After much trial and error this is the method I use to virtually eliminate the visible edges on a decal used for Custom fishing rods using the PEARLabel 270 & 360 printers. If you need additional information just let me know.
1. Print decal. Using scissors trim as close as possible to the letters/object. Very sharp scissors are a must to ensure a clean precise cut. The goal is to remove as much of the material surrounding the decal as possible without compromising the letters/object. Do not score/cut the decal backing with the supplied tool; leave backing on, this will be removed in step 5.
2. Prior to decal placement on blank, place a thin coat of finish where decal will be placed, let cure completely. I have used Flexcoat and ProKote with good results.
3. Obtain clear “mild tack” transfer tape and place on TOP of trimmed decal. Press decal into transfer tape to ensure decal is adhered to tape completely; leave paper backing on for now.
4. After finish has cured and just prior to decal placement, warm the finish slightly with a heat gun or blow dryer, use caution, only a few seconds is adequate, do not “cook” the finish.
5. Now remove decal paper backing. A slight bend in the transfer tape will cause backing to pull from decal. Use tweezers for backing removal, do not touch decal adhesive. Carefully place decal in desired location and roll decal/transfer tape to embed decal in warm finish, I use a Brayer roller. CAUTION: Be precise in decal placement and work slowly. Once decal contacts finish it is nearly impossible to remove and reposition. In the event that decal has to be removed due to placement error, removal of decal adhesive from finish is difficult. Goof Off used gently on a lint free coffee filter has worked best for removal. Alcohol was ineffective but can be used as a final wipe once adhesive was removed.
6. Gently remove transfer tape. A gentle wipe of the decal edges with rubbing alcohol is all that is needed to remove any adhesive that has been pressed out during the rolling step, use a lint free coffee filter for this.
7. Coat decal with your favorite finish.

Pat,

Good procedure and I have two questions.

1- What brand and where do you obtain the transfer tape? When I've looked for it in the past I've only found it in large size or large quantities.
2- I've been pretty successful using Scotch brand MATTE FINISH REMOVABLE TAPE (not regular Scotch tape)

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

I obtained the transfer tape from Larry Tobin at LRT group, his company is the one selling the printers.

Pat Barnard

I use scotch brand clear tape. It doesn't leave behind any glue after I burnish the edges. I'm always looking for better ways to build. What's the difference in scotch and transfer tape?

Never used the scotch tape. The transfer tape is thicker and easier to handle and can be used multiple times. The type I have has grid lines to aid in precise placement. The low tack feature is a plus as well.

Pat

To all my PEARLabel clients. On your next order for labeling tape, I will include at no charge, 2 types of Clear Reusable material. It should last you 6 months or more. I sell the rolls in my sign division but I will start cutting off some for your group. The rolls are 300' long so I have plenty of material.

Larry Tobin
LRT Group, Inc.
www.lrtgroup.com
larry@lrtgroup.com
954-257-6224

Thanks for the tips Pat! I will definitely give this a shot, looking forward to having better results with my decals.

Thanks again, Bob

Thanks Pat i will be giving this ago next build.The visible edge has been driving me crazy.

cheers....ray

Ray Balmforth
Figtree
NSW
Australia

I know the feeling. I guess I am to anal. I have done several rods without trimming and got the edge on the top and bottom of the decal, even after applying a coat of finish first. But once you trim the excess the edges are virtually invisible. Hope it works for you.

Pat