I am wrapping a fly rod with a single thread inlay.
Procedure :
1 Start the base wrap = 1st thread bump
2 Secure the inlay with 3 wraps of base = 2nd thread bump
3 Tie of the inlay with 3 wraps of base = 3rd thread bump
4 Finish base wrap = 4th thread bump

What I have is 4 thread bumps under a half inch wrap. I place the bumps on the side opposite the angler (underside of a fly blank) but the results are not satisfactory. I have tried loosening the wrap, running a burnishing tool over the bump to help smooth it out but still not acceptable. Is my technique poor or am I expecting to much ? Any help would be appreciated. Maybe I'll go down to the fly shop and see how the factory rods look.

There will be some "bump" but it should not be terribly noticeable unless one really closely, closely inspects the wraps. I assume you are using A thread.

Without actually seeing your "bumps" I cannot really tell if you are dealing with what would be considered normal, or if it really is a problem.

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Are you "flaming" or thinning your epoxy a lot? Even flamed pretty thin, I cannot see any of the bumps you refer to in my wraps done as you describe after the epoxy.

Are you using Rod Varnish instead of epoxy?

TH

Im not a pro by any means look at all the questions I ask but, when you pull a thread back under itself to secure it your going to get a buldge you cant avoid it.

Somthing has to be displaced when you pull a thread under and through another and since the blank wont give way the thread on top "Wraps " will! Even if its flattened out the thread thats pulled through still has some diameter and will raise the thread on top . I always try to pull threads through on the bottom side of my rods if I can . After the finish is on one cant really notice the pull throughs especially with darker thread.

happy wrapping "John"

When doing multicolor weaves and wraps, you will get "bumps". They are extremely noticeable when unfinished. Not to despair. I like to coat the wraps with 2 or 3 coats of color preserver (a few hours apart of course). When dry, the coats of color preserver somewhat hide or melt the thread strands together. Then, I like to put a thick coat of U40 or Flexcoat as a first coat to try to even out the peaks and valleys in the weave (especially in diamond wraps). I come back with a 2nd coat a few hours later (if not the next day) to put a buffer between the top layer of thread and the top coat of finish. Depending on how "bumpy" the finish ends up as a result of the bumps in the weaves and inlays determines whether or not I need a 3rd coat. If after the 3rd coat, the finish has bumps, I like to wet sand the finish with 400 grit sandpaper with light pressure to even out the surface (thus the need for the 3rd coat to be sacrificed). I then come back with a thin 4th coat to glass-out the finish. The thickness of the finish in conjunction with the color preserver then gives you a hologram effect thus hiding the bumps in the wraps making your wrap look smooth.

Several years ago I attended one of Dale Clemen's seminars in Austin, Texas and saw the best finish on rods ever. A fellow from Amarillo, Texas built a box which he had lined with aluminum insulation material about 1/2 inch thick. He then strung a string of clear Xmas lights at the top of the box about 6 inches from his rod tuning device. The lights were turned on and left on during the curing process and the combination of the heat produced by the lights and insulation resulted in a very fine finish. Don't ask why I haven't built one myself. I guess it is due to lack of space in my wrapping area.