How many of you guys get a good finish in one coat? I always seem to see a few threads here or there still, especially on the foot of larger guides. Would be great to get it in one coat.

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

My experience is much like yours. Now and then I get it in one. I'd rather do two than use too much in one and get footballs

We always use 2, 3 on large rods.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

If using more than one coat as what stage do you apply a second coat - when the first coat is cured or while it's still tacky? is there any treatment to the first coat before applying further coats?
Thank you

I do the subsequent coats after the first has gone solid, not tacky. The party line on this is to do it within a few hours of the first coat, but with Pro Kote, it takes so long to harden that I think we are talkng the next day. If you wait days, then use a little burnishing of the first coat with an abrasive pad.

I think you'll get some more opinions on this one, so stay tuned.

I have put coats on old (cleaned up, burnished with pad) rod wraps without any problems, so I really don't think it is critical.

I wish I could do it it with just one coat, but I can't. I've given up even trying to do so.

Tom Kirkman has a very good article about finish, in which he states that the key is to find a procedure which produces results satisfactory to you. This is what I have done. My procedure is a combination of tips and tricks for several sources. I use both Flec Coat Lite and Threadmaster Lite.

With everything ready to go, I mix the finish, turn on my IR heat lamp to get warmed up , and then apply the finish. I have the belt removed from the wrapper motors, and turn the rod by hand while applying finish. In the time it takes me to get the guide wraps coated, about three minutes, the heat lamp is nice and warm.

I put the belt on the drier motor and start the rod turning. I place the heat lamp under each wrap for two revolutions. This helps with penetration and bubble release. The turn off the heat lamp, and place the brush gently against each wrap and remove most of the finish. I leave enough finish on the wraps to seal the threads. It takes only gentle pressure, and wiping the brush on a lint free towel between revolutions. This takes about 3 or 4 minutes. At that point I'm done with the first coat, and leave it turning.

If I put the first coat on in the morning, the second coat goes on the same evening. If I put the first coat on in the evening, the second coat goes on the next morning. Before applying the second coat, I will look it all over closely, and slice off any oddities.

For the second coat I use the same procedure up to brushing off the excess. I inspect each wrap, under strong light and 5X magnification, looking for problems, and fixing what ever I find. The whole thing takes about 5 minutes tops. At that point, I turn the rod by hand, 180 degrees each time, to let it level out. After about 45 minutes I put the belt on the drier motor, set it turning, and walk away from it.

There may be better ways to do this. Probably are. But this is what works for me.

To answer the original question, the time between coats is at least six hours, and could be up to ten hours. The finish left over on the foil is not what you would call tacky, but is not fully cured either. It can be dented with a fingernail.

Marc,
I use only one coat the majority of the time. I normally use Flex Coat high build.

But, now and then, a rod slips through where I will have to add a 2nd coat.

Marc

Your question was 1 vs 2 coats. I'm a 2 coat guy. Long ago I used Flex Coat high build and did just OK with 1 coat. But 2 coats of a medium or lite viscosity epoxy (I'm partial to the ProKote medium viscosity epoxy) results in far better and more consistent results for me. Those pesky nubs, stick ups and such are removed after the first coat, which is applied as thinly as possible. Thus I get two bites at the apple, so to speak, to eliminate any underlying imperfections.

Read somewhere that T&T now applies 2 coats of finish to their rods even though there is more labor cost.

Lots of folks do beautiful work with a single application of epoxy. I do much better with 2.

Marc,

With lighter build epoxies I don't think you can get away with just one coat, at least I have not been able to.

I have gotten away with just one coat using Prokote; but I had given the thread wraps 2 or 3 coats of Perma Gloss before applying the Prokote. When I use ProKote without first coating the wraps with Perma Gloss, I give the wraps a coat of Prokote, wait overnight for the first coat to dry and then apply a second coat the next day.

I just finished a rod using Threadmaster High Build and the warps came out great with just one coat.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Don
is correct - But _ on a slow 9 rpm turner which will not hold any thin finish because it turns so slow - But speed it up and you can hold more of the light finish But it is about the speed

Bill - willierods.com

I find that I need three coats, after the second coat I find that the threads at the edges are not fully covered. I use pro kote med build.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:54PM by John E Powell.

With a faster turner the edges come out straighter Plus ya need good light to see what you are doing

Bill - willierods.com

I cannot get a really good first coat with Flex Coat high build. I like two or even three thin coats.