Hi
I have started a 6 foot medium wt fast tip walleye rod. I have completed the grip and now am completely confused about the guides. the reel has a 40mm face and sits 12 inches from the butt.
I am confused with all the info and different methods. Since I'm a beginner I purchased inexpensive guides, I bought a complete set of BLVOG guides + some extras . If i use the concept idea the choke point ends up at about 40 inches used a #6 for the choke guide. a 25 is 18,25mm inside, close to half the size of the reel face it is also about 40 mm to the top. This fits at 20 inches from the reel face
with straight edge from reel face center to top of choke guide. used #16 next , fit 8.5 inches from 25. next used #10, fit 6 inches from 16.next #6 choke guide 5.75 inches from10 then 2 #6's 5 inches apart then 1 #6 4.5 inches from the tip.
I also purchased #6 BOG guides that are a bit shorter than the BLOVG guides and both in #8 in case I needed bigger running guides.
I would like to get an opinion or 2 on this before i commit to this layout. I am trying to learn about rod building and am very willing to start this whole thing over to get it right.
Thanks,
Robert

How far any guide is from the tiptop doesn't matter. It is the distance FROM THE REEL that matters.

Use the set up you listed and go out and cast it. That will tell you what you need to know.

................

You don't need to wear a helmet and leathers to get it right. It sounds like you have the right ingredients ,you just have to taste test it.
Do what Tom suggest, tape the guides on and test cast it and move or replace the guides until you are satisfied with its ease of use.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

Robert,,,
I'm in the same boat as you are as far as guide placement.
I've read so much and watched so many videos that it becomes overwhelming but,,,,
The best info I've got and read is right here.

You don't buy a car/truck without a test drive,,,same goes with your rod build!
Get out there and spin the tires a little!

Tom Kuzia

I just want to mention that there is another aspect to guide spacing, and that is strain on the rod when under load.
So it sounds like you have a pretty good setup for casting,
but pay attention to the tip section and see what it looks like under load with a reel on and line run thru the guides.
Having the first few guides in the tip area close enough to distribute that load is also important.
If you never put much of a strain on the rod while fishing, then the casting aspect may be the most important to you.
Just don't fret too much about all the spacing ideas.
i have seen and used some older rods that had a really poor spacing with too few guides,
and they still were very usable and not too bad casting either.
As you get more into rod building, you will get better and better at it.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Robert,
I try to simplify. Put a size 25 match guide at 20 inches from the face of the reel. Then a size 16, 10 and down to size 6 runners to the tip with a size 6 tip. Folks mention using too few guides. But, using too many guides is just as bad in the form of unneeded weight. So, use guides of a size and placement that is appropriate for the blank, and reel being used.

For my own personal use, I generally use very similar setups on all of my rods of the same type. I am a person who frequently switches reels on a rod. Often, I find that I have a favorite reel of some particular size. As a result, I might end up using this same reel on many different rods. Or, on some days, I might prefer to use a very small reel for some particular reason, or a very large reel for a particular reason. I do not want the guide train to limit my choice of reels. Hence, the reason why I tend to stay away from small stripper guides.

Just place a guide where ever it is needed to insure that the line follows the contour of the loaded or bent blank.

Or, go with what you have calculated. If the setup catches fish, you are good to go.

Many folks including myself are using the simple setup where there are only about 2 or 3 guide sizes involved in the guide train and this setup works fine.

Be safe

Robert,
My choice would be a 5 or 6 guide train based on the rod and handle length.
I don't use visual cues to place guides, rather a template that calculates position.
I also don't allow guide geometry to dictate placement. Too much variation between guide types and purposes.
I believe the guides should be placed close to the blank to minimize torque effects. Low frame heights.

for a 6 guide set up
distance from rod tip

4.1 ; 9.1 ; 15.2 ; 22.6 ; 31.5 ; 42.4

for a 5 guide set up
distance from rod tip

5.0 ; 11.3 ; 19.3 ; 29.5 ; 42.4

Your stripper guide diameter should be from 70% to 50% of your reel spool diameter.

Your running guides should be as light as possible while allowing knots to pass without obstruction. Use of smaller guides normally means lighter guides. If you keep weight off the rod tip the rod will respond much quicker.

Good luck,

Gene

Rob, Ron is correct , more guides close to the tip. At lest 5 guides in the 1st third of the flex from the tip. I do a lot of repairs and I'll tell you the first nine inches is where a lot of rods get broken. These are factory rods with extra fast / fast tips and plenty of fly rods too. I think with an extra guide in there , these repairs would not be necessary. So do a good static load test and don't be afraid to throw an extra guide in there somewhere.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

Thanks Guys
this really does help me get an idea of what to look for. I taped the guides and then put on a reel and set it at about 30-40 degrees and loaded it with small weigh plates, one at a time until it bent right into the bottom 3rd. It looked good. I tried to cast it and that seemed ok, also it does have 5 guides in the 2 foot tip section. If the rod works out as well as it seems ,it will be a gift for a family member so once again I would like to say thanks for the help, very much appreciated.
Robert