What's your preferred heat type to use on epoxy once applied to wraps - mostly for bubble busting. I currently use a long stem Bic lighter, and use the side of the flame.

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Very carefully with a heat gun.

Nick

I've always used a plain ol' propane torch with great results. Like any heat source though, don't get it too close and don't hold it too long. I use a repetitive up and down motion over the top portion of the rod as it is turning which quickly puts the heat near the finish and quickly pulls it away. I have a heat gun too, but prefer the precision of the torch, especially if using it near the end of a wrap near the winding checks.

I never use heat, just blow on the bubbles with a straw, works great, if you don't have lots of bubbles from brushing or mixing.

I was told a long time ago from a rod builder who was also a chemist and knew how to make epoxy, that the CO2 in your breathe was what made bubbles in epoxy pop. I don't know if it actually true but it's always worked for me.

After a Google search, it seems the CO2 is what makes the bubbles pop, either from a flame or breathe. A heat gun may work but it isn't producing CO2. I'll still stick with my breathe.

Gentle heat, if needed at all, will cause the bubbles to expand and rise to the surface where they dissipate from the epoxy. The gentle heat also slightly thins the epoxy which itself allows the bubbles to rise and escape.

Best thing is to not use heat at all. A mechanical mixer and proper application technique generally do not create any bubbles to begin with. If you do end up with them, a butane cigarette lighter is convenient and sufficient for bubble release. It only takes a very few seconds.

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There are a number of tools that work but a lighter is one of the quickest to cause potential issues with soot swirls etc.. a small torch works well but can quickly burn your epoxy and mark up a wrap if you get too close. We highly suggest the Bubble Buster. Very affordable and they burn very clean. They burn 82% or higher rubbing alcohol so there is no soot to speak of. You can squeeze the bottle to direct air out of a little port pointed at 90 from the flame that lets you apply heat to your trouble spots without having to put the flame under it. Very kool tool and fun to use. [www.getbitoutdoors.com]

Tight Lines and Bull's-eyes,

Get Bit Outdoors
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I mix with an auto mixer, and generally have few to no bubbles in the finish - bubbles seem to come from air gaps in the threads, and finish displacing the air. Would be great to avoid this if I could.

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Comments deleted



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:53PM by John E Powell.

Three. Luckily I got mine put out before it did any serious damage to anything except my ego. I no longer use it obviously. I mix carefully and use a lighter only when necessary.

Hit the button twice.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2016 09:29AM by Victor Heal.

At some point, common sense has to kick in. There are rod builders who cut themselves badly with single edge razor blades, Xacto knives, etc. Others have dropped lumber on their toes while working on their rod building benches. How many items and tools should I ban from mention? The one thing I won't do is enact any policy intended to protect people from themselves.

On the other side of the coin, and one that common sense also dictates, is that people always consider the source of the information they take under advisement. One of the biggest problems with the internet, in fact, is that it is easy to take advice from any forum, video, etc., and accept it as valid, scientific, correct, etc., information without ever considering the credential of the person that proffered it.

Listen to all the advice and then use your common sense to separate the wheat from the chaff.

....................

The one concern that I have about the use of a classic lighter is that the classic lighter burns with a yellow flame.

The yellow flame indicates poor combustions. As a result, there is actually soot associated with a yellow flame.

If one does use a flame any where near a rod, one should use a flame that is invisible or blue in color. The invisible flame or the blue flame indicates complete combustion with no smoke and or soot being deposited where ever the flame is burning.

I use a heat gun if any heat is required and it works very well. Again as has been said with all of the other advice - Gentle Heat - used very sparingly is the ticket - if heat is required at all.

Be safe

I use either a Butane Micro torch or a Propane torch. Again, no direct heat. I actually put my hand behind whatever epoxy I want to apply heat to so I can get an idea of temp.

So it is either a waving action or I'll aim the flame under the epoxy and let the heat rise to it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2016 06:44AM by Phil Juhring.

I use a small butane torch made by BernzOmatic that i bought at one of the big box stores. Works great. It's hard to explain, but it has a feature that produces heat without the actual flame being directed at the wrap or epoxy. i have never had a problem with soot or too much heat. As others have said, I use a rotating mixer and if I apply heat I keep the torch moving.

Lighter and side of the flame for me too

Got an alcohol lamp on the work bench and real wood driver in the golf bag. Both are just for show. Cannot control and don't use either

Donald,
Don't you use the alcohol lamp to melt the glue for gluing tips to the rod?

The blowing through a straw method works fine for me. Lynn