold the drill in one hand
with the grip in other , you will get to a point that the feel on the grip will tell you when it is time to clean out the grip , them go back at it , just my way of doing it

William Sidney

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: January 06, 2018 11:27PM

In addition to your excellent comments, it is nice to have a very high powered fan blowing across your work area. That way, whenever you pull the reamer or file out of the grip, the blast of air will quickly disperse the dust and grit. I also keep a blow gun hooked to 120 psi air pressure with a 6 inch piece of pipe hooked to the end to blow through the grip, each time that I remove the reamer. This will continually clear the dust and jam out of the grip being reamed to help keep the tool clean and cutting well.

In times past, I have had a couple of instances where the hole built up to such an extent so that suddenly the tool would grab and split the grip that was being reamed.

Good luck

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: David Baylor (---.neo.res.rr.com)
Date: January 07, 2018 10:35AM

The suggestion that Roger posted about letting the hand held grip slip from time to time to help keep the hole centered is a good one. It works quite well. Also, and I don't know if it really makes a difference or not, but I keep the reamer vertical when reaming. Especially when doing shorter pieces.

And while I have only reamed a few small cork fore grips, the comment shared by more than one, of running the reamer in the opposite direction if its twist, works even better if reaming an EVA grip. While EVA won't split, it will certainly grab on to a reamer. lol

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Bill Sidney (---.gci.net)
Date: January 07, 2018 01:31PM

the most difficult grip for me is the 20 inch spey , [all cork]

William Sidney

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: January 07, 2018 02:02PM

On a long grip like the one you mention, I ream all of the individual cork rings before gluing. I also glue them a touch larger since there will be a slight glue line on the inside of the blank.

Then, when I glue up the cork, I size the threaded rod that I glue up on to be the same size as the rod blank by adding layers of masking tape. The tape keeps the glue nice and tight on the inside of the cork. When removing the grip, I insert the threaded rod into a drill and unscrew the grip from the threaded rod.

After the blank has been shaped, I will use a reamer to ream out the 2 or 3 inches on each end of the rod to the exact size of the blank. i.e. a larger ream on the butt end compared to the tip end of the blank.

Then, I start with a small sized aircraft extension bit that is 25 inches long and drill out the grip from each end. I will gradually go larger and larger with the drill until, I have the butt end of the grip reamed to the size of the butt. Then, I have the tip end of the grip drilled out to be the same size as the tip sided hole in the grip.

This works well and it entails a minimum amount of reaming since the cork rings have been predrilled to be close to the size of the blank before gluing.

Another thing that works well for a 20 inch grip is to cut it in half and then ream each 1/2 separately. When shaping, leave the joint 1/2 inch of each piece a touch larger. Then, after every thing is reamed to fit, with perfect square edges on each end of the piece that has the joint, glue the two pieces together. Then take a couple of minutes to do the final shaping on the lathe for the center inch of the 20 inch grip.

I have found that the 2 piece grip and final assembly gives me the best and most consistently excellent results.

Take care

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Bill Sidney (---.gci.net)
Date: January 07, 2018 05:01PM

thanks Roger it sounds good, a little different than my way but is the same in a lot of ways , I will rethink my way an give it a try on how you do it .

William Sidney

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: Lance Schreckenbach (---.lightspeed.hstntx.sbcglobal.net)
Date: January 09, 2018 12:48AM

Phil Erickson Wrote:
> Rather than reaming each piece of cork
> individually, I find it much easier and accurate
> to glue up the cork pieces and then ream the grip
> after shaping.

This is what I do and use the Alps reamer set with a variable speed portable drill. Just pause and look to make sure the hole is centered before you get it too big. You may have to ream to one side or the other with the smaller taper to even out the hole to center. make sure you look at both ends because you can be holding the grip at an angle and making the hole off center on the other side. I always mark the end that goes toward the but to avoid confusion. For longer grips I use a 5' tapered reamer mounted to my lathe and basically do the same thing.

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Re: reaming cork
Posted by: John Shear (199.116.173.---)
Date: January 09, 2018 12:22PM

Reduce the amount you have to ream.
I'll use a brad point drill bit sized 1/16" or so smaller than the blank diameter. I'll drill a larger, centered hole in each ring and glue up on a steel rod or mandrel. After drying overnight I'll shape it on the power wrapper and remove from the rod (though I have a new lathe I'll use in the future). Then I have a lesser amount of reaming to the blank diameter. With less to ream there is less opportunity to get off-center.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI

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