Can an acrylic grip be reamed to fit the blank, or do you have to drill and install a arbor. I having been doing the later but my heart thinking would be that a grip reamed to fit would be more sensitive. Thoughts?

Some sensitivity went out the door the instant you chose a heavy acrylic piece to add to the rod. But, yes, a closer fitting piece, tapered rather than stuffed with adhesive would retain more sensitivity and provide a better adhesive bond as well.

They can be tapered reamed if you have the time and the patience. You may find that a little finer rather than a little coarser grit will serve to cut the acrylic faster - a sandpaper grit of maybe 100 would be good. It will take some time, however, so bore to the diameter that's closest to where the forward area of the grip will reside on the blank.

Make sure to blow it out well before test fitting or trapped particles will scratch your rod blank.

.......................

Thanks Tom,

The ones I have built so far seem tob reasonably light. I like the feel and the look is amazing. I am only making split grips to fit the Fuji SK2 seat.

Now here is something else you could do... Bore them out as large as you can - no taper. Core them with urethane foam and then quickly taper ream that. You save a lot of weight and it's easier to taper ream the urethane than the acrylic.

.................

Done lots of them them way Tom just described.

Be mindful that if you bore them out too much and the acrylic is somewhat translucent, the urethane foam core may be noticeable through the acrylic.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN