Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Mark,
There are a million ways to build a mouse trap or a rod wrapper. It sounds like you have some great ideas.
Since you have a variable speed control on your dryer motor, you can dry at any speed that you desire.
When I apply finish, I use my power wrapper that will turn at speeds up to 1000 rpm. I generally apply finish at about 0-50 rpm. 0 for the guide foot tunnel and 50 rpm or faster for long butt wraps. Then, when it comes down to drying, I just slow down the dryer so that the rod is turning at a sped that does not create foot balls by slinging finish. The slowest that I use is 6 rpm. I expect that the fastest that I use is 20 rpm.
Generally, I dry at about 10 rpm.
I very much dislike using magnetic tensioners. I just find them inconvenient and too time consuming to adjust to my liking. I simply use a sewing machine style thread tensioner to run my thread through. I do not run metallic thread through the tensioner. I only use metallic thread for trim and then, I just cut off lengths of thread and use them out of my hand for wrapping.
I trust that you have your speed control, controlled from a pedal don't you. If wrapping, pretty important to have foot control to keep both hands free when wrapping.
I have made all of my own wrappers and dryers over the years as well. If I don't like it, it gets scrapped and something else is built. The system that I use now works very well for me.
Just a couple of pictures:
Wrapper bed: [
www.rodbuilding.org]
Thread tensioner: [
www.rodbuilding.org]
Power head and DC motor : [
www.rodbuilding.org]
Steady rests used for wrapping and drying: [
www.rodbuilding.org]
I agree with you, in that it is nice to have the rollers supported from behind. That way, one can get one's hands under the rollers when working close to a guide on a fine tip needing support.
Single motor rod drying power unit. [
www.rodbuilding.org]
This is a Grainger DC gear motor that varies in speed from 0-50 rpm. The chuck is a $1 pvc cap, with a piece of neoprene over the face to create a rod holder. This is essentially a copy of the flex coat chucks.
If you want to make the equivalent of a flex coat chuck, just use a flat bottomed PVC cap as shown above. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center using your lathe. Then, use your lathe to insure that the inside bottom of the cap and the outside bottol of the cap are flat and equal thickness on all parts of the bottom of the chuck.
Then, use the lathe to drill and tap a piece of stock to use as a base for the chuck. Cross drill and tap two setscrew holes in the base. Use a body washer on each side of the pvc cap base and insert the 1/4 inch bolt through the washers and cap base. Then, tighten the bolt down to the stock base that you are using. When you get the setting of the center bolt to get to the "slip" tension that you desire, tighten the cross set screw in the base material.
You will have already drilled out the other 1/2 of the base to the diameter of your motor shaft. Slip the base and chuck onto your motor shaft and tighten the set screw that you have previously drilled and tapped.
The pvc cap, with the neoprene chuck and adjusting screw to form the clutch will cost about $1.50 and take about 30 minutes of your time, depending on the speed of your machine shop work.
Just recently, I have been doing some testing with DC brushless motors and controllers for this work. It is going well and the brushless motors and controllers are the ultimate in use and control.
Drop me an e-mail with any more questions:
hflier@comcast.net
Be safe
