Hello all,I'm sure there are a few of you that are or were working in a "shop" like mine, a 10x12 building. I've got one of those electric radiant heaters that looks like the old water radiators. It does good if you are sitting next to it while wrapping but I have serious doubts of it keeping the whole space warm for at least 4hrs. giving a finish time to atleast tack good. What do you guys use baseboard heaters, gas, kerosene?

I use a base board and a radiant radiator and try and keep the temprature around 80%
Bob

I use a propane radiant heater that clamps onto the top of the bottle. Does a pretty good job. I favorite heater for the shop was my kerosene, it was a big round unit that would heat the hole shop/garage to aboutn 75 but I can't find a wick for it now.

Your "oil radient" heater will easily heat your shop for an extended period. Trouble is, you've got to have some way to contain the heat. Some time spent sealing cracks and openings as well as maybe putting in some insulation will pay off in the long run. Particularly if you intend to work through the winter.

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There is a unit that you can buy called "Soft Heat." It is a small electric unit meant to install under kitchen cabinets. 4" high, 18" wide and 16" deep.

But don't let the size fool you. They pump out 2,000 watts of gentle fan-forced heat. Should work well for a room the size you describe above, as long as there are not too many big air leaks.

They are called "soft" heat because the air comes out of the unit toasty warm, but not burning hot. It will not cause a fire even when paper or cloth comes into direct contact with it. The heating elements are inside tubes which are filled with oil. Having safe heat is one less thing to think about. A lot of shops go up in flames from kerosene and radiant heaters.

You can wire them for either 110 or 220 volts, and they can be wired to a cheap baseboard heater thermostat for sustained comfort. They can be bought from most electric supply houses like Branch Electric. Ask for a "below cabinet toekick heater."

I install these units very regularly in people's homes, and people rave about how great they are. Only problem is that the dog will lay in front of it and won't move! :-)

Hope this helps.

TH

I had this same problem. No matter what the heat source, the insulation and seams are a big factor, like Tom says -- at least they were for me.

My shop is 2 1/2 times the square footage you're dealing with, and last winter I had a hard time keeping it warm with electric and kerosene combined. It's got a 12-foot-high barn style ceiling that sucked up all the heat, even though the walls were insulated already. I insulated the ceiling completely, paneled it, sealed the windows and put those rubber weather strips at the bottoms of the side door and double doors on front. I also put in a ceiling fan that I can reverse to hold the heat down. It's made all the difference, with the air conditioning too. I know my electric bill will see some relief as the winter wears on -- it ate me up last winter.

I'm with you Scott,, my old shed was 16x20 and you could throw a cat through it any place. But will finish a new one 20x20 with good insulation, big windows for light and a new propane heater with blower. Gonna try making a cane rod this winter.

In most of the woodworking magazines right now there is a new type of radiant baseboard heater that uses a silicone fluid to heat. Says it retains heat for quite some time and is very cost effective. Looks like quality stuff. If I can find the address or company name I will pass it along.

If you are just worried about the heat for the sake of the finish, make a dryer box (i did mine out of plexiglass) and then you only have to heat the enclosure which is also a good way to keep any dust off the finish.

Kerry