That link you posted is a great writeup , i have read it 4 different times, three times a few weeks ago and again just now and unfortunately whats recommended for rods over 10 feet does not provide the height that gives me the straight edge effect . Granted i am working with a single guide frame type instead of having many many choices so thats a factor .

If i mixed and matched different frame types i would have been done awhile ago but thats not the case. As Norman noticed in my first post i am missing the one guide that would make this a piece of cake but it only comes in a titanium frame and a different ceramic material . Please don't waste your time with my situation , i don't expect responses and and it doesn't bother me one way or the other.

I find very interesting things written by people in the archives that get few if any responses but i find them extremely helpful.

Herb,
Just as a point of clarification:
The method that I use to line up the guides so that the line essentially brushes the full 360 degrees of the stripper guide is most noticeable during the retrieve of a heavy lure over thousands of casts and retrieves.

i.e. this is a method to insure that on a non bent rod light tension retrieve, that the line is presenting the least amount of friction to the retrieving reel.

As a side product of this guide alignment, the casting distance will also be optimized as well.

Also, your latest comment which spoke of a taunt line to the choker pretty well sums up the method as well. But, in addition to your mention of the line just brushing the top of the stripper guide, you also want it to just brush the bottom of the stripper guide when the reel spool is rotated 180 degrees.

Bottom line - on a light tension straight rod retrieve, you really don't want the line rubbing on the stripper guide. If it rubs on the guide it is going to be a source of friction and thus more effort on a day of a thousand casts as is the case of hard core Musky fishermen who use spinning rods and reels for this purpose.

Good luck

p.s.
You can do another quick experiment to under stand the system a bit better. Set up all of the guides on your rod - with the exception of your stripper guide. Then, with a bit of weight on the line to maintain tension, have the stripper guide threaded onto the line in the approximate location of the guide. Then, with the reel turned to provide the greatest distance of the line from the rod, slide the stripper guide along the rod blank until the line just barely brushes the inside top edge of the guide. Then, temporarily tape the guide in this position. Then, rotate the reel so that the line is as close to the rod blank as it will ever get. Check to see that the line just barely brushes the bottom inside edge of the guide as well.

I think that you will find, that if you do not move any of the other guide sizes or location, and perform the stripper guide location with the correctly sized and height stripper guide that there will only be one spot on the blank where the guide can be located to meet the criteria of the above test.

After doing a few, you will find that the guide placement takes less time that it takes to type this up.

Regarding setting up with heavier line, I have to agree with the logic, but have never tried it. Since I usually use braid of 15 pound test or less on all my spinning rigs it is pretty easy to get a very effective guide train using Fuji KLH with size 20 choker, or 16 if I know I'll never go higher on pound test.

Thanks Roger , will try your recommendations , and thank you mike .