I just fit the birch handle that I made onto the blank. I have a great fit and now its time for me to think about finish. I do not mind a darkening of the wood, I do not however, want a glossy finish. Any suggestions/insight are greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Arnot,

Here is a picture of a couple of ice rods I built with birch bark handles. I used 10 coats of pure tung oil on them. Not a "tung oil finish like Formby's which is a blend. I was hoping to get a shiny finish but was never able to even though the I polished them on the lathe..

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Here is the rod I'm working on now. I'll have more photos in a few days when it's done. The picture shows the handle which uses some birch bark. This was finished with a CA finish. I like the way it turned out. Very glossy and comfortable to hold. I'l be using the CA finish a lot more in the future.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Wet wood and sand lightly w/320. 6:1 spit coat, dewaxed, two coats. Satin spar polyurethane thined 50/50 first coat 75/25 for all others.

I used multiple coats of Tru Oil until I got the gloss I wanted.

Steve,

I was thinking pure tung oil might be what I was after and after seeing your pictures, I think that is the way to go. Someone else mentioned teak oil but I am unfamiliar with it. I was originally thinking true oil, but the final finish is too glossy. I want ZERO shine, just warm wood tones.

Did you thin the first coat of tung oil to help it penetrate into the wood?

Thank you everyone for the comments!

Here's a birch set that I did, w/ 1 coat of TruOil rubbed in. Almost a matte finish.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

No intent to hi-jack thread but want to let others know my experience with CA. Did a bunch of grips and handles using CA a couple years ago and I thought it was great. Quick dry, multiple coats and handle ready to go right away. Found out after a year or two that the finish can crack badly, very badly.

One person I know who is a pen turner has had the same thing happen to some of his work as well.

Personally, I avoid CA and use other methods.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

I did thin the first coat 50/50.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Chad,

That's interesting about the finish cracking. I know a lot of pen turners that swear by it and don't have that problem.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Chad is exactly correct on the CA cracking over time. It does work fine for pens, as they are not usually exposed to the elements that a reel seat or grip is. I turn hundreds of inserts a year and started with CA until the problem of cracking and water getting into some of the cracks and under the finish and discoloring the insert.

Ron Weber

Well Arnot, I guess I'll retract my suggestion for a CA finish. My handles are already turned and finished and I'm going with them. Maybe I'll just use that rod sparingly.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Couple of coats of Cabots danish oil wipe off excess between coats.Simple and easy and great results.

cheers

Ray Balmforth
Figtree
NSW
Australia

I also had great results with CA and loved the look of it. As with every one else down the road was an issue, cracking was caused by UV exposure. What are the chances of a fishing rod being exposed to UV though? I've been using a polyurethane from General Finishes that works well for a gloss finish and you can polish it out for a smooth finish.

Mark,
I hope that the polyurethane is UV resistant. An awful lot of this type finish work well inside but don't hold up to the rays of the sun when used out of doors.

Be saft

As Roger mentions, many finishes, especially Danish Oil for for "INTERIOR USE" not appropriate for outdoor exposure.

Mark, sun light is full of UV rays!

I have a number of salwater rods with birch grips and have used danish oil with no effects.You can always give them a light sand with some wet and dry
and recoat if necessary.It will give the finish Arnot has asked for.

cheers

Ray Balmforth
Figtree
NSW
Australia

Thanks for all the comments. Seems there is more than one way to skin a cat. My next concern is the rubberized cork on the handle. Should I put the finish onto it as well, or avoid that area. Seems to me that the finish would not penetrate those areas and stay tacky.

Beautiful grip Arnot. Danish oil is beautiful on burl and rubberized cork. Also makes a nice, slightly amber tinted sealant for natural cork.

jay mcknight Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Beautiful grip Arnot. Danish oil is beautiful on
> burl and rubberized cork. Also makes a nice,
> slightly amber tinted sealant for natural cork.


+1 on that. Really nice work on the grip.

Arnot,
where did you source your birtch rings?

Tom