I just plugged my reel measurements into the GPS on Fuji's website to get spacing for the KW. It came out unexpectedly. They are (in distance from each previous guide):

Reel at 0 inches
30 @ 17.3
25 @10.6
20 @7.55
12 @ 6.7
8 @ 5.3

So I've never done a concept layout on a heavy rod like this before, but I have done them on bass and crappie rods. I have never needed 5 reduction guides and I have never gone down a single ring size for any other rod. I usually need 4 (including stripper and choke) reduction guides. And they usually skip (i.e. 25-16-10-6-6-6-6 or 20-12-8-5-5-5-5...you get the point. Going from 30-25-20 seems odd to me.

I just want to get some info on this before I place my order. I'd rather not spend an extra $30 to have every size guide in the series so I can figure it out at home.

Is this normal for heavy spinning rods with large reels?

that doesn't sound right did you enter the info correctly and will it be used for braid , mono , or flor, it seems that it is taking the line curl/ whip factor to the closest distance from the spool.
do you have some guides to experiment with then I would tape them on and flex load the rod with a separate weight and then run a separate line with a lighter weight just enough to pull the line tight and see how it trails through the guides and move them or add accordingly guide placement is not an exacting thing you have to remember that the info you got is a general concept for placement

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

I remember a couple of years ago I tried the NGC GPS at Anglers Resource and got the same crazy stuff you got. Did not like the layout I got. Have not used it since. The KR GPS works very well but NGC GPS in my opinion does not. Maybe we do not know how to use it properly! It also will not open on any of my mobile devices and I do not know if I would trust it even if it did. Now days I mostly use the KR concept for the spin rods I build, rarely use NGC layouts. Their are other ways to figure out a NGC layout. I have my method that works for me but is a little involved to explain here, however the library has two good article that will give good results.
[www.rodbuilding.org]
[www.rodbuilding.org]
Norm

Thanks Norm. I'm perfectly fine using the NGC layouts. When it comes to less expensive guides I usually just buy one of each from the stripper size down to the choker. The ones I don't use only set me back a few bucks. And I can use on a future rod.

The problem here, is this is my first really large spinning rod build, and I don't know what to expect of the layout. I've done enough smaller rods to have a general idea. And I don't have any of these guides laying around. These guides are about $6 - $11 bucks a pop, so I don't want to buy a bunch of guides that end up not going on the rod.

If I had to guess, based on the fresh water rods I've build, I'd go with a 30-20-12-8-8-8-8-8.

How long is your rod? Did not see that in your other post. Your reel is pretty large but you are using 30 lb braid which is very forgiving, and if you are using FUji KW guides I think you should be fine with what you have listed. The KW30 is as high as a size 40 SV or MN., and you can always push it a little forward if needed. Your the reduction train looks good based on height grouping and the size 8 runners should be fine, others may suggest size 10 runners, but I like smaller runners. I think you are set to go.
Norm

Thanks again...I'm laying here in bed with google trying to relearn trigonometry to verify the GPS layout!

I sure wish I lived by mudhole and could just swing by and dry fit at the store!

I believe the GPS software provides a position for each size of model of guide
it does not provide a recommended guide train
it is up to you the determine if 2 or 3 reduction guides and in what sizes fit your build best
the Fuji website provides more of a build recommendation in the KR system section
the info is all there on the anglers resource web
but everything can't be in one place so read all the great articles on the website
and in the FAQ section of this forum
the various concepts and methods will emerge and make more and more sense after reading them all
also Tom sells a CD with just abut every valuable piece of info (and zero bad info) about guide placement all on one CD

Still looking at blanks. In fact I'm about to call mudhole right now. I'd like a 6'6", but depending on the model I choose, I may have to go with a 7 footer.

If I go with a 7 footer, I'll feel out the blank when I get it in. If the action is fast enough, I'll probably cut 3 inches off the butt.

Thanks Bert I guess I wasn't completely clear. I understand what their software provides. I chose the guides in my first post based on spacing. If you notice in the layout, I didn't list the 16 or 10. They were given on the GPS software but didn't make sense on the spacing.

I actually have that CD, and uploaded it to my iPad kindle app. I am fully confident in my ability to place guides. This post is solely about me trying not to buy relatively expensive guides that I don't need.

gotcha
best advice I've read is to buy one of each size guide in the cheapest ring and metal of a model
and use them as fitting guides
once final choice is made buy only what you need in more expensive versions
I build enough with KW and KL guides that it made sense for me

Bert you dont live in SoCal do you? Ha ha!

Don't know your situation, but most builders have old salvage guides as well as new unused guides hanging around. Since guide height is one of the more important attributes for setting up a spinning rod NGC, you could do a mock-up the guide train using guides in hand that match the heights of the guides you want to buy. Makes no difference whether or not they are single ft, double ft, or different styles. Height is what is important and heights for most guides are published. For example a size 30 Y or a size 40SV guide is similar in height to the KW30, some LV or SV guides are similar in height to the other KW guides. Do the mock-up and see how it looks with your rod and reel. Might make you more confident when ordering your proposed guide train. If you do not have a stash of guides, find a local rod repair guy and borrow some. or buy some el cheapo guides that match the heights you want.
Norm

Norm that's an excellent idea. I have a ton of guides and just because they aren't the same, I didn't think to use them. I was actually considering cutting something like pieces of a dowel rod to the height of the guides. But if I can find guides that match height of the KWs, that would be ideal.

Hello Randy.

I bought the set of guides I use the most and I will set-up a rod using what I have and order just what I used so I keep a FULL set of guides, replacing as I go.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Randy - sorry I'm on the east coast
also anglers resource has an excellent pdf with the heights of all (I think) the Fuji guides
should make it easier to find another model you might have with the guide height of the KW your planning with

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Hopefully this works. The red lines are inches from the reel face. I used Photoshop because it has rulers you can view in the side and top, which I used to measure the guide height on the drawing. So I was able to take my measurements and the guide heights listed for the KWs to double check the GPS software. The only one it didn't match up on was the 8. But I'd have to move that further out, based on this drawing. I think I can go with this layout; now I just need to find a blank to build on.

Thoughts?

I think 17" from spool tip to stripper is much too close for a 6000 reel with 30 # braid. I think you would do better some where between 20" - 24" from spool to stripper. 17" is too close even for an ultralight in my opinion.
Norm

OK then...back to the drawing board

Randy, go to the Fuji catalog and use the guide group recommendations for your reduction guides. Set your choke point at 27 times the spool dia (you won't have many running guides) and work the group back from there. Since Fuji gives you all the guide heights you can do this layout on paper before even ordering guides. If it looks reasonable, try it out. If not, go with your old layouts that have worked for you before. You just may have to move the whole layout out some because of the 6000 reel. I've never done one like this before, but that is what I would recommend. I'd appreciate your reporting back with what you finally end up with.

Michael, will do. I just remeasured the reel and got a little bit more reasonable findings. The instructions on Fuji's website are a little less adequate than what I just used.

They recommend laying the reel over on its side and aligning the foot on a straight line drawn on paper. Well this is more difficult than it sounds, plus doesn't account for the fact that as you rotate it down you're losing distance to the spool axle. In addition, the foot (at least on my reel) wasn't straight, so it wanted to rock back and forth.

What I ended up doing this time around was tape the paper to a wall with the bottom edge lined up with the counter on my workbench. Then I stood the reel up so that the flat of the reel foot was on the workbench. Then I laid a square on the spool axle and squared it up with the wall, where the paper was taped and drew a line on the paper. From there, I followed the remainder of the instructions on the site.

While I don't think this gave me a perfect solution, I do think it gives me the confidence I need to purchase the guides I need. When I get all the parts in, I can adjust as necessary.

Oh, and they have a 27x calculator on the site as well. I don't think that will work however, because it puts my choker like 5 feet out. The blank I *think* I've decided to go with is only 6.5" long, and it will have an 11 or 12 inch rear grip including the gimbal.