Hi to all. Thank you for reading and hopefully afford assistance to my inquiry.
I am attempting to save the cork grips on an old FG Garcia surf rod which has a few, fairly deep voids in the surface. I like to keep these old rods as original as possible, cork is rather expensive and I am, admittedly, a cheap bast#@*. Mud hole offers a wood filler to be used to fill cork. Have any of you used it, how did it perform, is it waterproof, color? To obtain a perfect color match, I certainly would not mind mixing cork dust from sanding the grip to be filled with a “glue” to make the filler, but I have no idea the best glue to use. My main concern is using a filler with the same sanding properties as the soft cork to avoid peaks in the filler next to valleys in the cork.
Also, U-40 products are well respected and I purchased their cork sealer but haven’t used it yet (still waiting on Mud Hole’s slow shipping). Is it a good product and any helpful application tips?
Thanks for your time and hopeful assistance.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark,
For years, I have used only Elmers wood filler in "golden oak" color available at big box home builders stores, hardware stores and lumber stores.


[www.menards.com]



If you have deep voids, just fill the deep voids about 1/2 full and then let the filler dry for 24 hours. Then, apply another coat, and if necessary a 3rd coat.

If you want to use cork dust and glue to fill the voids use model airplane cement or the duco clear home repair cement. This glue sets up fast, so only mix enough dust with the glue for the the voids that you wish to fill.

The advantage of the model airplane cement is that it sands at nearly the identical rate as standard cork so you won't have issues with sanding gouging.

[www.walmart.com]

[www.amazon.com]

Thanks, Roger. Your suggestions and recommendations are always appreciated and held in the highest regard and respect.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Here is a post from a few pages back.

[rodbuilding.org]

Have not had a problem sanding cork paste made with the exterior wood cements or the exterior wood or cork fillers. They all work as well as can be expected. Even when replacing the cork itself you still need to do some filling because of quality of most of today's cork.
Norm

I have made fine cork dust by sanding a scrap piece of cork and mixed the dust with Rod Bond epoxy to form a paste. A cork grip flexes, so the filler must flex with it or the bond will separate. These fillings have been quite durable and the color match isn't bad. I sand them down flush with sandpaper glued to a flat stick to avoid hills and valleys.

Mark

The U 40 cork sealer is as represented - it does seal the cork with a single application which is straight forward - no special tools or techniques required.

The U 40 cork sealer's only downside is aesthetic. If you fill holes, flaws, etc. the filled areas will absorb the sealer at a slightly different rate / amount and thereby increase the contrast between the filed and non-filed cork.

I've always thought of a lightly soiled grip as a badge of honor.

Roger nailed it...........For years, I have used only Elmers wood filler in "golden oak" color available at big box home builders stores, hardware stores and lumber stores.

I use this or Mud Hole's Pit Paste on EVERY natural cork custom grip I make. Affordable cork now a days is pretty crappy quality. Both fillers work very well and sand easily.

Buzz

Pit Paste by Rod Dancer
Herb

Thanks to Phil, Donald, Buzz and Herb for their input. We do not have Big Box Home Builders here in LA LA Land and am experiencing difficulty locating it at the typical sources such as Home Depot, Lowes and local hardware stores. I might have to bite the bullet and purchase it through Mud Hole and wait 2 weeks for delivery.
Thanks again, guys.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark,
I just bought 2 jars of pit past. Will sell you one - never opened.
PM me with contact details if interested. Can go out tomorrow.
Herb

Herb Ladenheim Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Mark,
> I just bought 2 jars of pit past. Will sell you
> one - never opened.
> PM me with contact details if interested. Can go
> out tomorrow.
> Herb

Mark, Herb's a rock solid guy, I'd take him up on that offer.

I buy my Elmers filler at Lowes !
Rog

Mark, I got my tube of Elmer's wood filler at the local hardware for $2.79. Lynn

From our local big box store Menards - $1.99 per tube.

[www.menards.com]

Just make sure you get the exterior grade wood filler, much more weather resistant. Same thing goes for wood glue, if you want to make your own cork paste. You will not find RodDancer pit paste in a hardware store, need to get it from Herb or Rod building dealer. The use of pit paste, wood filler, or homemade cork paste (made using wood glue and cork dust) all work very well, and in my opinion give similar results. You can, as mentioned above, make a cork paste with epoxy, it will never fall out, but is harder to sand. Pick one, or try them all, your choice.
Norm

Herb, Thanks for the offer. I found Elmer’s golden oak at a Lowes 10 miles from home, even if three times what others have stated they pay, maybe this is a larger tube. While admittedly a cheap bast@#*, I can also be impatient, so it’s off to Lowes. Plus, I enjoy driving on these holiday weekends trying to avoid all the DUI moving chicanes.
Thanks also to Jay, Roger (the other one), Lynn and Norman. All of you are awesome!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I purchased the Elmer’s golden oak at lowes and immediately started filling a test piece as soon as I got home. The filler seamed awfully dry and chalky right out of the tube. Is this normal or did I get an old, dried out tube? I would think a “wetter” consistency would facilitate the filler seeping into the pours and bonding to the cork better.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

It is a paste but should not feel overly dry and chalky right out of the tube. It does dry quickly but once it sets up will stay in place and can be sanded within a half hour or so. I have had the first bit of filler coming out of the tube feel dry, but usually a little further down in the tube it is ok. So squeeze out the dry stuff and see what is like a little further down. If you do not like the feel or results of the wood filler, try using an exterior grade wood glue (tite bond or Elmers) and mix in some cork dust and make your own paste. You can make some cork dust by sanding down some wine corks, you should have plenty of used ones there in LaLa land. Once dry this cork paste will stay in place and can be sanded with no problem. The wood glue is cheap and will not go to waste because it used to glue cork rings together.
Norm

Mark,
With a net tube of anything, I "massage" the tube a bit to help insure that the contents are mixed up before I open the tube for the first time. I also squeeze out some material first to insure that I have a consistent material to use.

Sometimes the first material is too dry and sometimes it is too wet. So, be squeezing a bit out first, you will be using the product as it is mixed in the rest of the tube.

When I am doing a production run on rods, I will take the grip and have it set up on the lathe. Then, I go over the grip using the filler to fill any and all holes. About the time that I finish filling the cork, I will turn on the lathe and get the grip spinning. I will use the back side of a piece of sandpaper to remove excess filler quickly. I only have to spin the grip for a minute or so to get all of the excess filler off of the blank. Then, I will let the grip set for 5 minutes and go back over the grip to top off any deep spots that need added filler. Let it rest for a couple of minutes and then use the back side of a piece of sand paper to remove any excess filler. I will let it set for another 5 minutes and then hit it with 100,150,220,330,400 and 600 grit paper and then finish with the back side of a piece of sand paper. Do a final check and generally good to go. All of this fill and sanding work is done on the lathe so it goes very quickly. I suppose that the total sanding time is under 5 minutes to have the finished grip.

Be safe

Hi to all and thanks for all the advise.
I did knead the tube as directed in the instructions. Both Norman and Roger are correct as the first material to come out was drier than deeper into the tube. The color is a tad light which good. I added a tick of brown dye I purchased quite awhile ago from Rockler Woodworking and the color is nigh-on perfect. While I find it sands nicely, I will employ Roger’s procedure from now on, especially using the back side of the paper, to remove and smooth out the initial excess. Great idea! Dang it’s nice to be able to use something collecting dust on the shelf rather than going out to buy it. My problem is remembering which shelf!
Graciously grateful

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.