Was looking for advice in regards to prepping a rod blank. Took a beginners rod building class last year at a local tackle store and have built a few rods since and really enjoy building. In that class, we were told to use fine grit sandpaper to lightly rough up the blank where the grip, reel seat and fore grip will be located to allow better adhesion between the blank, epoxy and grip/reel seat. So, I have used this advice on the handle area of the rods I've built. I have a few questions though.

I've read the article on the "Surface Preparation" in the library section that uses 3M scotchbrite pad to do the work of the sandpaper. Is this the preferred choice of most builders? In this article it mentions the "grey" 3M scotchbrite pad, is this the best to use for rod building?

Does the finish on the blank (or lack of a finish) make a difference on how or if you prep a blank? This is asked in regards to a glossy finish on a blank VS a mat finish available on some blanks. Should both be prepped the same way or does the glossy need more prep then the mat finish?

Last question (for now), do you also prep the blank where the guides and thread wraps will be located on the rod?

TIA guys

Hello Robert.

Yes to the last 3 paragraphs.

Some people do not do the guide area, but I do a light scuff there, carful to not go beyond where the thread will be laid.(I tape it off).

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Robert,
All that I have ever done with a blank is to wipe the blank down with simple green cleaner and a paper towel.

Let it dry and go build the rod.

I never do anything with the inside of the reel seat nor do I do anything special with any arbors that I have on the blank.

I use a generous amount of glue and have never every had an issue with anything on a rod coming loose.

Take care

The preferred surfaces for bonding will be in a "water-break-free" condition, as outlined in the surface preparation article in the online library here, which you referred to. You may get by with other surface methods, but "water-break-free" is going to be the optimum condition for permanent mating of parts with our common rod building epoxies.

It is generally not necessary to do any prep work on the blank where the guides will be located. Just make sure the blank is clean overall, which can easily be taken care of with a quick wipe down with isopropyl alcohol.

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Thanks for the replies guys. Don't know if I got the "Water-break-free" on my previous builds using fine grit sand paper or not, as I had never heard of it until I found this site.

Was wondering if you didn't need to prep a mat finished blank like you would need to with a glossy finished blank? As the mat finished isn't as slick as the glossy. Looks like it will still need to be prepped, just like the glossy finished blank.

The reason I asked about the 3M Scotchbrite pads, and the color of the pads was because the one on Mudhole's site showed a grey color on the site, but was reddish or maroon color that I received. Don't know what grade the pad is that I have? I know the article said light grey were fine and extra fine.

Tom, not sure I remember the article word for word, but thought it mentioned the "water-break-free" anywhere you wanted the best bond available, and was why I was asking about the location of the guides and thread wraps. Good to know that it is not needed in these locations. I hadn't done that on my previous builds and was worried about issues later on with those builds.

Thanks!!

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The preferred surfaces for bonding will be in a
> "water-break-free" condition, as outlined in the
> surface preparation article in the online library
> here, which you referred to. You may get by with
> other surface methods, but "water-break-free" is
> going to be the optimum condition for permanent
> mating of parts with our common rod building
> epoxies.
>
> It is generally not necessary to do any prep work
> on the blank where the guides will be located.
> Just make sure the blank is clean overall, which
> can easily be taken care of with a quick wipe down
> with isopropyl alcohol.
>
> ..................

Went back and re-read the article. It did say the guide broke before any problem with the finish. Good to know.

[academic.evergreen.edu]

The maroon isn't too coarse. You'll be okay with it.

...........

Hello Mike.

Thanks for the list.

Hello All.

Witch one off of Mikes list would you use?

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Ralph used to say that if you didn't have any Scotchbrite you could "get by" with 400 grit, and preferably 600 grit sandpaper. So I'd choose whichever one matches those grits.

.............

mOST PROFESSIONL PAINT SUPPLY STORES SellL 3m SCUFF PADS THAT will be sufficent to scuff any blank before doing the real seat they are usually about 400 grit or coarser.and are perfect for what you want to do.