Hello,
I am new to rod building I have built a couple rods. I was recently using one of my custom rods with a Rapala, at the end of the day I put the lure on the hook keeper. When I went to use the rod the next time I noticed the hooks really dug in and gouged my epoxy. I have never had that happen with any of the rods that I have purchased. I am using Pro Kote thread finish epoxy. Should I be using something different for down by the hook keeper that is harder or should I add touch more hardener? I'm very careful to mix the epoxy 50/50 with a syringe. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

One issue that can cause this is not mixing the epoxy totally. I did this just recently, after many years of building. Make sure it's mixed until all the "swirls" are gone. I use a timer for mixing, but have been reminded it's just a guide - it's not mixed until it's totally clear. You should not need to add more hardener - good luck!

Hi Brandon,

Out of curiosity, how long ago did you put that epoxy on the rod?

Take care,

Chris

Brandon

ProKote instructions advise a rod is ready to fish or re-coat after 24 hours. And maybe so. I usually wait 4 days before use as I think the cure is OK after 24 hours but not complete. Of course temperature can cause those times to be extended.

Brandon, adding extra hardener will not make the mix harder. Epoxy doesn't dry, it reacts, a molecule of resin with a molecule of hardener. Putting more of either into the mix will only leave "unused" molecules, which most likely will make the mix less hard, even gummy if the difference between the components is great enough. As others have mentioned, you must mix it thoroughly. To make sure I don't take shortcuts on the mix, I count to 140 as mixing, and don't stop until 140 Period. Because it is easy for me to get impatient.

To prevent all gouging/scratching, you need to design your way out of it . For me, bigger keepers, or no keepers (use the frame of the first guide), and take the lure off when not expected to be used right away. As in, don't travel with lures in the keepers. The good news is that you can always put on another coat, just buff up the old one with scotchbrite pad before applying.

Also, one error beginners often make is to wipe down the blank/threads/etc with alcohol before applying epoxy. That is counterproductive, and the last operation before applying epoxy is to wipe it down with a clean, dry, cloth if it's dusty, but no liquid of any kind.

When I mix up my epoxy I do it for a minimum of 3 minutes with a timer and make sure it is clear and not foggy like the instructions say, if it is still foggy I continue until it is no longer foggy. It usually takes around 4 minutes. (I did a lot of reading on this forum before I started) you guys are awesome and have a lot of very great advice for beginners. So thanks everyone that has put some sort of input or advise on this forum.

Chris and Donald I built this rod back in May and just used it last week for the first time so it had plenty of time to cure.

Michael thank you for the advice of not using alcohol to wipe down the blank. I used alcohol to wipe my rods down before I apply the decals and epoxy. I'm curious do you use any alcohol to wipe the blank down at all? Such as when you first receive the blank and before you do your wrapping?

Brandon,

I have found ProKote to be very soft after it has set up. I use to use ProKote exclusively, but I changed epoxies due to the softness of Prokote.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Brandon, I use no alcohol on new blanks. For the reel seat areas I use Scotch-Brite pads to buff the blank, then wipe the dust off. For the thread areas I do nothing and have never had a problem except for one build where I didn't seal the foot tunnel well enough and the wrap would get foggy looking when exposed to lots of moisture as in a rainy day. I have had no structural issuesd with or without CP.

I use alcohol (90% isopropyl) for cleaning up wet epoxy when epoxying reel seats and grips. I use it generously and have no appearance of the area having had wet epoxy on it. I use a lot of paper towels.

I also have found ProKote to be softer than Flex Coat, and it takes so long to set up that by the time it does I've gotten pretty worried. Leave it alone for at least a day. It does seem to be a very clear epoxy, and it appears to stay clear very well.

Donald R Campbell Wrote:
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> Brandon,
>
> I have found ProKote to be very soft after it has set up. I use to use ProKote exclusively, but I
> changed epoxies due to the softness of Prokote.

When you strive for one quality, you may lose another quality.

Flex Coat and LS Supreme have the blend of qualities that I prefer. (set up time, hardness, clarity)

Don Becker

I have come to the conclusion that i am going to switch to flex coat. I mostly build light panfishing rods, walleye rods and ice fishing rods. Looking at the flex coat which one would you guys recommend? The original high build, lite formula with ultra v, or high build with ultra v?

Brandon good call on the Flex cost. I tried the Pro Kote and for the same reason quite using it. It never seems to harden although it works it is not for me. One the Flex Coat you may want to go with the Hi Build it is easy to use, just warm it up before applying. As to the Ulta V time will tell, it is all I use and I am really pleased with the results. Also a few of the Big names in the business use it as well.

Tom

Brandon,

I'm starting to move away from hook keepers and have lately been using cable mounting ties. They look like a standard 8" nylon cable tie, but have a hole at the end to run wire through. Not as sexy as a gold plated dedicated hook keeper, but but every bit as functional and more versatile. You can find these at most of your big box hardware stores and electrical supply houses in a pack of 12-15. Advantages: cheap, they don't corrode, are almost impossible to break or distort, hold the hook farther away from the rod so hook contact is greatly reduced, you can easily change or replace them. I have seen a couple of guys using these on saltwater rods and I think it's a genius idea. Just select a place where you would have wanted to put your hook keeper, and cinch one down. Check them out; as cheap as they are, you're not out much if you don't like them and still can use them as regular cable ties.

As for epoxy finish, I prefer Flex Coat. I've often used Threadmaster in the past, but I think the Flex Coat seems to do everything well, and better than some.

Dave Sytsma



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2017 11:32PM by David Sytsma.

Brandon, that wear you see tells you something. It drives me nuts to see rods with a keeper over a bare blank. If the hook were not rubbing on the epoxy, it would be rubbing directly on the bare blank and that could lead to real damage. I view those areas of epoxy as sacrificial. Your doing folks a service by protecting their blank. Finishing will become easier as you discover a product you like.

Sounds like the rod was very newly built

Thread finish takes an age to dry and cure hard, it took weeks with my first build for the ''epoxy'' if you want to call it that and if we are talking about the same thing, to dry and set hard