I read how this is generally done: scuff with scotch brite pad, write with gelly roll, spray w/ a krylon matte finish, then apply wipe on polyurethane.
My gel ink will NOT dry. Next day, you can just wipe it away with a paper towel, your finger, or anything else. it comes right off.
Any ideas what I am doing wrong or how I can fix the problem? I do prefer writing with the gel pens over testors and a ink pen.
Thanks,
Jim

You may need to try a different brand of gel pen.

As far as your application technique, I have never heard of overcoating with a wipe-on polyurethane. Most will overcoat with an epoxy. Some will even put down a coat of epoxy first, write on that, then overcoat.

..........

Thank you Tom.
here is the link where i read about coating with poly.
[globalflyfisher.com]

Seems legit! But i have to say, it does not appear I am even close to making it work!
Jim

There are many ways to do this. You'll have to decide which method provides the appearance you desire.

...............

I put down a coat of finish first, and then write over that. It works fro me and also with decals.

Try heating the ink to start it to dry Several times low heat I use a hair dryer
I use a Pentel metallic MED gel pen Found them on line but they should be in stores

Bill - willierods.com

Thank you for the responses. I have tried drying gently with heat gun, but that did not help. I am tending to think it is this run of gel pens I am using. I am going to get more brands and lots and try them out.. Too many people successfully do this for it to seem so impossible. The problem is not the appearance, it's that the ink will just rub right off as if it never dried. even after a day. It might be the formulation in this particular brand or lot.
Thanks again. If I find a good brand, I will let ya know. Jim

Bruce, after Tom's suggestion, i went to my bench and found (easily) plenty of spots of finish on the table top. I wrote on these and still it would not dry, even under the heat gun.

Got to be the pen

Bill - willierods.com

I have had really good luck with the Gelly Rollers in Metallic Silver, Metallic Gold, White and black. I am using a size Medium tip - not sure if they make others. I have not read the GFF article but I have been doing it the same way with no problems for the better part of ten years. So take it for what it is worth.

Typically I do a butt wrap / tiger wrap and put a coat of finish over that. Once that coat has set I then do my finishing wraps / trim bands and write my inscription. I do NOT scuff the finish as that tends to make the writing a little fuzzy edged and indistinct. Sometimes if you wait longer than 48 hrs to write the inscription, the finish is really hard / slick and the pen doesn't want to write. If that is the case, I wipe the inscription area with 90% IPA a few times (just use a wet paper towel square) and the finish gets sort of tacky. It will then cause the pen to write / take the ink very well.

I mess up about half of the time. So, I have another 2"x2" patch of paper towel wet with 90% IPA and simply wipe it right off if I make a mistake. I then redo it until it is perfect (or as perfect as it gets with my handwriting).

I normally let the ink dry for at least 8 hours before finishing, but have made do with a shorter interval in a pinch. Full disclosure - I have never 'wiped' the ink and tried to smudge it. For all I know it would wipe right off or smear. But I doubt it.

So that is all - just finish, ink, then finish. The rest are variables I find I don't need and only make it more difficult. Hope this helps - let me know if you have questions. Here is an example of what it looks like after the final finish coat(s).

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Rather than a gel pen, try using a quill and acrylic ink.

Easy to use and works very very well.

Let dry overnight and coat with epoxy thread coating at the same time that you coat your guide wraps.

[www.dickblick.com]

[www.walmart.com]

The acrylic inks work very well. They are water based so clean up with soap and water.

Be very diligent in cleaning the pen. If you don't keep the pen clean the ink won't flow properly.

Be safe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2015 11:35AM by roger wilson.

Jim - I'm using the technique you are describing with good sucess. My experience has been that the Gelly Roll pens, especially the white, dry quickly (< 1 hour); when removing ink from a blank they flake off rather than smudge off. As mentioned earlier, it might be the pen you are using Other art pens I've tried have not worked as well as the authentic Gelly Rolls.

I'm applying finish to any thread wraps that adjoin the inscription area, but not the insription area. Once cured, I inscribe (and like Bill above, I don't scuff the area), wait for script to dry, then apply at least 3 coats of Krylon Workable Fixative after masking off the thread finish areas. Remove masking once final coat of fixative is dry, and apply wipe-on poly with cheesecloth. i apply the poly on the rod turner at about 30 rpms. I'm applying a couple of coats, and it's important that a coat completely dry before adding another coat. Once dry, I resume my thread wrap finish on those areas. The results are very nice to me....a break in the thread finish areas with the inscription area protected yet minimal in appearance.

I've also applied thread finish over a Gelly Roll inscription (no poly treatment) without using the fixative with no smudging or other issues. Since finding those pens, I've stopped using the quills and Testors or acrylic ink. Good luck with your efforts!

I have a roll pen an after doing a little playing, it takes a long time for the ink to set up so it won't smug
like a 2 or 3 day's

William Sidney
AK

One of the reasons that I prefer the Acrylic inks is that the cure time is very quick.

I can letter a dozen rods, and go back to the first one and start putting finish on the rods with no issue on the writing.

Be safe

Thank you to all responders. Everything was helpful. In the end, i ordered several brands online, and tested them out. I think there is probably a lot of lot and individual variation. But this is what i found (gold)
Pentel Sunburst: slow drying, smeared fairly easily (may have dried if given longer than ~1hour)
Pentel Slicci: thin line, slow discharge, but OK. Dried well.
Uniball impact 1.0 mm: worked best. Nice color, flowed as well as Gelly Roll, set up in an hour easily. I used this one to write on the blank. turned out pretty well.
G2 pilot did not flow well.

It's just strange that the one pen that wasn't recommended turned out the best for me. I think the best bet is to try different ones, and don't count on one that worked well for someone else to work well for you! unless you are in their shop using that actual pen!
Thanks again to all. JIm J

The Pentel sunburst does dry Just add a little heat and more time I always hit after dry with fixative spray also helps to not smear

Bill - willierods.com