Hello Builders,

My name is Trevor and I am looking to build my first rod this winter. It is going to be for personal use and will be my first, hopefully quality, rod. A friend of mine has gotten me into bass fishing over the last year and I have a casting rod that gets me by, however I am using my trout rod when finesse fishing and would like to step it up to something a little more substantial. I assembled what I think will make a good rod and was wondering if anyone could give it a glance over and see if I missed anything or offer advice on the quality of the parts.

The parts list so far looks like this:
MHX 7' MF High Mod Rod
Daiwa Exceler 3000
Fuji SKM Ultra Light Skeleton Reel Seat (I like skeleton but do you lose sensitivity?)
MHX WinnDry Grips (Anyone use these? Performance vs Cork? Love my Winns on my golf clubs)

Using Fuji GPS I came up with these as guides:
BLGAT 4.5 - 5 TipTop
BKTAG 4.5J Runners (5)
BKLAG 5.5M
BKLAG 10H
BKLAG 20H

Trying not to break the bank with this one but have a really nice rod in the end. Thank you in advance for any input you can provide.

-Trevor

Trevor, it reads as if you're going to have a nice performing rod. I just started building rods this past year, and built two spinning rods using the Fuji GPS software ..... they cast extremely well. Far better than any of my factory spinning rods.

I don't really know that you'll lose any discernible amount of sensitivity by using a skeleton reel seat with I assume a cork insert, over a full graphite tube type reel seat. I know nothing of the Winn grips. My thinking is that they may weigh a bit more than cork or EVA. But if they do it's probably not much more, and the added weight could help with having a balanced rod and reel combination.

As far as the guides all I'd say is that I would order a BKBAG in 4.5 and use it as your choke guide. The BKB is a belly guide and has a wider foot than the BKT. Fuji recommends using the BKB as a belly guide because of it's wider foot. I'd also order at least one additional running guide along with the belly guide.

The two spinning rods I built are 6'6" rods and after using static loading to place the runners, I ended up with 9 guides total, plus the tip top. (3 reduction guide, 1 belly guide, and 5 running guides) You may find that 5 runners isn't enough to have the line follow the curve of the blank as closely as you may want it to. As the two rods I built are both medium light power, I wanted the line to follow the curve of the blank as closely as possible, to gain a bit of power in the upper half of the rod.

Thanks David!

I had intended to build a masking tape arbor under each half of the reel seat. Thanks for the tips on the guides, better to spend an extra few dollars to not have to reorder and stop half way in a project. Just for clarification do you suggest adding a belly guide AND A 6th running or just the belly guide IN ADDITION to the 5 currently on my build.

-Trevor

Tevor, I'd add the belly guide and a 6th running guide. The cost is minimal compared to needing to order another guide or two if you find you need them. And rod building is addicting. ..... you'll end up using any extra guides eventually. As far as a masking tape arbor under the one hood on a skeleton seat. I wouldn't think that would be a good idea. I'd want the reel foot resting on something a bit more substantial.

I'm sure someone else will post their thoughts. But it's not something I would do.

Trevor - I agree with David's helpful tips. Do use 1- 2 KB guides and maybe an extra running guide depending on the static stress test. The KR concept guide set up performs extremely well; you will be happy with it. Rather than tape use either the graphite or polyurethane arbors; they are both light and sensitive. Do not forget the winding checks for the SK reel seat, they are used to hide the arbors. There are varous types of checks that are used for 16 & 17 reel seats and come in aluminum or vinyl/rubber. You need to know the blank dimensions at the points where the checks are needed so you can order the appropriate checks. The dimensions at various points along the blank are given at MHX website. The vinyl/rubber checks will stretch and thus are easier to use. I have been using Winn grips over the past year and they are great, people that use them love them. What is model of the blank you are ordering? Hope this helps.
Norm

I just looked at a recent E-mail flyer from mudhole concerning their new foam core carbon fiber inserts that can be used as a sleeve/spacer for SK reel seats. This will eliminate the need for reel seat checks, and they look pretty sharp. Since they are so new I have not tried them yet, but I plan to do so in the near future. They are a little expensive though.
Norm

Thanks guys!

I'll be ordering a few extra guides. I planned to go with the HM-SJ843 but am considering just the standard SJ843 as the weight difference is negligible but the cost is 2/3rds. I understand I may lose some sensitivity but at my level of fishing I'm not sure I would take full advantage of the difference anyways. Is the "CFX Carbon Fiber Reel Seat Inserts" what you're talking about with the new inserts? They look great but I think I prefer the section between clear and will go with Fuji Graphite Arbors.

-Trevor

Trevor if you are looking to maintain as much sensitivity as possible do not use tape. Go with graphite arbors or for your best option for maintaining feel type sensitivity-use a seat that fits snug to blank.

While the Wynn grips are an option, look good, have the cool look effect, feel good to the hand, ECT.

If you are looking to keep your rod as sensitive as possible? They are the last thing I would use!. Anything rubberized is going to dampen/kill vibration. If you go with Wynn grips? It doesn't mater much what you use for reel seat as you will have already eliminated most you what creates sensitivity to start with (vibrations).
The same reason rubberized Wynn type grips are use on golf clubs (to lesson/isolate the vibrational shock of hitting the ball 300 yards) is the same reason not to use them on a rod where feel sensitivity is important. They will have the same effect.

Trevor;
99.9% of what I build are bass rods, and if a client requested Wynn grips I would convince him other wise or send him to another who might be willing to accommodate his request.
I would rather not have his business then to build a rod which will not function to its full built potential .

Cork is a good option with graphite grips being your best.
But in the case of you just starting to build, they (graphite grips) may be a little hard to work with



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 01:37PM by Steve Gardner.

Steve,

Thanks for that post. It was very informative and makes sense as to why I love my Winn grips on my clubs so much. I was apprehensive of using them for that reason.

-Trevor

Thanks everyone who contributed great information. Things changed along the way as they always do, but I've order the bits I'm happy about and confident with. I will come back to this post with the finished product. Wish me tight threads and a smooth finish!

For a little more than the price of the Winn grips, Mudhole does sell CFX foam core graphite fiber grips. They are brand new at mudhole, and I recently bought a few to try. I just put a split grip set on a casting rod I am currently building; they look and feel really good. They ream easier than the Winn grips so are not difficult to install. According to Steve they might be a more sensitive alternative for you.
Norm

Norm I ended up going with tried and true cork. I don't feel I'll be missing out and I think keeping it simple on the first go is a good idea.

-Trevor

Good idea, cork is always a good tried and true choice! Cannot go wrong with it. I build most of my rods with cork, just recently been playing with the Winn grips, which have been very popular and well received. Now starting to try the foam core graphite fiber grips. One thing I have found out over the years is there are different strokes for different folks. Good luck with your build, I am sure you will be pleased with it.
Norm

Trevor, I realize you're already ordered at least some or all of your components, but there is something may want to consider about the type of reel seat you're planning on using. It's something I would have mentioned in my most recent post, but as I was typing it, my dad pulled up for our weekly going out to breakfast thing.

What I should have mentioned then and is something you'll want to consider is with a spinning rod, depending on how you hold the rod, your reel hand isn't going to be contacting the blank. The butt of your palm will be on the rear grip on top of the rod, your fingers will be split around the stem of the reel, and your fingers will be contacting the reel's foot. That means two things when using a skeleton seat as a split reel seat, or an actual split reel seat on a spinning rod.

One, it means that you're not going to gain sensitivity via hand contact with the blank, and two ...... it means that the diameter of the reel seat is going to be smaller and could actually result in some discomfort in holding the rod. Personally, other than weight savings in the reel seat, or it looking cool, I don't see the point of a split reel seat for a spinning rod. Don't get me wrong, any weight you can save is going to increase sensitivity, but you don't get the same benefit that you would if you were using a split or exposed blank reel seat, on a casting rod.

I used Forecast skeleton reel seats with woven graphite inserts on the two spinning rods I mentioned building earlier, I mounted them using foam arbors. They're quite sensitive, have an O.D. that makes them very comfortable to hold, and the woven graphite gives them a bit of looking cool. Mud Hole doesn't carry Forecast components, but Utmost Enterprises (one of the site sponsors on the left of this page) does. It's something you may want to look into for this build. or perhaps for a future build.


One last thing, and believe me, I know it's hard to do. But if you can fight being in a rush to get this first build done, you may find that you'll be happier with the finished product in the long run. When you get your blank and components, use tape to build up arbors where you'll be mounting the reel seat. Put it on the rod and mount your reel in it. You may have to get a little creative with tape and such to keep it in place to tighten down the reel. but you're going to want that reel mounted to see if you like the feel of a split seat on a spinning rod. You want to be sure before you start gluing things up.

I rushed my first build because I needed the rod to fish a tournament, but if I wouldn't have been in a rush I would have sent the blank I built the rod on back for a replacement because of some cosmetic issues I had with the blank. I love the way the rod performs, and while the cosmetic blemishes probably wouldn't be noticed by most people ..... I know they're there.

It's one of those "I wish I would have done things different" kind of things.

I'm sure you'll have fun with the build and like it or not ....... you are going to be officially addicted to rod building. lol



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 10:36PM by David Baylor.