For years I have struggled with getting my epoxy to come out perfect over the decal areas on my rods. I have tried thinning the epoxy, heating it gently, applying it at +/- 200 rpm, trying numerous brands of epoxy, and no matter which method tried or epoxy used, I most likely ended up with bumps and dips that had to be sanded and re-coated. I spent over $500 building a 4 rod drying cabinet with exhaust fan and still have not been happy with my results.

After rereading article in the Library entitled "A Better Epoxy Finish", ( for the 2nd or 3rd time) , I thought I would give it a try, after pulling out all my hair! I applied the epoxy, (Threadmaster High Build), and turned the rod 180 degrees every 2 mins for the first +/- 2 hours. I them went to rotating it 180 degrees ever 5 mins after about 2 1/2 hours. At 3 hours I put it into my drying cabinet at low speed rotation and the results were: Perfectly Smooth, Glass Like Finish!

Tom I could kiss you....if I was into that kind of thing!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/04/2016 10:01AM by Donald R Campbell.

good info!!! untill the kissing part

Glad you're not into that type of thing.

One thing I want to highlight and something that many took from the article by looking at the photos and not actually reading it, is that the article does NOT advocate putting on epoxy and then allowing it to droop to the bottom whereupon you "wick" it off. The article is quite clear that as soon as such a droop has formed, your problem has already begun.

It does mention that some builders do this, but only in an effort to fix the problem. At that point, it's the one thing than can save the process, but as the article points out, the best thing you can do is not put on excess finish to begin with.

...............

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:55PM by John E Powell.

Donald, I think your procedure would work if you turned it 180 every minute, wicking off excess with the brush 3 or 4 times, for a 1/2 hour. Then put it on the dryer. It works, excess epoxy or not.

Donald & Tom,
on long applications, like over decals.
how do you apply your epoxy. do you use perpendicular application while turning the rod, or do you apply it lengthwise ?
or can you use both ?

thx,

David,

On larger areas I apply the epoxy using a sable brush with longitudinal strokes and watching for any bare spots. I then rotate the rod about a 1/4 of a turn and apply epoxy to that area. After the epoxy has been applied to the entire circumference of the area, I gently brush the area with longitudinal stokes to remove any excess epoxy. I epoxy the decal area first, right after mixing the epoxy before it has started to setup.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I always do the decal area buy itself I do the guides then mix a new batch While turning I coat as a guide Then brush left to right not quite all the way to the end Then go the other way
If I think I have too much I stop then take off any drips Do a 180 several times to level the drips out Then start the turning again I turn at 50 rpm a good speed for applying and drying

Bill - willierods.com

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:55PM by John E Powell.

If you want to take the chance that it thicken good -- go for it

But I recommend either CP works but Fixative is a lot clearer and a spray

Bill - willierods.com

I agree with bill I do the decal on its own. I do lengthwise strokes. I do the 180 on the decal for 15 mins just to make sure there's no heavier spots. Then I put it on a 9 rpm dryer.

I agree with bill I do the decal on its own. I do lengthwise strokes. I do the 180 on the decal for 15 mins just to make sure there's no heavier spots. Then I put it on a 9 rpm dryer.

I agree with bill I do the decal on its own. I do lengthwise strokes. I do the 180 on the decal for 15 mins just to make sure there's no heavier spots. Then I put it on a 9 rpm dryer.