Being a first time rodbuilder there was some anxiety and intimidation with the process and end result. I've purchased Toms book subscribe to rodbuilder mag and have watched some youtube. my first challenge is getting the initial wrap on to lock the thread in place, I have a power wrapper but hand wrap where I feel I need more control but still haven't mastered the cross locking setup. Is my rotation supposed to be towards me or away? My second challenge was I did manage to get all guides on and used the flexcoat threadcoat and got excellent results, however a few days later I put on the hook keeper and applied the same finish and it is still tacky after a week, now I was using the syringes and plastic measuring cups from mudhole and I believe my mix was off how or is it possible to cure this so the finish is not tacky?

Comments deleted



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:42PM by John E Powell.

Finish not curing is usually either off on measurement of one part, or not mixed enough. At this point I don't know that you can get it to cure, you'll probably need to re-coat with a mixture that measured precise and mixed very well, and will cure up.

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Thanks for the email and sorry you are having trouble.

This sounds like your finish is under mixed. A tacky finish is indicative of improper or insufficient mixing. Basically, mix it longer and more thoroughly. Scrape the walls of the cup and bottom but avoid introducing bubbles. The finish will appear marbled, then cloudy, then marbled again, and then clear, mix it until it is crystal clear.

There is a big difference between finish mixed 99% and finish mixed 100%. Always mix up equal portions and never measure less than 3 cc's of each part.


Once properly mixed you can pour it out on a paper plate covered in aluminum foil. This will extend the pot life and help get rid of bubbles.

Click the link below to watch our short video on mixing Flex Coat

[www.flexcoat.com]

As far as your rod, if you can scratch the finish off with your thumb nail then you will have to take off the finish and wraps and start over. If it doesn't scratch off, then put on another coat that is properly mixed. It will last 20 years instead of 100 years.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

x10 on John's mixing comments.

To avoid an issue, I mix by the clock.

I mix in a plastic cup. I use a craft stick with a flata end with slightly rounded corners on the stick to avoid cutting the cup. I put equal parts of A and B in the cup and slowly mix for 120 seconds as measured on the clock or 2 minutes.

I had the same issue as you when first building rods. After a suggestion by an experienced builder, began to mix by the clock and have not had a bad mix since.

The clock keeps you mixing long enough. Sometimes it might seem that the mix is complete - but if you h ave not mixed for 120 seconds, keep mixing. Also, frequently wipe off the side of the stick and the cup to insure that all of the mix has been well mixed.

Also, as John stated, if you have a tacky finish, do NOT put another coat of finish over it. You will forever have the tacky finish captured on the center of your rod finish. Remove the bad finish and any thing else that is a problem and redo and recoat.

Good luck

still tacky, A sure way, clean it up use DNA. , clean it off an re-do, mix it well an do measure as close as you can ,
should have good results just like every one suggested the only difference is I clean off the bad mix an do it again
PS as you measure an mix do scrape the sides it all counts, the smaller the amount you mix it becomes real impotent as your mix smaller
amount's the sides become a bigger % of the mix I think just an idea

William Sidney
AK

I agree....I'd clean it all off and start over.

Would be the better way Gives you more practice

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks for the great info, no doubt I was trying to be frugal and not waste any epoxy, paid the price for that thinking. So now as mentioned using DA which I'm assuming is denatured alcohol, how do I go about removing the first application w/o compromising the threads and rod, should I apply generously using q-tips paper towels rags etcetera--obviously I'll be mixing better.

Requesting a clarification on the removing and starting from scratch direction, I'm not sure how to approach or actually what the process is to complete this---will this compromise the rod will I need to rewrap the hook keeper, the epoxy has penetrated the threads will the color be affected if the threads come off will the rod need to be prepped---sorry for all the skeptical questions obviously experience related is the source. I'm just hoping to get the same results that I got with the guides, they are super glossy smooth no thread above the finish so if I could get a step by step walk thru on the removal and reapply which I'm pretty sure was operator failure on the ratio and mixing it will be truly appreciated.

this should help
[rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

deleted link



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2016 08:30PM by chris blackburn.

oops! Wrong thread



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2016 08:28PM by chris blackburn.

The easiest fix is to do as John suggested above. Mix up a fresh batch of epoxy and recoat the tacky area. In 99% of the time this will fix the probem and will not change the color of the wrap. In fact you will not know there was a problem. Have done this on several occasions and worked fine everytime with no problems. In the unlikely case, if this does not work just cut off the hook keeper, rewrap and epoxy. Do not worry about it, it is a rather minimal problem that can be done easily. Cutting off guides will not compromise the blank and if the guide is going back in the same place clean up is minimal. Just make sure you cut the treads on top of the keeper foot to prevent cutting the blank and remove all the old tread by unwinding it. Hope this helps.
Norm

Seems like you should do as Norman suggests
Get a used rod and figure out how to take the guides off practice

Bill - willierods.com

OK I did the thumbnail test and the finish pulled up, so how do I go about getting the tacky epoxy off or is that where I just cut trough the wrap and peel it off will I need to prep the surface of the rod before I rewrap. I think I've understood my mixing dilemma now its just getting the rod ready to start from scratch. My reason for the intensity of the questions is this is my first build, it is a gift to my son and putting pressure on myself to make it perfect. It was a kit from mudhole, got great help from them but now its crunch time, I still am wondering about getting the thread started I have an American Tackle Power Wrapper----I did handwrapping with it to get started but really not getting the start correctly. I'm set up so the motor is on my left, how should the rotation be going, also I'm using the large bobbins for my thread there is enough tension from the weight, its just getting that crosslock or is there another way, I really apologize for all of these questions I'm wanting to make a go of this maybe hoping to sell a few but not get rich just a extra to add my upcoming retirement. All of the responses have been great I just hope I don't drive anyone nuts.

Steve. The first thing you have to do is not worry about it. I'm pretty sure everyone has made this mistake before and it's going to be okay. The next thing you need to do is to cut through the wrap on top of the foot of the hook keeper so the blade doesn't dig into the blank. Try to get the end of the thread from where you cut and unwind it. This normally takes off most of the epoxy. If there is still some left then try to use a plastic knife to scrape it away without damaging the blank. After you remove the hook keeper and use a plastic knife if there is still some epoxy you can't get off you can use really FINE sandpaper to sand it away, but still be careful not to damage and sand into the blanks fibers. Now to the wrapping. You can wrap from left to right, from right to left, with the motor on your left or the motor on your right. It is only up to your preference. Now I believe the American tackle power wrapper comes with a thread carriage. That's where I would keep my thread and tension it down with the springs, washers, and nut. Now most people wrap with the thread going up and over the rod blank. This to to make sure you don't get any gaps while wrapping. Now there are hundreds of wrapping videos on YouTube. Beginners seem to really catch on with mudholes instructional videos. Watch this one to help you but disregard the way he gets ready to wrap because you have a different machine and your thread is coming from underneath the blank. [youtu.be] I really hope I helped. If you're still confused on anything let us know.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2016 12:17AM by Michael Maclean.

I hand wrap all of the rods I build or repair, been doing it that way for 47 yrs and many thousands of rods. To start a wrap make a turn with the tread, hold the tag end tightly with your right hand pulling it down and slightly to the right. With your left hand push the standing part of the tread over the top of the tag end, forming an X. Continue wrapping over the tag end and this should get you started . This is for wrapping left to right, with the rod turnig toward you with the tread coming over the top. To wrap in the opposite direction reverse hands, if you have trouble doing this then reverse the rod. I like to move the rod as I wrap rather than keeping the rod stationary and me moving as with a power wrapper. Unless of course you have a power wrapper that moves, like the ones Roger Wilson design and build. For me a power wrapper is good for long under wraps, but other wise would rather wrap by hand. Since you wrapped all your guides previously on this rod and were happy with the results, it sounds like you just need some practice, till you get comfortable with want you are doing. The people I've taught to hand wrap, those who fuss over the details seem to have the hardest time. Take it easy and have some fun. For me building a rod is both relaxing and fun, and it seems like I'm always learning something new. However, it is addictive. Hope this helps.
Norm

Steve, Relax, try different methods until you reach a comfort zone and settle on something that works for you. I'm addicted to the foot pedal for wrapping guides, knew a guy who used 2 music stands with u things and put the spool of thread in his lap and did beautiful work fairly quickly too. Keep at it, take your time and don't get frustrated. Hope you get to wet a line with your son soon!

Thanks to everyone I will take all advice and proceed but with a different outlook. It's obvious that I've put some pressure on myself and this has overshadowed everything. The addiction part is already creeping in, I guess that has affected me also, I want to learn all I can w/o delays and so forth but if I don't settle down and relax keep at it'll be a long road. I've gone to flea mkts and gotten some old junky rods to practice on even found a rod with a Zebco 33 buried in the gravel in the stream where I live, flood waters can really bring things to the surface. Anyway thank you again and will get after it need to be fishing with my son and his new rod floating weather is coming.