On my first full build (I re built a few sabre and fenwick rods prior) I did a rainshadow swimbait rod.. the rod generally came out good but has some small waves in the long sections of finish.. the rod preforms great and my fishing friends love it, but the little waves bug me.. I have read here to either sand and add another coat or add another coat.. (has 2 coats of FC lite) if I sand then what is the actual technique? block? wrap the sand paper and spin the rod? wet/dry? .. or just scuff add another coat? if so whats a good technique?.. thanks for any help

Putting more finish on top of already wavy finish will only result in a wavier finish.

Block sand level, then add a thin recoat.

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Edward,
Tom is right about adding more finish on the top of an already wavy finish.

However, since you only have two coats of flex coat lite on the rod, your finish thickness is not very thick. You can try block sanding the waves, but remember, you do not want to actually sand through the finish to the threads.
Therefore, sometimes it makes sense to add one more coat of finish before starting to sand just to give you some cushion when you sand off the waves from the rod.

Block sanding works very well. But, too aggressive sanding with too coarse paper will quickly cut through a thin finish.

Sanding is the only way to get the waves out, but you have to do it with care and with caution.

Rather than sanding when the rod is spinning, I might suggest that you just block sand - lengthwise on the rod, turning the rod as you sand, keeping a very close eye on the remaining thickness of the finish.

When done, with a smooth top - then put a coat or two back on for the final glass look on the rod.

When you did your initial rod coating, you put too much finish on the rod, that turned into waves. Better to use 4 or 5 very light coats rather than one or two very heavy coats that have been applied unevenly on the rod.

Good luck

If you lay on a glob of finish on with your brush then pull the finish from butt to tip on the rod with your brush it will never be wavy. use fast strokes to keep the finish uniform. This works well for longer areas of continuous finish

all great replies Fellas.. I have a hard rubber old style sanding block and some 400 wet/dry.. would that be where to start or coarser/finer.. wet or dry? thanks again.. Ed

Since you are using a light finish you can ( with care ) block sand Dry - Wet is hard to see what it looks like )
Careful not to go into the I guess the decal or whatever If a guide wrap I would just put another GOOD COAT of finish on Do the guides ONLY After coating wait Check to see how it levels out 10 - 20 minutes If it looks like there is too much -- Stop the dryer and let it drip Take the drips off with the brush Do several 180 Hand turns Then turn the dryer on let it turn -- Babysit it Check often

The decal area A light sanding dry Clean ( do not wash with alcohol ) If you have a 9 RPM dryer load the finish on After the guides are done !! -- Like said after coating run the brush I do it from one end left 3/4 s to the right Then right to left
Let turn And of course -- Baby site to see how it looks

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks again.. the whole rod turned out wonderful and I am totally happy with everything except this 6" long section in front of the fore grip.. I installed a hook keeper at the 6" mark and decided to run a couple coats of finish from fore grip to hook keeper to protect the blank from hard glide baits and such.. I studied several High end rods and they were set up this way.. there is no thread under the wavy area,, just blank..even if you look at the rod straight on its hard to notice but I notice..haha . Ed