I use the FG for my braid to floro and mono. . .the leader breaks 100% of the time before the knot and when tied right never hangs up

I think we have all read about the FG knot. I suggest y'all check out Paulus site for another "source". I have no dog in this race. Use whatever works for you. Trust what you can verify.

To me, the difference between knots is smaller than the difference between repeatable results across different anglers.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="[www.youtube.com]; frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Not sure if the link will work but this one has worked great for me

The best knot is crazy ALBERTO "knot :

[www.youtube.com]

Miles -

I'm a knot / rigging junkie and have spent a lot of time trying to figure this out as braid to fluoro is what I fish most of the time both saltwater and freshwater. I know it is overkill for some but I have pulled a lot of knots to failure with a good scale and all of my experience doing that zeroed me in on the best knots based on actual wet and dry breaking strength. These may be overkill but properly executed they are consistently the strongest in my personal experience.

Also equally important, these knots seem to last well in actual fishing conditions. By that I mean fishing the same knot for days at a time without failure. So, I tested them to pick them out and then have put them through it in the field - so this is not just a science experiment.

If you need to tie a fairly simple knot - either at night or because you just aren't good with knots - try the Red Phillips knot. It is a very good knot, very compact, passes guides better than most and is an 80%+ join.

If you can execute a more complex knot, the FG knot is both the strongest and the best for passing through guides. It is a 100% join. On a recent trip to Venice, LA we put more than 3 dozen yellowfin tuna in the boat over four days on one FG knot with no problems...these fish ranged from 30# to 145#. The FG knot works.

There are youtube videos that demonstrate both. I hope this helps.

Bill

I second what Jean said, I've used the Crazy Alberto Knot for the past three years with no problems.

This could go on forever, but there are so many variables in technique, line quality, pound test differences that may work differently on some knots than on others, that there is no one correct answer to the "best knot question." Try a few of the favorites, and see what works for you.

I can't thank everyone enough for their input. There is enough information given that I can test different knots and see what I prefer the most.

Thank you everyone for your input!

I'd be curious to know what kind of fluorocarbon is being used, as I've never had a problem with the leader breaking at the braid, and I use back to back Uni knots as the connecting knot. Some fluorocarbons, such as the Vanish that Michael mentioned, and Seaguar Inviz X, are very temperamental when it comes to knots.

Another possibility could be that the braid side of the Uni knot is slipping, thereby pinching the fluorocarbon. I use at least 8 turns when tying the Uni knot with braid. And I actually use the Uni knot for all of my connections except for when I am using a drop shot rig. IMO you can't beat the Uni knot for ease of tying, and I've never broken a fish off using it.

Not to open this back up again but I was thinking the same thing. Not all fluorocarbons are created equal. I have had much better luck with the dedicated leader material products than the stuff sold as running line for spooling reels.

For example, the Vanish sold on large spools for filling reels is NOT the same as the Vanish sold as leader material on 25 meter spools. My experience is that the leader material - while more expensive - is vastly superior for the application you are using. The Vanish 20 lb sold in large spools is very soft.

I've been using Inviz X....

Trying a different brand is one of the things I'm going to try.

To clarify, I've not had FC problems with double unis, only with knots like the Alberto and Albright that fold the FC so sharply. I mentioned it to point out one of the multitude of variables that make finding the "perfect" or "best" knot impossible. There are, in my opinion, knots that are better for some materials than others, better for some tyers than others, better for some braids than others, better for some techniques than others. . I noted the other day a video in which the tyer recommended scraping the braid with a fingernail before tying the knot. To remove the coating. I had never seen that recommended before. Another variable? By the way, I spent all day yesterday fishing with an FG knot that has had a couple other days on the water before yesterday, and it took about 20 smallies and a yesterday 10+ pound sheepshead. And it looks like new.

I'm with you, Michael. The FG works.

Miles, I feel pretty confident in saying that your problem lies in the InvisX. I am a huge fan of fluorocarbon line as a main line, and in particular, Seaguar fluorocarbon lines. And while I know there may be many people that use InvisX and find it to be a good line, I personally think it's one of, if not the worst fluorocarbon line I've ever used.

At the time I used it, I was looking for a fluorocarbon line that would handle well on spinning gear. And InvisX does handle better on spinning gear than the majority of fluorocarbon lines, but other than that, well ......... As I mentioned earlier I found it to be extremely temperamental when it came to tying knots. It's very stretchy and therefore lacks in sensitivity when compared to most of the fluorocarbon lines I've tried.

In reading tests on fluorocarbon lines, it's also one of the fluorocarbon lines that absorbs a lot of water and therefore loses a lot of strength. I didn't find it to be very abrasion resistant when fresh on the spool and like nylon mono filament line, once it absorbed water, it became even less abrasion resistant. A small diameter line that isn't abrasion resistant spells doom.

I realize this thread is about leaders, but if anyone is looking for an excellent fluorocarbon line to use as a main line, be it spinning or casting gear, they would do themselves a big favor if they gave Seaguar's Tatsu fluorocarbon line a try. It's an outstanding line with outstanding knot strength and abrasion resistance. And while it stretches more than lines like Sunline Shooter (the most sensitive fluorocarbon line I've ever used) or Toray Super Hard, it has very good sensitivity. It's pricey, but worth every penny. And it is absolutely the best fluorocarbon line I have ever used on spinning gear.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/06/2015 07:57AM by David Baylor.

Tony C Robinson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The FG knot is hands down the best braid to leader
> knot. I use it down to 8# FC and I have never, I
> repeat never had a properly tied one fail. I knew
> about the FG for years, but all the instructional
> videos were from offshore salt fishing where they
> were using like 100# leaders. Those vids show you
> weaving the braid around a very stiff leader, but
> that doesn't work with 8# FC. It wasn't until I
> saw a video on "Salt Strong" that I saw how to
> weave the thin leader around tensioned braid and
> have it pop out perfectly. Check this one out.
> [www.saltstrong.com]
> The only thing I had to figure out in the
> beginning that isn't emphasized enough in the
> video is that as your braid stack builds up, you
> have to keep it tightly packed together. If you
> don't, when you go to fully tighten it, the first
> part of the weave stack will tighten and the slack
> in the far part of the stack will still be there.
>
> If you want a really bomber knot, pinch the FC
> tag with your thumbnail just as it goes into the
> braid stack and cut it out about 1 or 2 mm from
> the pinch. Then hit that with a lighter while you
> are still pinching it (to protect the braid) to
> create a small ball on the tag of the FC.
> This is a great knot. it will go through any
> guide and it is silent and vibration free. Try it!


This is the best advice I could offer in regards to the FG knot. I also use it with light braid and a light FC leader and wrapping the braid around the leader is the only way I have been able to get that knot to work due to the light line. That being said, I did find it harder to make that knot work with more flexible lines, even 10# Invizx was a challenge. Does the knot need to go through micro guides? If not, try an Alberto. That knot is also very, very strong, and still pretty small once tied.

I have started touching the end of the FC with a lighter to make a little "ball" of FC at the point where the smooth end would normally be. Probably just in my head but the braided braid seems less likely to slide off the end of the FC with that "ball" there. Never had a fail since I started doing it.

I do the same - I ball the FC as well as singe the end of the braid after my final serve or closing knot. I have never had an FG fail, but I have had the half hitches and final serve come loose after hard use if I don't singe it.

I've had the half hitches come loose as well but I wanted to see if the knot would fail without them so I fished it a few more hours. I didn't loose the lure but the knot did look a little beat up compared to another FG that was fished for a similar amount of time that day.

When you say you ball up the FC, what do you mean exactly...? Do you tie a simple granny knot and then slide the braid wraps down to it?

Sorry Adam - that may not have been clear enough. I mean I heat the end of the FC ever so gently (while pinching all the rest of the line / knot in my fingers to protect it) to ball the end just a bit. Specifically, I tie the knot in this sequence:

1) complete all of your wraps to build the FG knot (usually 20) and cinch them tightly and compress them together lengthwise
2) two alternating half hitches over both the FC and the standing braid
3) cut and very gently / lightly ball the FC
4) continue with alternating half hitches around both the FC and the standing braid until you run out of room and butt up against the FC ball (usually 2 - 4 more half hitches)
5) 4 alternating half hitches around the standing braid only
6) 6 turn serve / finishing knot (like you'd use when serving a bowstring or finishing a Bimini Twist); basically a whip finish if you are a fly tier
7) trim braid tag and singe carefully with lighter while protecting the knot and standing line by pinching it in your fingers (shielding it).

It is important to note that I am using very little heat to get just a minimal effect - not scorching it like a blowtorch. I normally hold the lighter still in a vertical position and move the tags sideways into range until I get the effect I am looking for.

The original FG knot was simply 2 - 4 half hitches over both the FC and standing braid followed by 2 - 4 half hitches around the standing braid only with a careful trim of the FC and braid tags. And I've never had one fail that way so it is obviously not required. But I want them really smooth and tapered and like you point out above when they are finished cleanly they really fish well for a long, long time. So to me it is worth the extra 60 seconds of effort. The only downside I can see to this method is that the knot is a touch longer, but most of that length is braid only and it is very flexible.

Jean Scurtu Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The best knot is crazy ALBERTO "knot :
>
> [www.youtube.com]
> e=player_embedded&noredirect=1

I have to agree with Jean also. The Crazy Alberto knot is strong, extremely reliable and passes through even micro guides easier than any of the other knots I have tied.

The knot was developed by Alberto Nie (well known and respected striper fisherman) and you can see a video of how he ties it at this site [www.youtube.com].

John Allgood