i have been having problems with bubbles or it may be specks of trash on my finished epoxy finish. i smoothe them out with a razor blade and put another finish on it but it still comes back as little high specks. is there any way to buff the finish down with out applying another coat of finish? I use ProKote.

The epoxy will not buff, as it is too soft. Sounds like you may be getting dust on the uncured epoxy.

it could be that and it could be that the resin has crystals in it and even though you mix it properly it still can crystallize before fully curing ? do you warm your finish before mixing and do you pour it on to a piece of foil on a paper plate to disperse the bubbles do you use a brush or a spatula your brush could be contaminated.
it could be little pieces of thread fuzz from burnishing.
I have tried all the different finishes produced and found that Flex coat is and has been the most dependable epoxy finish well at least for me.
the crystals that I am talking about can be invisible to the eye in the bottle and when mixing but show up after mixed and rod is rolling in the dryer .
it is that time of the year again where temp and humidity can affect your finishing.
here is a link to Flex coat how to a refresher you might want to watch
[youtu.be]

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

If it is dust (and even if it's not) check your HVAC and change it unless it's nearly new. If your part of the world is in heating mode, a humidifier to maintain relative humidity at about 30% to 35% can help reduce dust. I use a tent of heavy aluminum foil over turning rods while their finish cures. A drying box would be better. Keep the temperature up as the epoxy cures much quicker at 72 than 68 and thus reduces the time the pesky dust can find the uncured finish. Restrict movement to the extent possible in the finishing area.

Is there a high traffic area above your finishing area? If so those above could be causing loose dirt to fall on your work.

i do appreciate all the advice and help. I do think it might be crystals, but i thought i had it heated too a good temp to were it was really thin, i didnt see but a few bubbles in my mixed epoxy. i watched the video on flexcoat and i loved the high speed turning while putting on the first coat. i have made about 50 rods and this is the first time i have had this problem and this is the third coat i have applied over the decal and rod id sticker. i reckon i will clean it up again and try another coat thats bout all i know to do, again thank you guys for all the help and it was very helpful.

I had a problem once with an epoxy finish over a decal, I added another coat of epoxy and it did not solve the problem. I lightly sanded it smooth but did not want to add another coat of epoxy because of the thickness of the epoxy overcoat. So I top coated this section with Permagloss using a foam brush while turning. Came out great! I have also used Permagloss to restore manufactuer’s labels on old well worn store bought rods with good success.
Norm

i have some Rodancer rod varnish, i do hate to put another coat of epoxy finish on the rod, so so you think i could lightly sand and then apply a coat of this rod varnish that i have?

No No the solvent in the varnish will react with the epoxy and will produce a wrinkled finish
If you not in a hurry order some Perma gloss or luma seal these are both chemical based should be used with adequate ventilation
or there is the Thread Master One from Rod Dancer that is the one I prefer as it is water based and only has a bit of a vinegar smell and gives a high gloss finish and works great over or under epoxy.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

I have not tried the RodDancer one part rod finish. I have been looking for something that will give a thin coat over ink that will not dissolve it and still hold up. Maybe I will give it a try. In the past I have used the one part water base finish sold by Gudebrod, it worked ok but not nearly as hard and durable as Permagloss. I still think Permagloss is great stuff for clear coating and refinishing a rod blank, it is quick, easy and gives a great finish that never yellows or comes off.
Norm

Matthew Paul, i think i will try the ThreadMaster One from Rod Dancer. I assume it will be ok to use it over the name and stickers?

for sure as it is water based and won't cause any bleed of the print and it drys almost as hard as the gloss finish on the blank it is good stuff I use it on my fly rod builds as it goes on thin and 2-3 coats does the trick on them looks just as deep as the epoxy with a lot less added weight than epoxy

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Be Very careful coating over labels, especially old ones with Permagloss.
Or anything like it.
I had a label lift once by simply trying to overcoat.
Now I always use Flex Coat Color Preserver to seal it.
Then anything else over it will not disturb the label (or inscription)

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Reggie,

Do you run an alcohol burner after you are done applying finish? That always gets rid of bubbles for me.

Check out our instructional video here: [www.youtube.com]

Taylor Belinger
Creative
Mud Hole Custom Tackle, Inc
400 Kane Ct. | Oviedo, FL 32765
Phone: 407-447-7637 x 113 | Fax: 407-447-7640

Taylor, i have noticed in all the video's i have watched lately that everyone using a whole lot of epoxy to finish the threads, i have been just mixing up enough to do all my eyes , i reckon i am too conservative. i think it is cystals in my finish atfter i look at my rod today and after i sanded it lightly it i just dont believe it was bubbles. I am going to try the Tthread master one to apply a thin coat over the area i had to redo. do i have to apply the thread master one over the secton of rod or do i just use to touch up the spot i lightly sanded? I use the flexcoat color preserver and i noticed to day when i had the rod out in the sunlight everywhere i use the flexcoat CP it was milky looking under my finish but you could only seee it in the direct sunlight, i have no idea of whats up with that, the is on a CRB orrange rod made up with the Florida Gator theme. i have already learned so much from the few post i have had on this site and i really appreciate all the help, most of what i learn is the hard way by experience even though i did go to a Mudhole rod building class. again i appreciate everyone replying to my post thank you.
Matthew, am i understand you use the thread master one in place of applying an epoxy finsh or did i misunderstand that? and if i use the thread master one to apply over my lightly sanded spots to i just so the spots or i do the whole section over the epoxy finish?
Thanks guys!!!!!

If you warmed the epoxy before applying, I doubt very much if it is crystals! The crystallization is an effect of lower temperatures and is eliminated by warming the epoxy. If it is contamination from dust, changing coating will not solve the problem.

The milky appearance under the epoxy coat could be from incomplete drying of the CP. If it is still damp, it may itself appear milky or can even cause amine blush, which is a cloudy look.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/03/2017 08:40PM by Phil Erickson.